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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

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Janez Seliškar15. 02. 2015 10:44:53
Small and Big Rep are formed and climbed. Under Big one you can hear water gurgling. On top of both there is a bit of dry, unconsolidated snow.
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Album link:
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https://picasaweb.google.com/100644662296084998065/SlapovaVRepovemKotu14022015#
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JusAvgustin16. 02. 2015 17:01:51
Good conditions in Begunjščica. Direct and Right gully are super formed.
Creak-creak1
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janez.novak16. 02. 2015 17:20:20
What are conditions on Šentanc for hiker with crampons - thanks for reply.
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Viper16. 02. 2015 17:24:19
Upper part of Šentanc pure ice, crampons necessary.
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JusAvgustin16. 02. 2015 17:39:06
This doesn't belong under this topiczmeden
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Keko16. 02. 2015 23:22:45
Yesterday my wife and I and two more colleagues went to Maltatal to climb some icefall before the thaw takes them. We decided for the shorter and easier Dreifaltigkeitsfall, as for my wife and me it was only the second icefall ever and first this year. Since I climbed the icefall for the first time on lead, it was a completely new experience for me. It also turned out the icefall wasn't quite easy, as the more experienced team with us took it with full seriousness. In the second pitch the steepness exceeded 80 degrees and the first pitch was quite vertical too. At the top my calves were already burning pretty badly, as they're not used to such strains.
Some icefalls around there are still quite well formed. Icefalls facing the sun are mostly without ice already.
even the highest peaks almost without snow1
leaders of the first ropes already almost at the top2
quite serious steepness3
second in the rope also hurries to the top4
then it's my turn5
and wife behind me6
just boldly strike7
then a careful descent from the overhanging rock8
in the middle of the abseil9
we also check out the waterfalls above the tunnel10
nicely made11
this one is nice too12
side tunnel13
the tunnel without a headlamp can be dangerous as it overhangs and is icy in places14
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Dr.ejči17. 02. 2015 21:32:46
Also my pictorial material on yesterday's conditions in Direct and Right Gully.
One of the jumps in the Direct Gully.1
In the middle sector conditions are top.2
The exit chimney of the Direct is rather wet.3
One of the jumps in the Right Gully.4
Štamfarija is rather wet.5
Before the hardest detail... the pitch is almost vertical and partially iced.6
We belay each other over it.7
IV.8
Above the pitch conditions are still great for a while.9
The upper exit sector is again crumbly-wet.10
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Hammond18. 02. 2015 11:22:55
The Direct is actually Poni?
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JusAvgustin18. 02. 2015 12:48:24
No, the direct is actually direct. Poni is more to the left.
1
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Hammond18. 02. 2015 15:28:01
thanks.
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knap422720. 02. 2015 07:17:06
On Wednesday we climbed the Central icefall under Prisojnik, which is excellently formed and nicely ''holed''. The other icefalls are also well formed, only the right one in the candle is still a bit short. We were alonevelik nasmeh, obviously the extended approach does its thing. Best, Matej
At first still some fog which later clears1
Start2
Already above the hardest part3
4
5
6
Descent by abseil7
Conditions excellent8
Interesting tunnel9
10
Ice candle on the right11
Descent on Vršič road with nice views, huts unfortunately closed12
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JusAvgustin20. 02. 2015 07:59:47
Bravo!
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Janez Seliškar20. 02. 2015 19:52:37
The Lower Ledinski icefall is well formed in the 1st pitch. The second pitch, i.e. pillar, is full of holes in the middle and sprays quite well from the top.
Today we were too short for it, so two ice screws and systems were left in it.

I recommend it, but not necessary!
There was quite some traffic1
Start2
Good belay in the pillar3
We rappel down4
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JusAvgustin28. 02. 2015 08:18:31
Yesterday I climbed Zeleniško route with Andrej and Marijan. Already on the approach I tired them out properly, since we had to wade up to our waists. All wind-blown snow landed under the wall, anyway however you've trampled it. In the route, first pitch except one dry detail is flat to bypass, over second step ice ribbon is made. Then there's the third little step, which isn't as innocent as it looks at first glance. We tackled it on the left side, due to peg in the wall and good belay for friend on top. Then just routine to the top via gully to NW ridge. Ridge we found untouched and on locally wind-scoured ridge we headed to Veliki vrh Begunjščice. In gentle gullies of Begunjščica there's unprocessed snow which can greatly hinder progress.
The day promises well1
Entry into Rožičevo, which was allegedly already skied this year...2
In the Zeleniški route3
Above the last jump4
Exit gully5
In the sun...6
Exit hard and frozen7
Snapshot from the ridge8
Fog everywhere, fog around us...9
Descent via Centralni10
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jedriličar28. 02. 2015 08:24:00
Juš wrote everything nicely, I'll add some pics up there, just for scale. Otherwise it was an exceptionally nice day, alone in the wall, no one to hear around, we just trampled enough for the whole year ahead ... mežikanje
Upper avalanche deposit and view into the central gully, here you sink up to your knees...1
When you turn right against the direction, you sink to the balls and more... lucky we had ratrak service with us...2
Towards the entry into the route...3
Juš below the entry into the route, it took us 3 hours from the parking lot to here, officially you ride in an hour and a half...4
The track is made, so I go ahead...5
The start of the route can be nicely ice-climbed...6
And the first little jump in the first pitch, purely for warming up...7
Juš attacks the second jump...8
When climbing second it's much easier...9
Above the second jump, view down...10
View back from the third stance...11
That jump though was key in the whole route...12
But Juš solved it with ease...13
For me and Andrej it was much easier...14
Above the third jump...15
Then further it was just trudging... we left that to Andrej...16
Here and there was a bit of hard and icy snow...17
But overall wading up to the knees and beyond, up to the balls...18
Exit, finally in the sun... view down to Zelenica...19
On Može...20
Need to pack the ropes...21
And then along the NW ridge to the top, then descent via the central valley...22
View of the route from the ridge...23
On the NW ridge...24
Exit chimney below the summit of Begunjščica...25
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ljubitelj gora28. 02. 2015 08:27:54
You write about wading, what about avalanche danger?
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dolenjka&primorc28. 02. 2015 08:32:49
Bravo, you three mežikanje
Aha, Canon is back velik nasmeh
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jedriličar28. 02. 2015 09:40:53
LG, down on panel officially 2 is lit, rest everyone decides themselves on terrain ... mežikanje
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Viper1. 03. 2015 17:00:43
Today climbed Direktno and Desno grapo in Begunjščica. On steeper parts crampons hold well, in between in gully it keeps sinking to knees. After Desno grapo continued on NW ridge to top of Begunjščica.
Entry pitch into Direktna grapa, which is well formed1
2
Here I continued right across the wall to the top of Begunjščica3
Entry pitch into Desna grapa, which is also super formed, everything holds4
Even closer the entry pitch5
6
Here too it sank nicely up to the knees7
The hardest pitch in Desni grapi8
In the gully immediately above the drop9
10
11
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ljubitelj gora1. 03. 2015 22:11:30
Some more of my today's pics above Zelenica, 3 gullies and total 4 peaks over 2k. Since midday partial fog, tough on Zelenjak and Palec.
https://plus.google.com/photos/114400986607884783562/albums/6121298806182555265
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