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Jalovec

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triglavski27. 06. 2008 17:49:30
Definitely a wonderful area, worth visiting, just a bit of sense for orientation is needed. So as not to go on the marked path right under Kanjski preval where the path branches off, from the pasture go along or by the stream bed under the pasture, then right from the smaller waterfall up through the bushes, soon you reach less vegetated terrain, we ascend on a poorly visible path to the transverse path. There turn right. There follows somewhat more complicated terrain, grassy, the path is poorly visible, no marks, so all the way to Prehodca, where the path is again better visible and marked. Some caution is needed on descent from Konj, where it's usually damp and slippery, then another good half hour to the path coming from Forij gor. Altogether around 6 hours of walking. I advise against it in wet weather and fog, otherwise it's a very nice traverse suitable for autumn days, in between you find very tasty blueberries, around early September they were ripe up there. Maybe the reverse direction is really better, but after descent from Jalovec it could be quite tiring, the same of course also to Vršič. The most convenient descent is directly down to Zadnja Trento. But it can be an independent circular tour. From Florij gor, then traverse and descent over Zapotoška planina.
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žl27. 06. 2008 18:14:50
Yes, that little path past the waterfall I also know, I descended there when I visited Bavški Grintavec from Soča over Lamovje. Circular tours are very close to my heart, a bit wilder world. Definitely pl. Zapotok, beautiful, quiet, solitary. Descent to Vršič is long but even-paced, interesting because very scenic. Actually that's why we go, to walk and so shortcuts and rushing in mountains are nonsensical to me at least.
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kindir16. 07. 2008 21:28:04
Hello!
If there is a good weather forecast, on Saturday afternoon I plan from Tamar to the bivouac under Kotovo sedlo, sleep there and on Sunday to Jalovec and back to Tamar valley via Jalovska Skrbina. What are the chances of space in the bivouac now in summer season? I hope there are no dangerous snowfields.

Thanks!
LP
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Biser gora17. 07. 2008 11:06:52
Most bivouacs in the Julian Alps are occupied by Czech mountaineers. With space it's like a lottery. Maybe you get lucky or not.
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Bošti717. 07. 2008 19:23:55
Regarding bivouacs, the answer was already given. I just add data on current conditions. I was on Jalovec yesterday (16.7.) from Tamar to Kotovo sedlo and then descent via Mali kot or Jalovška škrbina or whatever you call it. On the ascent, you need to cross a gully, where there's still quite a bit of snow, but the snowfield can be bypassed on the upper side. On the descent, there's still a lot of snow on Jezerci. Ice axe is essential for crossing, crampons for faster and safer crossing. I didn't try climbing rocks above the snowfield. Maybe possible. Don't know. On descent from Goličica wall there's still some snow where ice axe is recommended but not essential. Belays from Mali kot are fine. Just watch out for quite a lot of scree on the rocks. Then crossing Ozebnik. It's only about 4-5 meters total, but steep, snow hard and if you slip, you stop at the rock where the path over scree branches off or at Kotovo sedlo. So ice axe is still mandatory for safe downward crossing, crampons recommended. At the transition from wall to snowfield, a bit of climbing needed. After this snowfield we haven't finished with the snow yet, as there's a smaller and a longer snowfield waiting, but snow was much softer there and ice axe just recommended. Between the two snowfields there's a smaller ridge which technically would pose no problems, if not for huge amount of loose stones which are far from stable. After those snowfields, descent on not ideal scree. On the "competing" forum (hope no censorship if I say it's PZS forum) it's said reverse variant is better. Mali kot up and Kotovo sedlo down. Agree. I think ascent on snowfields much easier than descent. And one more: this year around Jalovec much more snow than last year at same time.
So if you're at least medium experienced hikers, go ahead boldly. Better Mali kot up though ascent on scree quite nasty. Good luck.
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kindir21. 07. 2008 13:43:08
Hello!
Thanks for the good information. Because of the snowfields I gave up on Jalovec, so I did the tour to Kotovo sedlo instead. On Saturday I started from Tamar to the path junction to Kotovo sedlo and then right (not over the scree, but the right variant with some wires). Shortly after the junction the path was very awkward due to friability and I slipped when misjudging a wet smooth stone slab and stopped a few meters lower. Brrrr... From Kotovo sedlo I also climbed to the grassy summit from where there is a nice view all around and then descended to Tamar by the other variant, over the scree. There is still plenty of snow on the descent from Jalovec via Jalovska Skrbina and it's good that I gave up on Jalovec, without an ice axe it would be too dangerous for me.

LP
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Bojan_A7. 08. 2008 22:33:05
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morris8. 08. 2008 14:04:15
I was on Jalovec on 7.8.2008. Ascent over Ozebnik is extremely dangerous due to constant falling rocks (mandatory helmet, ice axe, crampons!!!) and I strongly advise against it. Also over Mali kot ice axe comes in handy as before entering secured path still snow which can be bypassed via narrow gully. Around Goličica no problems, also no more snow at top of Ozebnik (if starting from Soča source no snowfield anymore). To summit then normal path. Also to Kotovo sedlo path usually passable (descent), further don't know as I turned towards Mangart.
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rozka1. 09. 2008 10:28:04
Yeah, Jalovec... start from Flori parking and first to Shelter below Špica for stamp nasmeh, then further across Veliki Ozebnik where you're already right in the wall, surprises then Jezerce plateau which is like flat oasis compared to walls surrounding you. Then still ascent up wall which is not secured and leads to ridge which is also quite exposed in some places. Summit though wonderful, really like I have all mountains in palm such view... CRAZY!
22.08.08
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jersy4. 10. 2008 19:11:50
Triglavski this year with friends planning winter ascent to Jalovec, which route in winter to Jalovec do you recommend best.....through Ozebnik?
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triglavski4. 10. 2008 19:51:29
Well, it doesn't belong to this topic, so let the moderator move it. During the period from 21.12 to 31.12 (don't know exactly when calendar winter starts), you won't have much time this year. In winter usually only one suitable route, that's from Tamar through Jalovec couloir to Jezerca, then to the ridge and along the ridge to the summit. Descent on the ascent route.
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jaz1. 11. 2008 23:41:18
The most beautiful ascent to Jalovec in winter conditions is through the couloir to Jezerca. There are three variants: right above Jezerca through the chimney to the ridge and summit, on the summer route somewhere in the middle above the Loški gully through the gully, which must be filled and icy, to the ridge and from there to the summit, or in the best conditions on the summer route to the summit. Crampons, two ice axes and helmet mandatory. Best to start early in the morning, when rocks, snow and ice are not yet flying into the couloir. Anyway, Jalovec is a difficult mountain worthy of all respect! Good luck! Attaching pictures from 31.12.2007 - New Year's Eve.
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bs11. 04. 2009 14:42:15
Hello, I'm interested if anyone knows what the conditions are like for Jalovec through the couloir? Planning the tour tomorrow, so 12.04. Many thanks for possible answers, and safe steps.
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Klin11. 04. 2009 18:57:24
Careful, due to warm weather the snow cornices can break.
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sonka28. 05. 2009 14:02:59
In summer I plan from pasture Zapotok to the shelter below Špik. Since the path is not marked, I'm curious how difficult the orientation is? I have quite some experience on unmarked paths, but any info is still useful. Thanks.
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viharnik28. 05. 2009 14:47:47
The path is described in detail by Triglavski a bit higher up with the date 27.6.2008. Regards
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triglavski12. 06. 2009 14:12:03
Mornings after storms are the most beautiful in the mountains. And since Jalovec is a beautiful mountain too, in the morning I headed towards Zapodnik, though thoughts wandered elsewhere. At Flori I turn onto the path that's increasingly overgrown, up to the junction and former TNP hunting hut, then towards Mali Kot or Jalovška škrbina. Still huge amounts of snow all the way to the bushes. Already looking forward to the nice warm SE wall of Goličica, always a pleasure to climb, a bit worried about the snowfield under the wall, especially the edge. And indeed, closer up I see it's not easy, simply too much snow under the wall, can't get from snow to rock as it's too deep, try climbing below but hit smooth wet wall, wet and dirty drag back to sun, nothing left but climb to Jalovška škrbina and descend via good fixed gear to Ozebnik. Advise against this Goličica variant for about a month. Below put on crampons, ice axe already ready, climb through ozebnik to Jezerca. Two ahead on skis made good tracks in not too hard snow. Catch them at Jezerca, looking forward to meeting TKG acquaintances, but just girl and guy from Austria. Continue above Jezerca on snow of course, then remove crampons and leave them, per experience. Up dry rock quickly to ridge and along ridge to summit. Some snow left at turnoff down to Kotovo sedlo, north side snow hard frozen, south softer, ice axe helps across no problem. Summit smiles in sun, great views around. Short stop then descend. Austrians turned at ridge as ski boots on dry rock not good, overtake again, glissade down snow to Jezerca - advise against for all as very dangerous, short ascent below V. Ozebnik summit, for 15m steep snowfield crampons on, then path mostly dry. Basin under Špik huge snow still, so quickly down to Zapodnik. Generally lots of snow everywhere even south sides, will linger into summer some places. Pictures later, rushing to Poljče.
morning above Zapodnem1
important junction2
former hunting hut TNP3
and there it appeared...Jalovec4
extensive snowfields under the Goličica wall5
it's always nice to see them6
the final poča was impassable this time7
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Jalovčeva škrbina, photographed from the ozebnika9
towards the top of the ozebnika10
and valley towards Tamar11
well-equipped Austrians safely crossed the snowfield12
along the ridge mostly dry13
except this snowfield14
at the summit a short rest15
Slemenova špica16
Mangart17
around Triglav still much snow18
Loška Koritnica valley, Western Julians in background19
Small lakes below Jalovec.20
Veliki Ozebnik.21
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Also below Špička there is still a lot of snow.23
Prisojnik.24
Triglav.25
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viharnik12. 06. 2009 15:46:15
Super Triglavski, just in time I get the needed info from the mountain for tomorrow's ascent to heights. I too ponder in mind the route on selected possible tours, what awaits on path and how much snow left. Have three tours in mind;1.Flori-Mali ozebnik,2.Monte Cimone(strma peč),3.Špik. We'll see what comes of it. Best-Rokmežikanjenasmeh
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kamenček24. 06. 2009 17:14:57
I'm interested in conditions on Jalovec. Up via the glacier with winter gear (start at night due to falling rocks danger), down the right.
Anyone been around there?

LP, k jezik
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triglavski24. 06. 2009 22:14:46
Still full of snow, otherwise check a bit under Jalovec topic, you'll see everything. Gotta figure it out a bit.
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