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Mangart

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Mali Gobar13. 08. 2011 15:46:12
With Klemn we climbed Via Italiano on Mangart early this morning - first to Mangart saddle, then down to bivouac Nogara, back up Via Italiana and then via Slovenian to the summit. During climbing in the second part of the ferrata, a short rain annoyed us a bit, but it soon took pity on us. All protections, except one bolt in the last part where we climb steps, are impeccable. For those planning this ascent - the entrance to the ferrata is about 100m ABOVE bivouac Nogara. You have cairns from there, but it's easier if, on descent from saddle, you keep to the edge of scree and enter beyond it when you spot hole in wall on left through which cable runs. Day was nice, though not overly sunny. Pilgrim path via Italian route bustled upwards on our descent. Whole tour done in less than five hours. Recommend to all who don't want to hike from Belopeške lakes to bivouac and back, though you'll miss some beautiful views along path and of course lakes. Won't elaborate on ferrata itself this time, I REALLY liked it.

Nice mountaineering greeting to the whole team,
Jure
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rozka13. 08. 2011 16:56:24
Ola Jany... well, and after warming up on Kamnitem lovcunasmeh congratulations to both for the successful ascent and of course that you finally stood on Mangart summit... day was perfect and this time company outweighed all views and all sunshinemežikanjevelik nasmeh
Slovenska on Mangart1
Jany in action:)))2
remains of the old path3
snow was up to the knees4
snapshot5
just a little bit more6
from the top7
detail8
Belopeška lakes9
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skala12313. 08. 2011 20:42:34
Today on Mangart. At the saddle, a small morning rain shower greeted us, which didn't cause problems; soon rocks were dry. Path overall very scenic, lots of hikers (some hike very irresponsibly--kick stones, so helmet is quite obligatory). After return fog started descending. Nice greeting
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garmont14. 08. 2011 09:51:41
Mangart attracted me yesterday too. Due to logistical issues (transport) we were at saddle barely at 11. On way to junction I watched climbers in Via Italiana, really very exposed, so ascent on it is no child's play. Up Slovenian, down classic. At summit unfortunately fog, only for moment tempting view on Jalovec, Loška stena...
On descent caught rain at saddle.
Mangart despite crowds of hikers with all sorts of gear is tempting goal and surely come again.
Lp
Via Italiana1
Exit from Via Italiana at the top2
Our group in Slovenska3
You need to bend down a little4
Less exposed ascent5
Mangart loop6
View back7
All covered with scree8
In the gully above the left traverse9
Wondering if the fog will clear somewhat10
Almost managed to see Jalovec summit11
Someone cut off a quite large piece12
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Stane714. 08. 2011 10:22:19
When I was on Jalovec (around ten), Mangart was nicely visible. On top looked quite crowded.
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matz23. 08. 2011 15:56:42
Hello,

I have already visited Mangart once via the Italian route, after this year's acquisition (self-belay kit) I plan an ascent via the Slovenian route.

I don't have much experience with very demanding paths yet (many years ago e.g. on Triglav from Kredarica); recently I've been hiking mainly to mountains on paths up to (including) difficult grade.

I've read the previous comments but I'd ask if someone can comment on this path more in detail, the most demanding/exposed/dangerous sections, path equipment for belaying on these parts etc. If someone has any additional pics, also welcome nasmeh

Thanks everyone in advance and safe steps!
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Santi23. 08. 2011 16:25:19
Matz, just boldly head out on the path, it's nicely routed and well secured where needed.
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MANGRT24. 08. 2011 23:07:46
Dear Matz, if you got to Mangart via Italian direction you'll manage Slovenian too. They differ in that Slo. direction has path more vertically, where steel cables help. Only watch small stones and sand on some sections. Last time up Thursday alone and Saturday with daughters. Time from saddle to top two hours and same descent Italian.
entrance to the Slovenian route1
you just need to stay focused2
summit in warm sun3
a bit of skiing4
descent via the Italian one5
after nine the crowd started forming6
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robter25. 08. 2011 05:55:00
MANGRT I see you already have big girls, so please tell me what type of climbing harness they use. Is it women's or kids' model?
Asking because I need to buy one too for daughter (12 years, 140 cm).
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MANGRT25. 08. 2011 06:43:03
Robert harness is Camp up to 150cm, very soft, bought in Hervis 5 years ago
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robter25. 08. 2011 06:52:08
Thanks
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Žiga2225. 08. 2011 14:39:54
One question; if you climb up the Italian via ferrata, do you then directly reach the Italian path to the top of Mangart, or do you continue and then the Italian and Slovenian paths split towards the top?
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tiyana25. 08. 2011 14:43:03
you arrive at the saddle ...after a while they split ...
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bos27. 08. 2011 21:44:52
Today fulfilled the wish of my better half and took her up the Slovenian ridge and down the Italian valley. Wind accompanied us the whole way, around noon when we were already at the car it started raining lightly.
For the highlight of the tour also excellent strudelwink at the hut.
start of the Slovenian route1
today quite a lot of people in the Slovenian route2
saddle and shadow of Mangart3
Slovenian route4
Slovenian route5
Slovenian route6
from the top view towards Jalovec7
man on the cross8
bivouac Nogara far below9
Mangart, the Slovenian route runs through the right gully10
the hut which is a little below the saddle11
sheep at the hut12
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Žiga2228. 08. 2011 13:22:28
@bos

Was it maybe pouring around 12h on Mangart? I returned already at 11h and an hour later when I was driving through Predil it started pouring heavily. Before that while descending I saw a huge crowd of hikers who were just starting to climb Mangart.
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cjendaw28. 08. 2011 15:49:52
Yes, a few minutes past 12h when we were at the top it started raining and was like a slide. Some pics from the top http://bojana-in-jure.2freedom.com/
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tinky29. 08. 2011 15:51:36
If you head into the mountains early enough you usually avoid weather troubles. We had a wonderful sunny day. Up the Slovenian down the Italian.
beginning1
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entry into the Slovenian route3
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tinky29. 08. 2011 16:26:10
I don't know why but I can't upload more pics. Also interested in those multicolored flags like I noticed on Brana.
parking lot1
a bit of climbing2
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at the top4
the girl deserved a big sandwich5
Rabeljsko lake6
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GITA29. 08. 2011 23:51:36
Well, today even later hour wasn't problematic weather-wise...nasmeh

After vacationing some time at 0 m a.s.l. nasmeh, had to re-acclimatize a bit to high mountains mežikanje, so for end of holidays we did nice family high-alpine 'walk' from saddle up Slovenian to top and down Italian...already soon at path start pleasant surprise - meeting forum mate, first time met at Vrh nad Peski (thanks for speaking to me nasmeh, I knew you but didn't exactly know where to 'place' you mežikanje...third time lucky, hope we meet again soon nasmeh). Quite some visits but far from big crowds, so pleasant! Views imperial, even Grossglockner and 'queen' of High Tauern on the palm...rocks really smooth, smoother year by year, so I believe it's not nice when wet....Since tour shorter, afternoon went for some 'tourism', usually no time or energy for it...stopped first at hut so girls could sweeten themselves with excellent 'štrudel', then at Mangartska planina for tasting real sheep cheese, then at Predel to finally find out when barracks remains date from and what monument with famous lion is for, finally stop at Rabeljsko jezero where Jerebica proudly mirrored, hope to climb it this autumn too...nasmeh...
Wonderful view already while driving towards the saddle...Rombon, Jerebica, Kanin mountain range, Vrh Grubje, Žrd....1
We're already ascending...the view is already wonderful on Viš, Montaž...what will it be like at the top :-)2
We're going up there....3
You have to duck a bit... :-)4
A little below the summit...5
Part of the panorama from the top... in front Jalovec dominates, behind of course Triglav...6
Also on the descent quite a few steel cables...7
On the pasture...8
View back...9
At the hut...10
Quite a few enjoyed it like this in the afternoon :-)11
Stock at Mangartska planina :-)))12
This is rarely seen nowadays....in the area of Strmca...13
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andrejp2. 09. 2011 14:14:22
This morning from Belopeška Lakes, past Bivacco Nogara to ferrata and up Slovenian to top. Think I was first today....then back down Italian side, again past bivouac to Belopeška Lakes. Super tour for this morning.

lpa
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