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Mangart

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IgorZlodej21. 08. 2010 17:06:13
I wrote secured path - ferrata Via Italiana. To this ferrata the closest access is from Mangart saddle under Mali Rateški Mangart, over wire mesh that prevents Rateške sheep access so they wouldn't graze and mingle with those from Mangart planina. The path is a bit slippery from droppings, so not for those who fuss with toilet paper in the mountains.
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maiden21. 08. 2010 18:51:06
Interesting, even now I'm not entirely clear where this path goes. Last time I was on Mangart via Slovenska. Classic, from saddle to junction where path to wall branches off. By the way, fourth and sixth photos are awesome!
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Bojan_A21. 08. 2010 18:53:25
Look at the map. Otherwise the branch is marked and you can't miss it. Otherwise Via Italiana is super path, because not so forced as Austrian ferratas. Without trouble you can climb the path without grabbing the cable even once.
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panda21. 08. 2010 19:14:16
Bojan A: my subjective opinion, you exaggerate a bit. How to advance in horizontal traverse (photo no. 6 - long brackets) without holding the cable? Believe me, I know what I'm asking.....I tried the ferrata three years ago. LPnasmeh
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dusi21. 08. 2010 19:29:40
BojanA, ferrata Via Italiana ranks among extremely demanding climbing paths and almost the whole ferrata you have to grip cables firmly.nasmeh
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klm21. 08. 2010 21:00:59
I quite agree with Bojan. In contrast to the Austrian ones (Cjajnik; Turška glava) it is routed through logical natural passages, at the same time allowing progress by gripping the rock much more frequently than on the aforementioned ferratas. However steel cables also have a psychological effect: namely the mountaineer will simply prefer to use them (practically pulling along them) for progression rather than rocks.
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ania21. 08. 2010 21:30:24
bojan A... you're exaggerating a bit.. that via italiana can be descended without grabbing the cable... come on... I climb a lot myself and think I'm not too bad... but I couldn't descend via italiana without cables.... especially not the traverses.... so....zmedenzmeden.....

LP A.
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Bojan_A21. 08. 2010 21:44:54
OK, well. With some exceptions most of it can be descended. The problem is as klm wrote, if there's a cable we pull on it. For me the problem was the crowd and struggling without cable goes much slower and causes a jam.
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sabina.721. 08. 2010 22:11:16
I was also on Mangart today, a bit earlier than Igor, so avoided all crowds although went classic Italian. Cousin accompanied me to one third, then continued alone as he had slight dizziness. Morning was cold whole valley covered in clouds. Then temperature rose a lot and mists dispersed. Worth getting up early especially with such forecast and goal!nasmeh
Morning mists1
Ready!2
Better to be above the clouds than in the clouds!.3
4
My cousin accompanied me up to here.5
There are not many people at the summit yet.6
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rerze1122. 08. 2010 19:02:39
Around half past ten start at saddle and via Slovenian route to top. Even before entering the route we watched hikers on ferrata plenty of them. Weather sunny no wind on return some fog... Lots of people...rocks falling nicely from under feet... mrk pogled Well bike race to saddle succeeded too. Nice day it would be a sin to stay home nasmeh
Mangart 2679m1
Italian via ferrata2
View of the saddle.3
Warning before entering the Slovenian route4
Place of the collapse. The path goes on the right side.5
6
Jalovec 2645m and Bavški Grintavec 2347m7
8
Rabelj Spires 1909m9
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ksena22. 08. 2010 22:26:58
Today the circular tour "fell" - From Belopeška or Mangart Lakes via ferrata Via della vita, past Bivacco Tarvisio to Koritniški Mangart and along the entire ridge (up and down variant) to the junction with the Italian variant to Mangart. Via della vita is a great ferrata. Although considered very difficult, the shorter secured section from Bivacco Tarvisio to Koritniški Mangart seemed much harder to me or requires much more skill and ingenuity to overcome. But that's not bad at all, quite welcome nasmehFrom Koritniški Mangart onwards to the west the path dragged on. Good thing it's varied, going up and down, secured in places, not elsewhere. Crossing grassy slopes can be slippery when wet, as protections are sparingly placed.
Since Mangart was shrouded in fog in the afternoon, decision was to continue to the valley past Bivacco Nogara. Path to it branches off from Mangart Saddle. Today's tour was nice but long. Recommend, but not without helmet and via ferrata set.
after entering the wall1
2
3
refreshment4
view downwards5
beauty Jalovec6
bivouac Tarvisio7
towards Koritniški Mangart it was also very tight8
view of bivouac Tarvisio from the path to Koritniški Mangart9
on Koritniški Mangart10
Mangart in the mist11
one of the descents12
at bivouac Nogara13
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gvodopivec22. 08. 2010 23:13:39
Hello,

I'm interested in opinions on the tour Belopeška Lakes - V. Ponca then along the ridge all the way to Mangart Saddle and back to the valley?
Thanks!
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gregcs123. 08. 2010 07:32:17
Nice tour, long, from Struga to Vevnica protections in slightly worse condition, killing descent over scree.

pictures
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GregorC1. 09. 2010 10:59:45
Tomorrow I'd go to Mangart via Italian path, wondering if anyone was up there today or yesterday. How's the path, any snow left? Thanks.
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legenda1. 09. 2010 17:52:19
We two have the same questions, just that we'd go to Mangart via Slovenian path. Igor, can you as a local in these parts help somehow?
Thanks for any info.
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IgorZlodej1. 09. 2010 19:11:59
I have no information; there might still be some snow on the north side, and given the low night temperatures, also ice. Otherwise, I suggest calling the Mangart hut at 041954761. Good luck.
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legenda1. 09. 2010 19:43:54
Igor, I called the Mangart hut and got information similar to yours. Since I never challenge the mountain, we cancelled the ascent to Mangart. Thanks anyway and have a nice day further.
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GregorC2. 09. 2010 16:11:47
I went up today via the Italian route. It's as Igor predicted. Almost all the secured part is in snow and ice. You need to be very careful and look well where you step. Otherwise, I turned back and didn't go to the summit, because I'm not best at such paths. When there's snow, I prefer hills like Ratitovec and similar. So the Mangart summit must wait a bit more for me.
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krasovc6. 09. 2010 22:44:13
Since Igor Zlodej already wrote several times he was at Mangart for logbook change, I'll quietly say it needs another one; two weeks ago still some pages left, yesterday we signed only the Italian one.
Additionally, I must say the weather was like elsewhere, fog and it was blowing. Pity no view, would have liked it because I was up with my snotnose :-)
fog and frost on the summit1
A little sunshine appeared for a moment2
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IgorZlodej7. 09. 2010 09:49:03
Indeed I changed the logbook at Mangart many times, and also many other places, and not only that, all markings on paths to Mangart I renewed, as well as on other paths under PD Bovec (around 150 km), but it looks like I'll slowly "retire"; the reason is known to most, so I won't discuss it.
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