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| sin narave16. 11. 2011 21:34:47 |
Today wasn't thrown away.  Safe until next time
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| gams117. 11. 2011 08:06:40 |
Also via Stenar notch, from junction below Rušje (left to Stenar up scree), snow conditions stable. In upper part of gully below Stenar notch not much compact snow, but with proper (full) gear goes without problem.
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| Flora123. 11. 2011 17:46:09 |
How much snow up via normal route over Sovatna?
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| IgorZlodej23. 11. 2011 17:52:52 |
Over Sovatna dry, higher up some snow patches, attaching pic from 18.11 from Triglav summit.
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| Flora123. 11. 2011 19:27:57 |
Thanks, Igor. I see Dobrač is dry. Damn. Just enough that you need to wear gojzarje because of gear, with gojzarje I can't run.  Well, then to Dovška vrata. Is this from Triglav?
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| urbancek24. 11. 2011 14:01:02 |
And then for crossing over Sovatna to Stenar, don't we need winter gear? If someone has fresher firsthand info, I would appreciate it... 
Thanks and best!
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| viharnik24. 11. 2011 15:32:52 |
Winter gear is mandatory where there is snow, even on steep icy grass slopes! On sunny spots after so many sunny days, ice has formed from snow in many places. This makes ascents harder too, if previously they were just a walk in fresh snow.
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| Flora124. 11. 2011 15:36:58 |
Isn't that Stenar on Igor's pic? Bottom left?
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| urbancek24. 11. 2011 19:28:41 |
No, no panic, just a bit more extra weight with me, and it'll be ok...
Thanks!
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| ljubitelj gora25. 11. 2011 20:10:38 |
You can't get to Stenar without crampons and ice axe.
It looks like this:
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| urbancek25. 11. 2011 21:41:16 |
Well, as said, today Stenar welcomed me into its solitude. Gotta say, days like today just have to be seized. Silence (on summit really incredible, no breath of wind), solitude, wilderness,.. all that and more this wonderful mountain offered today.
Predecessor told you some about conditions, I'll describe more precisely from firsthand: Crampons and ice axe essential!! Though from look and afar almost all dry, need to put on/take off crampons 3x (in between dry, so constant gear swapping takes time and energy)... One snowfield before Dovška vrata, two later on Stenar slope. Snow very hard, ice axe hard to plunge, but from today my "holes" Attaching some pics.
It was super!
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| Janez Seliškar27. 11. 2011 11:44:51 |
Crampons and ice axe mandatory for ascent, sun doesn't soften the snow either.
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| Janez Seliškar4. 12. 2011 11:39:35 |
I assume I forgot my Mountaineering and Water ID at the stamp on top of Stenar!!
I recommend myself to any summit visitors!!
Thanks and best!
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| ŠIMETA23. 01. 2012 17:29:37 |
Stenar with its impressive east face has been catching my eye for a while. Last time we eyed it from Vrtaški vrh. This weekend decision made, we're going up, conditions good. Weather stability confirmed day before by forecasters at Kredarica. Road snowy, icy below and many slipped in climbs above Peričnik. Our 4x4 brings us easily to parking before Aljažev dom.
Shortly after 7am we head from Vrata towards Rušje. No one ahead this morning. At forest line we already put on crampons and zigzag up the avalanche chute. After morning snow shower, peaks around shine in sun, motivating us well to push on. Late thaw from previous day, so we occasionally sink deep into otherwise nice crust. In full winter gear, below bivouac we turn left into gullies under Stenar towards Stenarska vrata. Few hundred meters below gate we already trample wind-blown snow, passage through gate ideal. Just right filled, no ice, allowing nice safe climb to edge, over which rise snow cornices lifted by SW wind. View to sunny side serves true winter fairytale. Ahead soft traverse of slope to upper Stenar slope. When over last edge, finally proper conditions for crampon walking, so we climb to summit ridge and on firm base to windy top. At conquered summit we celebrate properly, shoot views (pic with Očak behind obligatory) and head back same way. Descent down Stenarska vrata finally warms our Andreja properly...;-)) Followed by just two hours pleasant descent to valley.
Conquered Stenar: Aleš, Igor and Andreja
Short video recorded, to be posted in coming days.
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| Flora123. 01. 2012 17:34:08 |
Oh, awesome!!! My wish!!! Quick, upload pics!!! I was doing a little training for high mountains this weekend because of fresh snow!
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| longy3823. 01. 2012 19:33:20 |
the best..
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| mukica24. 01. 2012 05:52:05 |
Congratulationsnice tour
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| ŠIMETA24. 01. 2012 08:24:04 |
Flora 1 was super, but walking was really quite demanding. Old snow gave way several times. New snow was wind-blown on open slopes, so at least there it was nice to walk with crampons. In sheltered spots there was quite a bit of work, as all tracks were filled in. At some places we waded up to our knees, so our ascent time to the summit was considerably extended.
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| sla24. 01. 2012 09:00:31 |
Skis or snowshoes would have come in handy.
And another question - would a regular car with slightly lower ground clearance, supposed to have quasi 4x4 drive, make it to the end of the road?
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