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Prisank

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Hribolaznik6. 07. 2015 22:13:04
On Saturday to Prisank via Hanzova. Wonderful. Hot. Strenuous. Descent via Zadnje okno - Planja saddle - Pogačnikov dom.
Cows on the Vršiška road.1
Start of Hanzova - Koča na Gozdu.2
In the wall - Hanzova path to Prisank.3
Entrance to the snow patch - Hanzova path to Prisank.4
View back to the snow patch - Hanzova path to Prisank.5
Hanzova path to Prisank.6
View of Jalovec and Mangart - Hanzova path to Prisank.7
Hanzova path to Prisank.8
At the top of Prisanka9
Towards Zadnje okno10
Zadnje okno of Prisank11
Greeting from the fog :)12
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Guest10. 07. 2015 06:56:42
Hello,
I'm interested if it's possible to cross or bypass the snowfield on Hanzova without winter gear. Thanks for the info.
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tslok110. 07. 2015 07:33:23
The snowfield is quite annoying, that darker part is ice which doesn't melt much during the day. It's good to have at least small 4-point crampons, then it goes without problem.
lp
Tadej
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Jovan Cukut10. 07. 2015 10:21:24
Don't go with small crampons into the mountains. Even in summer. And again we're back to something that's been written I don't know how many times already on this portal: is it really hard to have two kilos more in the backpack? The snowfield as shown in picture No. 4 and some more need to be crossed with full winter gear.
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zokica10. 07. 2015 10:52:54
For this route to Prisank I agree with Jovan.
A very short time from August to the first snow is when this section might be without hard compacted snow. Besides, the slope in this part is very steep. The snowfield cannot be bypassed.
Therefore, whoever heads out on this route at this time without crampons and without ice axe should not go.
If something like this surprises you somewhere without winter gear, better turn back.
(+6)like
zokica10. 07. 2015 10:56:34
Pantani1... wrong clipping on photo 6.
For such clipping the carabiner gates must be facing outwards and not towards the rock.
(+1)like
Smetar10. 07. 2015 14:23:20
@zokica: if the cable goes vertically (not distinctly visible from the photo) and we can't predict the side of a possible fall then we clip two carabiners, one turned outwards and the other towards the rock. In case of fall, at least one holds if the other hits the bolt violently and breaks...

(+4)like
jax10. 07. 2015 14:30:10
It'll take it, it will...
Another month or month and a half, then it'll be possible to go on dry land there too.
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jax10. 07. 2015 14:30:12
It'll melt it away...
Another month or month and a half, then you can cross there on dry ground too.
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redbull10. 07. 2015 14:32:04
In another month or two it'll dump new snow. Cooling comes with August.
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Hribolaznik10. 07. 2015 16:04:06
Regarding crampons on Hanzova path... Before my crossing two guys handled the first snowfield without crampons, bypassed the second leg. Don't recommend. Took longer and lots more fear. First leg more dangerous (harder snow, steeper slope).
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Guest10. 07. 2015 20:28:49
Thanks for info.
Been on Hanzova many times, asking about current conditions. Sometimes bypass at end of gully, cross under snow and climb rocks other side. Depends on conditions. Thanks.
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dprapr10. 07. 2015 20:32:54
If you start on Kopiščarjeva and cross to Hanzova, you'll get the "cream" there without snow trouble. Checked today!
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dprapr10. 07. 2015 21:11:29
Today my wife and I enjoyed up there. Mixed paths a bit, took the nicer part - as befits birthday of my better half.
On Kopiščarjevi.1
Passage through the chimney.2
We turned down there towards the sun.3
Snow patch in the gully below the window.4
And we're already on Hanzovi.5
That's how mountaineers celebrate birthdays, in the mountains, without alcohol.6
That should be snow..., strange colors.7
Below the rockfall.8
Očak visible from everywhere.9
Enjoying, what else.10
If there weren't these pegs and pitons, it would be...11
My gaze keeps wandering there.12
Returns along the ridge past the window.13
Flowers and peaks that have no equal.14
Yes, the gaze wandered there too.15
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panda11. 07. 2015 08:56:23
Congrats, also because didn't use safety kit. How much time for loop tour?nasmeh
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dprapr11. 07. 2015 12:44:38
Thanks.
7 hours.
These aren't ferratas, why a safety kit!
(+4)like
panda11. 07. 2015 14:01:03
For extra safety.........thanks for the answer.nasmeh
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mdj12. 07. 2015 09:58:50
I'm wondering where to turn onto Hanzova path from Kopiščarjeva path?
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dprapr12. 07. 2015 10:08:45
Above the chimney (picture 2), when you spot the window, the path turns left downwards. It's marked!
At this point left down the rutted path.1
I don't remember if this connection was marked a few years ago!?2
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mdj12. 07. 2015 16:08:51
thanks a lotnasmeh
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