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To Triglav?

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Lukito22. 06. 2020 10:42:37
Sunday, 21/6/2020

In the morning we started from Krma towards Planika. Above Prgarca towards Kurica there's a snow patch where you go a few meters on snow but we didn't use winter gear. Then you go next to the snow patch a few meters on rock without problem. At Konjsko sedlo we turned towards Planika, where it was already possible to feel stronger gusts of wind. The path to there is also without special features, I think you go a bit on snow once but again without using winter gear.

When we arrived at Planika we saw that Triglav was in fog and that it was blowing much stronger than forecasted (we chased one helmet because it was blown off); to avoid unnecessary comments, we checked the forecast and knew what it would be like, still we went to try our luck because we had a companion from another country who wanted to go to Triglav (anyway Kredarica is now her highest conquered peak, in her country the highest hill is about 350m high). We had harnesses, self-belay, crampons, ice axes and also 30m of extra rope. Great for fitness.

One of the companions then realized that she might get blown off on the ridge because she is quite light, so after a short consultation we weighed the options and headed towards Kredarica (Planika is still closed). When crossing towards Kredarica it's worth mentioning that the path is littered with scree so be careful. One fixed cable could use repair. Further on there's still one snow patch where we crossed with ice axe - I was kicking steps into the snow with my feet, we didn't put on crampons. Then we descended to the path that comes from Krma on the left side of Snežne Konti (if looking upwards). If you cross further it's snow patch everywhere. We met two mountaineers who apparently go to the summit multiple times and that day too they were at the sunny sunrise (dawn?). They also described the conditions. Then we sat a bit at Kredarica and descended via the path to Krma. The path is without special features.

Conditions (as far as I know):
1. From Krma to Planika or Kredarica there are no special features anywhere where you would need gear, I recommend an ice axe.
2. From Planika to M. Triglav there is some snow, but people have already walked without gear in running gear without boots - the choice is yours.
3. From Planika towards Skrbina there still appears to be quite a lot of snow.
4. From Kredarica towards M. Triglav there is some snow at the entry, they walked without special gear and reported that the rest is dry - the choice is yours.
5. The ridge M. Triglav - Triglav is dry according to reports from people who approached and they didn't use winter gear.

pasture1
Views2
Across Kurica3
Above the snowfield that we bypassed4
Views5
towards Planika6
M. Draski, Visevnik, V. Draski, Tosc7
towards Planika.8
edelweiss9
Moment of decision.10
towards Kredarica11
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Trobec22. 06. 2020 19:28:18
Very useful description of conditions nasmeh

p.s., has anyone hiked from Dolič direction recently?
(+1)like
Lukito23. 06. 2020 12:58:28
I saw this earlier:

From Vrata valley to Triglav. I didn’t like the snowy slope before Kredarica hut, so I went around via Dom Valentina Stanica and down to 2100 m and then on the main way to Kredarica hut which was fine. From Kredarica to Triglav was fine but windy. But then towards Koca na Dolicu was challenging. A lot of snow. Especially from Triglavska skrbina the few hundred meters before the terrain levels out a bit. And then around Dolic hut was hard - steep snow field. But I made it down to Trenta. 22. 6.

Pictures: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10158862959707697&set=pcb.714911515936785&type=3&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARBVwZHr5T-APvJHG7yOpymY3-WI5jfwfl-54XnDkgu-oI6f-S0u4Q09ehYLwqKj_JAhdenqRCGUfd12
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cybom23. 06. 2020 20:08:52
Does anyone know conditions on the paths:
-Luknja-Dolič-Hribarce-Prehodavci,
-Vodnikova koča-(Planika)-Kredarca,
-Kredarca-Staničeva-Prag-Vrata?
Thanks.
(+1)like
Trobec25. 06. 2020 13:26:48
I can now answer my previous question nasmeh From Dolič straight up there is still another snow patch, right below Dolič also quite an extensive snow patch. There yesterday I "rescued" 2 Germans who were completely without winter gear. We lent them our ice axes, descended the tricky part with them and brought the ice axes back up. Absolutely do not recommend without winter gear.

Planika-Kredarica: dry.
Kredarica-Stanič: over Rž there are extensive snow fields - winter gear. On the lower one too, but the terrain itself is less problematic.
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SurvivorAlen27. 06. 2020 14:55:45
Today hopped from Krma to Kredarica and summit.
Lower part completely dry, below Prgarca quite some water on path, flowing from livestock troughs (cows cheerfully greet along the way velik nasmeh ) so a bit of care on slippery limestone not amiss.
Below Kalvarija some smaller snow patches - no problem cross or bypass.
But quite some mud due to melting of last snow below Kredarica.

Only "problem" with snow is at entry to climbing part, when descending from Kredarica towards start of path below little Triglav. About 100m very steep section still deep in snow, otherwise snow softens already in morning, but caution not amiss. All who don't carry ice axe besides, highly recommend not leaving hiking poles at hut, but carry them for this part, as they come in very handy crossing this snow patch.
"Depot" for hiking poles was right below first bolt, where snow ends and step on rock.
Further completely no problem, just some small "patches" of snow which can be bypassed.
Weather today favorable, just before 9 on summit some fog that didn't allow great views, but quickly moved towards valley further.

p.s. "jam" was right in technical part below little Triglav, because quite a few Czechs/Slovaks piled up there and didn't let past, but visibly inexperienced and nicely cautious progressing. Nice to see they use complete self-belay gear and no "super g" masters seen.
Throughout whole tour met way more foreigners than locals. Holidays noticeable here.
Last parking in Krma also dominated by foreign plates.
Despite quite some groups on path I pushed a bit from start and reached Prgarca in 58min, then relaxed and on summit in 2h 45min
Anyway nice day on our Roof nasmeh

Hope the info on conditions helps someone.

Nice mountaineering greeting
Mists from the top.1
But Triglav always wins, even though it's 7eur =D.2
Nice profile of Krma valley3
4
(+7)like
anč28. 06. 2020 18:28:25
Nice description of conditions. But the term "superg masters" bothers me. Low boots are nowadays common footwear even for high mountains. Condition is just that you're used to them because of ankles. Otherwise they are light and breathable, so no blisters, soles cushion well, tread usually better than on gojzars. I myself hike exclusively in low boots, even on three-thousanders. And you were lucky not to meet any master, cuz on Škrlatica and Dolkova špica there were quite a few of us.
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redbull28. 06. 2020 19:29:42
Between 10 and 11 you could have met someone in Supergas. Also met someone sloshing in snow in flip-flops on soles, came over Prag. It was to laugh or to crynasmeh
(+4)like
Lukito29. 06. 2020 11:28:54
@anc superg masters like mountain runners are one thing. And that footwear is quite soft for 10-12h on rock. Then you have low approach shoes which are something else. And then gojzars, light, medium, heavy. Think because I wear gojzars I wear blisters too?

What holds on rock and cushions right? Both, depends on model. More gojzar advocate and wear them. On scree much better, cross some snow patch much safer. Seen many superg masters whose shoes also approx not for high mountains. No generalizing, eh? nasmeh
(+4)like
redbull29. 06. 2020 13:09:41
Especially with flip-flops they are good masters
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Lukito29. 06. 2020 13:20:03
Come on you if it's so easy velik nasmehvelik nasmehvelik nasmeh
(+1)like
Stoick29. 06. 2020 14:12:28
Few years ago watched doc about German who hiked mountains barefoot, even put crampons on bare foot.nasmeh
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parenzo29. 06. 2020 14:44:25
So Ötzi was well booted 5400 years ago, more salt in head than barefoot German and flip-floppers.
velik nasmeh
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PUHI29. 06. 2020 21:11:14
babble
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Istic30. 06. 2020 11:40:19
Krma - Planika - Triglav, doable without crampons or not?
(+1)like
mosovnik30. 06. 2020 11:53:58
Principally haven't posted long time cuz...., but for safety should still hold: high mountains-mandatory high boots and rest, thus proper clothes (sprains, gear etc.).
Years really do "their", experiences stay, more if "untouched".
Good luck wherever.
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SurvivorAlen30. 06. 2020 20:30:13
@anč, we misunderstood, with supergami I meant Nikes, which are nicely black and white, look good on Instagram pics zavijanje z očmi
I also ran in mountain boots, of course that's a whole different world than what some wear - maybe from Deichmann for 16eur, but nice for pics huh zavijanje z očmi velik nasmeh
I think everyone met such a "Czech" slipping on wet limestone at 2000m with worn soles ...

Again agree with @mosovnik, for high mountains high boots, gojzarji ... I do most ascents in them, but admit (esp on known trails) I crave faster pace and take running backpack and trail shoes. Still say mountain running ain't safe and don't promote it. But once you start, hard to quit this great sport.
Don't wanna clutter thread more, back to folks with conditions info and day on our daddy nasmeh

LpA
(+5)like
robertk2830. 06. 2020 22:36:01
Krma - Planika - Triglav;
on Friday it went without crampons, but I didn't go over Kurica (there's a substantial snowfield there) but a detour towards Kredarica, then before the start of Kalvarija left to Konjsko sedlo and then on to Planika. To Planika there's more than 10 m of snow, but it wasn't problematic.
From Planika to the summit the snowfield is only at the start, when you have to climb the first 20-30 m. Snow is soft, so crampons aren't needed, ice axe in hand just in case. Then the individual remaining snow patches can be bypassed...
(+2)like
Lukito1. 07. 2020 09:52:27
Snowfield over Kurica is a few steps to get to right side, then can bypass it - we did last weekend.
(+1)like
Tal1. 07. 2020 16:13:49
What's the situation like on Tominškova to Kredarica? Planning next week and have neither crampons nor ice axe.
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