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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

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nace120. 03. 2015 21:42:52
For this ascent I'd have easily left you two more. Bravo guys
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redbull20. 03. 2015 23:03:08
congratulations and good luck onwards
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jedriličar21. 03. 2015 07:34:33
Nice, Juš, congrats ... I checked it out up close yesterday, but the entry is a bit nasty .... will you lead me and Andrej next winter .... velik nasmeh
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dprapr21. 03. 2015 08:39:46
Congratulations!
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Maemi21. 03. 2015 08:47:46
Wow, really wild, congrats for this great feat nasmeh
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dolenjka&primorc21. 03. 2015 08:56:21
Awesome mežikanje
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knap422721. 03. 2015 09:08:22
My opinion 'jedriličar', we don't know each other yet, but I'd say for a test before this gully, you first take me up some IV grade waterfall and the first pitch of Rožičeva in this year's state. That's the exam for this gully, at least as far as I'm concerned, and then I'll happily take you across. And some of my pics too.

Best, Matej
On the approach1
Looks deceptive, once inside the real steepness is revealed2
Above the ''traverse''3
One of the variants offered higher up, today even with live broadcast from Planica4
Exit, in background Mangart and Kotova špica5
6
Mihov dom open where dry shoes already await and we get something else. Top tour this winter, unfortunately Central hides under Prisankam. Lp7
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Jovan Cukut22. 03. 2015 07:33:28
In Lenuhova and Y gully there is still enough snow for ascent to Begunjščica ridge.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/LenuhovaInYGrapaVBegunjscici2103201503#
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Dr.ejči22. 03. 2015 09:30:19
With a bit of delay... Parallel to Juša's and Matej's adventure on Thursday, we tackled Meniskus gully and traversed the entire Robičje. Meniskus caught "by the tail". Snow in the gully was quite windblown, at the left fork we really struggled to climb over the rock jump because we dug a massive hole in front of it. Exit from the gully is already fully summer. We panted to the ridge and found north side completely wet, unprocessed snow. Option to descend old upper PP variant we dropped immediately. Straddled the ridge and worked it slowly towards Prednji Robič. Progress no big issues, just snow could've been way more compact. On one tower belayed traverse and ascent, summit before Prednji Robič bypassed as II slab fully loose snow and cleaning too time-consuming... Bypass spiced up too as I went into only ice streak visible that day. Belayed there too, bit further stomped last pitch to P. Robičje successfully. Descended to Vratca and scree direct to hut. Nice adventure. Perfectly timed to meet all at Rjavčeva hut. Gotta admit never seen Matej so beat... Juša well, that's another story... velik nasmeh
Entry into Meniskus...the slab wasn't hard either...1
the pitch was still climbable2
...unique ambience...(view of Vršič)3
...it could be steeper...4
...view from the gully...5
...at the fork we choose the left variant...6
...on a completely soaked pitch that we crossed to the end...7
...exit from the gully completely summer-like...8
view towards Mojstrovke9
wading to the ridge10
on the ridge11
memories of veleprečenje12
the adventure really started here13
view back on the traversed ridge14
this still awaits us15
there were quite a few small sections16
snow-covered slab (II) that we bypass on the left17
the views were fantastic18
M. Mojstrovka from P. Robič.19
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mukica22. 03. 2015 10:25:08
Jovan, all congrats for both gulliesnasmeh
I was happy about the meeting and handshake, maybe sometime I too will manage something in the company of old catsmežikanje
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mukica22. 03. 2015 10:27:25
Dr.ejči @crew... congrats to you too and hats off... very nice and attractive to seenasmeh
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jedriličar22. 03. 2015 10:50:20
Andrej, you guys enjoy yourselves there on ridges ... I kinda messed up a bit .... velik nasmeh
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Viper22. 03. 2015 20:39:08
Today I went up Župančičeva gully to Mala Mojstrovka. Descended via Pripravniška gully. Župančičeva and Pripravniška are excellently made and well trodden. Also climbed Sestopna gully which is quite poorly made and has three jumps too.
Entry into Župančičeva gully1
Continuation in the gully2
3
Already towards the end of Župančičeva gully4
Pripravniška gully5
Entry into Pripravniška gully6
Initial step into Sestopna gully, which is not taken7
Possibility to bypass the first jump to the left8
Second drop9
Quite dangerous section that doesn't look it. Under fresh snow smooth slabs, snow only 2-3cm.10
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Dr.ejči23. 03. 2015 08:14:13
Although most gullies above Zelenica have already shaken off the uncontrolled rush, we still wanted some "less interesting" gully. I got the tip a week ago, when after exiting Pomladni cvet I saw two in the route. "Up top a bit less, otherwise hard... it's fine" the hutkeeper served info when they reached the hut.
Thaw came and did its... conditions more "medium sorrow"... snow soft, in upper part when we turned to right, real exit, we already scratched, dug and shoveled properly over steps. Left, easier exit via chute, still snow-covered. Feeling we caught Left Gully on Vrtača "by the tail". Descended South Gully, met two ascending groups (ok, one had southern brothers and one sister, so somewhat forgiven velik nasmeh) who missed Suho Ruševje... better luck next time.
towards Levi grapa1
in the shady part it was still acceptable2
compared to last year it's real drought!3
quite icy4
we pulled to the right (left is easier exit)5
crack, crack...6
second kopnina7
gully8
third ovira9
colleague chose the spicy version10
as for views, we had more luck11
above the last drop we made huge craters12
my companions13
descent via Južna grapa14
The ridge calls for a repeat15
(+6)like
Dr.ejči25. 03. 2015 20:16:57
Before today's deterioration, yesterday we "last minute" visited Begunjščica. After Saturday's thaw on Vrtača, I expected ideal conditions due to the cold, clear night. Well, it turned out that the Sunday-Monday snowfall piled lots of powder on the ridge and gullies, so only the ski slope and road access was concrete hard. Up the Gully in the NW ridge to the NW ridge and along it to Veliki vrh. From the saddle or Zeleniška exit onward, the track was very poor, as most bypassed almost half the ridge to the right via Smokuški plaz. On the ridge itself, due to windblown snow and forming cokels, a very calm step was needed. We descended the parallel variant of the Central gully and, prompted by two who had just exited the chimney of the Direct route assuring great conditions, we also went to the entrance. Actually we regretted it a bit later, as those guys obviously don't know what good conditions are, we felt like millers. Otherwise, nice ruined pre-work morning... hope conditions improve.
Grapa in the NW ridge...1
on one of the more difficult jumps in the ridge2
NW ridge3
bypass from the notch right into Smokuški gully4
detail from the notch onwards5
couloir continues6
enough ice7
archival8
descent9
exit from the chimney of the Direct route10
fresh powder snow11
towards the step in the Direct... only here the ice axe creaked a few times.12
mlinar13
exit chimney14
weather deteriorating15
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garmont25. 03. 2015 21:07:57
Well done, well done Andreja!velik nasmeh
Returning the picture...1
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ljubitelj gora6. 04. 2015 17:05:40
Down Gamsova gully to Ablanco and ascent Eastern gully to Tosc, varied conditions but mostly ok. Moderate wind, morning weather ok, afternoon light snow showers but cleared soon.
Gamsova grapa1
Tosc-VDV2
Ablanca3
Eastern gully in Tosc4
from the top5
from the top of Tosca to Triglav6
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Dr.ejči8. 04. 2015 14:26:48
Debela peč via hunters' path. Maybe doesn't belong here, but it seems to deserve its place in current conditions. "Pacala" has been around for a while, meant for the summer season, but an idea was born to try it now, as snow makes progress on scree, overcoming steps and crossing fallen gullies easier. Started at Kovinarska hut and followed hunters' trail. Little snow this year, plus well processed on top, it went well for us. In upper, harder part, snow very hard, steps actually icy. On top, Monday's April weather additionally spiced the hardest part. Descended over Brda and marked path from Lipanska vrata to Krma. There also "fun", as markings in upper part quite sparse and only sawn twigs helped us. On descent snow much softer, less processed, which additionally spiced everything. Adventure that took almost whole day will stay in memory.
Debela peč from the starting point...1
...along the forest branch that we slightly missed at the beginning...2
...little man on the boulder...we are right...3
...one of the wishes...4
...under the wall to the saddle...5
...traversing the steep slope...from saddle to saddle...6
...until our line opens up... gully between Debelo pečjo and Brdam...7
...important detail...8
...the crossing is childishly easy..9
...up along the overhangs...10
...view behind our backs...11
...ever steeper and harder...12
...candle...13
...also from behind...14
...we climb steeply...15
...on the screes after the first storm it lights us up again...16
...mixed...17
...initial jump...18
...yummy...19
...continuation...20
...very hard...21
...the most demanding part...22
...and also from the top...23
...live ice and the start of the storm...24
...that's how we did the scree...25
...gully downwards...26
...we stepped out into the long-awaited sun...27
...insanely beautiful...28
...paradise...29
...towards the summit...30
...in the company of kindergarteners...31
...for the first time...32
...calves too...33
...unmarked descent from Lipanskih vrat...34
...beautiful panorama...35
...snapshots...36
...on the right path...37
...there were quite a few chimneys...38
...exposed traverse...39
...backwards...40
...extremely hard!...41
...the circle will be closed...42
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JusAvgustin8. 04. 2015 15:00:07
Praiseworthy. Stubborn stubborn...mežikanje
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koma8. 04. 2015 15:52:59
Bravo, nice.. had it planned these days!, looks pretty lively; mežikanje
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