Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
|
| JusAvgustin8. 03. 2015 12:32:31 |
Today Matej and I climbed Rožičeva in Begunjščica. Bottom step dry, further squeak-squeak.
| (+4) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar8. 03. 2015 12:37:18 |
Bravo ...
Nice entry chimney ....
|
|
|
|
| Viper8. 03. 2015 16:37:23 |
Today through Zeleniško route, which is quite poorly formed. In the route there are three pitches that are pretty serious, especially the third pitch, where you gotta be quite careful, especially if you're not roped. On the pitches there's some snow, ice where crampons often didn't hold, so had to hook crampons behind the rock.
| (+10) | | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin8. 03. 2015 17:18:57 |
Wow, such a difference not even 10 days ago... Congrats on the solo without 
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Janez Seliškar10. 03. 2015 20:37:39 |
Sinji icefall is still in very good shape. At the start of the first pitch some spindles, in the third pitch some water drops and excellent ice.
| (+3) | | |
|
|
|
|
| 1mitjas13. 03. 2015 13:58:30 |
Yesterday at Jezersko there was surprisingly no crowd. Given the state of the icefalls (all standing, all were climbed yesterday) it somewhat surprised Igor and me, but we didn't complain about the solitude in Teranova.
The route is well formed, there's a bit more ice than in good winters, but overall not any harder because of it. During climbing a soloist overtook us, who in the meantime did both Ledinca, and on descent we saw him in Vikijeva sveča too.
Wind spiced up the approach and descent, since there's almost no crust, but in the route it left us more or less alone.
Pics: http://gorski.vodnik.alpinizem.net/blog/
| (+5) | | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin13. 03. 2015 18:10:04 |
In Lenuhova there are candles. If anyone wants to go, now is the right time, because it's really a walk...
|
|
|
|
| Daaam13. 03. 2015 18:13:06 |
But Lenuhova is never a walk... If you're already luring the hribi.net crowd...
| (+7) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Viper13. 03. 2015 20:14:59 |
Maybe it's not quite a walk in these conditions, but no demanding pitches either.
If there's really a lot of snow in the route like last year then it's really a walk.
|
|
|
|
| Viper14. 03. 2015 21:43:32 |
Today with buddy climbed Desni and Zadnji icefall in Tamar. Desni icefall still well formed, Zadnji getting worse especially right at the start of the second pitch.
 1 2
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Viper15. 03. 2015 15:10:22 |
Today climbed Frelihova route in Begunjščica. All three pitches are quite demanding especially the second pitch which is entirely hollow, on the first pitch thin ice where the picks barely hold. Third pitch also hollow, on top of the pitch some ice, just enough to get over.
 1 2
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin15. 03. 2015 15:18:08 |
Why didn't you go under the boulder?
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Viper15. 03. 2015 15:21:21 |
I looked through the hole, but it seemed to me that you can't get through, as I looked.
|
|
|
|
| Viper15. 03. 2015 16:00:47 |
Both variants are climbable, even if there's as much snow as now.
|
|
|
|
| Bojan_A15. 03. 2015 16:45:10 |
I was in the Lenuh gully. Except for three short steps, conditions are ideal. Super pick work  :
| (+4) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Janez Seliškar19. 03. 2015 11:06:07 |
Teranova in Dolgi Hrbet still well climbable, though quite narrow snow strips at two spots.
| (+5) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Jovan Cukut19. 03. 2015 20:38:58 |
More on current conditions in Teranova route in north face of Dolgi Hrbet in pics and comments on link below.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin20. 03. 2015 20:00:57 |
Yesterday (19.03.2015) Matej and I climbed the gully between Travnik and Šite. We'd had the route "on the pick" for five years already since we've been climbing together. In 2011 we were still "too green" to go for it. Well, 5 years of waiting paid off, we climbed it in nearly ideal conditions.
This time the start was really at an inhuman hour, first due to road closure, second because we wanted to be at the route entry at 7 a.m. We started climbing at 7, with one "fuckup" we were at the wall edge at 1 p.m. The route/gully first 200m real creak-creak fantasy with traverses and up to 80° windslab on rocks. Protection: some pitons in rock and occasional picket in the first 200m. In reality you climb belay to belay with no intermediate pro (no ice for screws). After 200m (4 pitches) the route lays back, mostly snowfields to summit wall. We chose left exit variant, in penultimate pitch total overhanging step, Matej hacked through with crampons no problem (didn't know his swear word stash was so full...). After hardest part just walk the flank to ridge exit but flank no joke. If nothing else calves burn and you wait for sun to caress face.
Well, there was and too much. Descent dragged, wind crust snow knee-deep, snowballs on crampons like mad. At 4 p.m. arrived at Vršič exhausted and fully dehydrated. Luckily found red treasure under "Vršič" sign. (Thx Nace). Route awesome, descent long and suffering.
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
| (+15) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.