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Mangart

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techouse31. 10. 2014 18:35:41
Slovenian route is icy in some parts and impossible without ice axe and crampons. Italian normal route is also snowy with about 10 cm of hard snow and doable without crampons, but I recommend ice axe anyway. Road is drivable to the landslide sign. After that, snow drifts and ice on the road.
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MANGRT2. 11. 2014 20:19:45
Parking under Mali vrh was our starting point. To the saddle first along the road, then traverse grassy slopes to the known path towards Mangart direction. In the wall of small Mangart we observe two youngsters climbing and most who turned back at the first cables of the Italian route. That didn't deter us and we turn right to the Slovenian. Crampons and ice axe would be more hindrance than help so they stay ready. All to the summit nothing special, here and there more snow with ice, caution 100%.
The summit offers beautiful views and soon back. On the Italian also nothing different, just more windblown snow in places which improves step stability. At the saddle we spot two paragliders, we met them on the way back, who jump from the summit to the valley.
Pity, conditions will worsen soon.
First along the road then on the grassy slope.1
the Italian one looks dry but isn't at all.2
Slovenian slightly whitened3
the most difficult part of the path4
nicely covered5
Jalovec stands alone6
did not tire of begging7
gorgeous8
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back towards the saddle10
and that's the end11
the picture cannot show everything the eye sees around12
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IgorZlodej14. 11. 2014 14:38:06
Up the Slovenian. Snow starts about halfway, a bit higher I gear up. Some old snow, over it new which is bonded to old. The higher I go, the harder the snow. Similar on descent via Italian, where snow reaches a bit below the traverse.
looks quite bare1
towards the west2
in the Slovenian3
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completely wintery5
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poor prospects7
The screes are still bare8
one went up the Italian one9
(+24)like
redbull14. 11. 2014 18:58:04
What nice weather,, and congrats on the ascent.
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skalaš7014. 11. 2014 20:54:57
Nice, nice "Igor", interesting pics of mist and clouds play .... congrats anyway smile.
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IgorZlodej2. 01. 2015 17:40:17
Over Mangart pasture along the marked path to Mesnovka. In the initial part there's a trail that soon peters out, so I scramble straight to the road before the last tunnel. Less snow to the hut or windblown, likewise to the saddle no issues. Trampled shorter section below MRM again, higher up no new snow, hard, somewhat icy in places, especially at the start of the traverse, then optimal conditions to the summit, approached via east ridge.

Descent via ascent path, lower from Mangart hut snow quite churned up, so next days either crust or hard snow, depending on temps that often change drastically.
Framed beauty1
Špice2
Arrival at the road3
Snapshot4
Now for real5
For the winter route we'll have to wait a little longer6
prostop along the eastern ridge7
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From the hut to Rombon9
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darinka42. 01. 2015 18:53:42
Congratulations on the completed tour. And nice pictures.
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redbull2. 01. 2015 19:17:19
congrats Igor
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IgorZlodej2. 01. 2015 19:33:15
I don't need congrats mežikanje
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flapho2. 01. 2015 20:00:34
You really are a villain!!!!jezen
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IgorZlodej2. 01. 2015 21:27:34
It's written with a capital letter, if you don't even know that mežikanje
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janez.novak2. 01. 2015 22:55:00
Igor, how much snow on the road - can you reach the saddle without much trudging and do small crampons need to be used?
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redbull3. 01. 2015 05:14:59
nasmeh
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IgorZlodej3. 01. 2015 07:24:34
I went along the marked path, partly also on the road, track is made mežikanje. Small crampons are not suitable for mountains mežikanje.
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Maemi13. 01. 2015 23:21:41
The road by car from the first tunnel onwards is impassable even with chains due to lots of compacted frozen snow. Footpath to Mangart as per IgorZlodej's description, just with less snow.
Ascent Slovenian way, descent Italian route. It was windy and very much so, so no romance or special pleasure from sharp snow cutting into the face. Snow drifted in places, blown away elsewhere, frozen and icy sections, mix of all on both paths... lots of concentration and effort, it wasn't easy for me personally, I admit. Thanks to my experienced partner nasmeh
Salute to Mangart, great giant who's waited many years for me to summit it specially and show respect. In pretty tough conditions he allowed it.
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redbull14. 01. 2015 03:35:00
congratulations
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Maemi14. 01. 2015 12:01:15
Thanks, redbull
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ločanka14. 01. 2015 19:19:34
Maemi, you wrote it so nicely, with a lot of gratitude to the mountain that let you reach the top in really harsh conditions. It wasn't easy for you,
but you proved you're made of the right stuff, capable of many great things. If one approaches the mountain with such respect and awareness of its power, and feels gratitude for being able to climb it, success won't fail. In the mountains, nothing is taken for granted!
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Maemi15. 01. 2015 09:46:47
Thank you so much, ločanka, for those words. You're so right, in the mountains there's no room for a high ego.
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pantani115. 01. 2015 09:54:05
Congratulations. Hats off nasmeh
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