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Mala Mojstrovka

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volk98612. 03. 2017 18:59:03
The road is plowed, dry and normally drivable.
(+3)like
colend13. 03. 2017 17:39:44
Today at the top of Mala Mojstrovka I found car keys for a Volkswagen with a keychain saying "fresh corner". To the poor guy who most likely greeted the tragic realization at one of the Vršič parking lots with a vulgar outburst (which of course we shouldn't hold against him), I gladly offer them back nasmeh

041-547-208
(+9)like
skala12314. 03. 2017 20:35:17
Today's Mala Mojstrovka offered nice views. Conditions good (with winter gear). Still plenty of snow, quite a few hikers and skiers. A bit windy. Nice greetings.
steep up through the scree1
view towards Vršič2
view of the traversed path3
section of the path4
ridge path towards M.M5
section of the ridge path6
view of the traversed path7
view of the ridge path8
Triglav9
Krn in the background10
Kredarica11
Planica deep in the valley12
Towards the summit13
Špik14
Škrlatica15
V. Mojstrovka, Mangart16
No way without crampons17
Ponce in the background18
rock face19
rock face20
Ajdovska deklica21
Prisojnik22
There is still quite a lot of snow on Vršič23
(+4)like
Tadej Bolta18. 03. 2017 23:00:20
Today on Mojstrovka. Up first via Butinarjeva, down via Pripravniška. Then tricky traverse on south snow, followed by Uroševa gully. To the top of Mojstrovka then via Pozabljena, descent via Zuančičeva.

Classics are iced up. While Uroševa gully already has a tricky entry, as you have to stretch to get over. Below the top you can ease the jump with a traverse first right, then back left. Good to have protection, especially since there's no snow and it's very exposed. If you want you can climb a bit of ice in the last meters.

Pozabljena gully also has one jump, but enough compact snow to push through. Zuančičeva iced up.

Conditions bad. Too warm! Snow keeps collapsing. Maybe a bit better tomorrow, as it'll be a few degrees cooler.


More pics when I'm home nasmeh
(+9)like
ločanka19. 03. 2017 06:30:57
yeah, aren't you home yet?nasmeh
(+7)like
Tadej Bolta19. 03. 2017 17:18:33
Today again through Uroševa gully and then via Pozabljena to Little Mojstrovka.

Conditions appropriate for the temperatures. Southern snow, wading. At the entry to Uroševa it was literally running.

@ločanka
This time I'm attaching pics (from both days together), since I'm home. Over the weekend I slept under Vršič nasmeh
searching for the entrance in the fog1
Butinarjeva grapa2
descent via Pripravniška3
traverse towards Uroševa grapa4
we found some ice5
wonderful ambience of Uroševa gully6
small traverse to the right at the jump7
exit from the traverse back into the gully8
mini waterfall as farewell to the ice season9
pool above the waterfall, Rok below it10
towards Mala Mojstrovka11
jump in the Pozabljena gully12
view from the summit13
descent via Zupančičeva14
today's entrance to Uroševa gully15
bypass around the jump, one rope team goes directly over16
traverse to the left that leads back into the gully17
towards the summit18
exit from Uroševa gully19
towards Mala Mojstrovka20
descent from the summit and crowd21
(+11)like
ločanka21. 03. 2017 18:15:55
I like reading these reports about the gullies above Vršič, as we climbed them as alpine course trainees on group tours. Uroševa was already quite an achievement, which I did as second in the rope with an alpinist, to Butinarjeva and Pripravniška we went on our own. And we felt like winners! Next day Meniskus and traverse Robičja to Vratica. Beautiful memories!
(+10)like
pikpok29. 03. 2017 19:21:59
Tomorrow planning with friend Hanzova to Mojstrovka. Does anyone happen to know how much it's covered with snow? Alternative Kopiščarjeva to Prisank, if anyone happens to have a pic from the top....
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JusAvgustin29. 03. 2017 19:28:28
You're probably joking, right?
(+2)like
pikpok29. 03. 2017 19:31:34
Why would I? Really haven't been in mountains for three months due to injury, so don't exactly know how much snow to expect. Kopiščarjevo we've basically ruled out because of first 200m ascent, what's wrong with Hanzova on MM?
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darinka429. 03. 2017 19:57:56
I'd go via Hanzova only when it's dry. Too exposed.velik nasmeh Just look!
1
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pantani129. 03. 2017 19:58:26
Has to be some joke. Via Hanzova?!!!zmeden
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pikpok29. 03. 2017 20:03:19
I know Hanzova, done it many times already. The upper photo is a bit misleading though. Anyway, we have all the gear needed for belaying. Wouldn't be the first or last I'd do with snow.
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pikpok29. 03. 2017 20:09:34
https://youtu.be/HcQ2bhAvzlI

If there's the right amount of snow it's nothing particularly demanding, that's why I wrote if anyone has information.... zmeden
(+2)like
gandalf29. 03. 2017 21:37:48
If you know what you're doing, good luck. I hope you didn't get your experience just from Klemen's video. I was at Hanzova in December and it was superb.
(+1)like
sonny431. 03. 2017 10:26:48
30.3. to MM via Župančičeva, descent via Pripravniška. Great conditions, of course in the early morning.
Lower part.1
Pripravniška gully. The photo shows it steeper than it actually is.2
In the upper part there are two ledges. This is the left one, I went along the right one.3
Slope.4
Below the summit.5
Velika Mojstrovka6
Župančičeva from Pripravniška. The photo shows it steeper than it actually is.7
Župančičeva from Pripravniška. The photo shows it steeper than it actually is.8
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volk98630. 04. 2017 12:33:38
Yesterday, 29. 4. 2017, to Mala Mojstrovka via Nad Šitom glavo. Road to Vršič is dry and normally drivable. Snow starts at scree height and there's surprisingly much towards the top. At places well over knee-deep. Climbed a gully I don't know (if anyone knows, please reply). Day ended with beautiful sunset and descent via Vratca.
1
2
Gully on the right?3
4
5
6
7
8
(+5)like
michael661. 05. 2017 05:59:09
Volk, how is the snow up to Nad Šitom glave??
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volk9861. 05. 2017 08:00:30
At Vršič practically negligible snow, then on the traverse snow somewhere up to ankles and to Nad Šitom glave somewhere between ankles and knees. Completely dependent on drifting.
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michael661. 05. 2017 08:23:38
Thanks.
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