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Storžič

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serznoz14. 01. 2014 18:25:46
On Sunday in fairytale day from Bašelj by nicest (hunter) path to top. Snow starts at 1850m on south side more and more wet and unstable, in shade frozen. Crampons recommended. Kramarjeva gully harmless. Back to Planina Javornik. Over path in forest quite some fallen trees.
Safe step!

For those who stayed home:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106236304443679543440/albums/5968119692838454577
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JusAvgustin1. 03. 2014 07:57:41
Yesterday via Kramarjeva route to Storžič. I've never seen the cross so iced...velik nasmeh
Descent to Peto Žrelo.
Optimal weather conditions1
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jedriličar1. 03. 2014 08:10:35
Nice, Juš. But could you describe the conditions in the route and the fifth Žrelo a bit? nasmeh
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socialac1. 03. 2014 08:23:49
Me too, I'd ask for a bit more info on Kramarjeva. Any jumps exposed or nicely filled and how's the snow consolidation? Thanks.
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ljubitelj gora8. 03. 2014 19:48:00
Was today in Kramarjeva route, descent via Peto Žrelo, nice.
bivouac1
varied route2
nicely watered3
summit4
descent Peto Žrelo5
6
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ljubitelj gora8. 03. 2014 21:21:39
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vukovivek8. 03. 2014 21:40:04
Congrats on this feat and pics are great too! :-)
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Bojan_A9. 03. 2014 07:20:28
Any jumps or all filled?
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JusAvgustin9. 03. 2014 08:53:16
What jumps... Hasn't been this good for a long time.
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jedriličar9. 03. 2014 20:52:44
Today in Kramarjeva, descent via Peto žrelo. Day to scream, conditions in Storžič north face excellent, here and there a bit postholing, jumps all filled and smoothed, if you don't know you won't spot the jump below .... top sunny hot, in Peto žrelo some postholing, overall ok. Uploading a few pics ...
No entrance jump, everything is flooded1
Above the second jump ...2
Bridge to the bivouac3
Exit from the gully towards the bivouac4
At the bivouac5
From the bivouac onwards ....6
7
View back towards the bivouac ....8
9
Last jump ...10
Exit from the last jump ...11
The exit to the ridge is visible ...12
View back ...13
Before the exit ... dangers await ....14
All that will slide down ...15
Cross in winter attire ....16
View of Peto žrelo and Škarjev rob17
Stol, Begunjščica and Vrtača ...18
Košuta ridge, left Veliki vrh, right Kladivo ...19
Kočne ...20
One group photo, then down we go ....21
Start of the descent into Pero žrelo22
23
View down Peto žrelo ....24
25
And again we are on the scree below Storžič ...26
Entrance to Kramarica ...27
One last look back ..... and off to beer ....28
Storžič. north face ... home we go ....29
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JusAvgustin10. 03. 2014 06:02:47
You nailed it well...mežikanje A couple of pics jezik
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jedriličar10. 03. 2014 08:27:43
Jus. Thanks again for the route info, beer is on me, won't forget...
Pics uploaded for those hesitating whether to go or not, just so they see that in these conditions the route is no big deal, a bit more experienced and technically shod get up no problem no belay... Last time we climbed Kramarca two years ago, end of January, all jumps were bare, had to belay 4 or 5 spots, rope and that took time and time, now you rocket up in three hours...velik nasmeh
Just so you see how we nailed Peto žrelo for descent... velik nasmehvelik nasmehvelik nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora10. 03. 2014 08:53:29
Old 12 years but worth reading, when they descended via Fifth Gully:
http://www2.arnes.si/~mcuder/dnevnik/020216.html

Me too, steeper on a few short spots, probably 60-70° otherwise top choice, varied route.
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ljubitelj gora10. 03. 2014 11:04:06
jedriličar but like a rocket, you have book winter ascents, once showered me I was like snowman, down flying ice, hard snow so more looking to ground, higher slabs that with little load slid into depth there were quite some also on descent!, on descent over Fifth Gully I took upper experience of two hikers into account, waited if it would "slide", but when kicking at start of Kramar's "trapez" to hard base didn't want to slide so easy, layer 1, if not slid then peeled off and flipped but some stayed, but in gully I didn't do that...anyway no one did before entry, some did on descent in gully. This time didn't go that way, cuz slope up to 75° had two hiking ice axes just warning so no one thinks this easy and like walk, tracks can be lost by wind too. Only for EXPERIENCED and even then must be someone who was there, harness, rope was ready.
Conditionally for this route, well watered, so no major difficulties, different story at the jumps.1
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jedriličar10. 03. 2014 11:08:10
@lg, sorry, maybe you and I weren't in the same route .... there really were no problems in Kramarica ... mežikanje
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ljubitelj gora10. 03. 2014 11:18:01
No big problems, but higher up slabs slid under us and the wind was blowing, I thought an avalanche was coming down as it smoked higher up, and ice cubes, small slides, those were the conditions on Saturday not yesterday. I liked it velik nasmeh
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JusAvgustin10. 03. 2014 11:31:21
Sorry, me too, but it really interests me where you have such a steep incline given that it's walking? Congrats anyway for the route but no need to exaggerate and mislead possible repeaters. As done this year the route is really easy and recommendable for most who are tired of the central and Šentanc...
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aonuk110. 03. 2014 11:57:32
Young sharpened roosters, open new thread ČVEK or KRNEKI and strut there....velik nasmeh
regards Vinko
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jedriličar10. 03. 2014 11:59:39
Look, @lg, now I'll put up a couple of pics from two years ago when Kramarica was bare, clean so you see what climbing in such conditions means. What you climbed (walked) on Saturday and I yesterday is a little harder than Y or Lenuh's in Begunjščica, but quite long and you need power in your legs, but as for technical difficulty currently it's very low. And pics follow ... mežikanje
Entry to Kramarica ...1
Second jump, two variants possible, left bypass is much easier ....2
Second jump right variant ... you don't even know what these two jumps are, now they are filled and you just go up ...3
Traverse past bivouac ... nasty if dry ...4
Belay stance for protecting the traverse under the bivouac ...5
Fourth jump, that one you picked yourself now and went up ...6
Those traverses above the fourth jump you don't remember, right? The ones you traversed naturally upwards ...7
And the last jump, which is now completely filled and has a bit of ice, perfect to pick into the hard ...8
Belay stance for the last jump, that fir tree you don't remember, which isn't out now, it's completely under snow ...9
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