Greetings to everyone. Yesterday I agreed with admin Rok to include the alpinistični vzpon category among difficulties. For better understanding and so that not every described pathless becomes AS, it's important that you know what alpinistična smer, AS hereafter, is: climbing route in snowy, icy or dry conditions, over 100m high, where at least 60% is at least I. difficulty grade on UIAA scale.
I have quite a few new "paths" in preparation, especially in Rute (Martuljek), hope my descriptions will help you discover the unused world. Probably not superfluous to note that NOT every pathless is AS... For easier understanding:
Alpinist difficulty scale
Alpinists have their classification that roughly tells what difficulties are on a route. Alpinists don't talk about paths, but routes. They give them all possible and impossible names. Don't be surprised if there's a route "Štefkina roža" or "Janezov strgan čevelj". Alpinists have a sense of humor too. Anyway, their difficulty scale interests us.
I. grade - EASY
Wall just becomes a wall, not too steep, plenty of holds and steps. It is sufficiently structured, no problems on ascent or descent. Rope rarely or never used, hands mostly for balance. On such places there are sometimes secured paths, mostly demanding secured paths, rarely very demanding secured paths.
WARNING: If it's a crumbly specialty, the stated difficulty is very deceptive. Especially Martuljki are full of such specialties (Gornja Kopica, Veliki Oltar) that spice up seemingly low difficulty.
II. grade - MODERATELY DIFFICULT
Maybe moderately difficult for alpinist with full gear, but for hiker it's a very demanding pathless or alpinistični vzpon. Wall is steeper, it is necessary to follow the "three points of support" rule, sometimes need to place a peg for protection or later descent. Need knowledge to overcome certain spots. Descend by rope often. With hiking boots can still use friction effect. Marked paths on such spots are without exception very demanding secured paths.
WARNING: We have lots of walls (what lots, most!) crumbly, so this difficulty gets quite extra fuel. Especially don't climb pulling outwards, but load holds inwards with hands.
III. grade - DIFFICULT
Short and concise! Wall properly steep, holds and steps not many. Need to know techniques how to overcome various configurations. This is the extreme limit for hiking footwear, steps too small for safe grip on hiking boot sole, but can't climb such steepness with friction in hiking boots. Pegs needed for belay stations (don't forget to retrieve), descend only by rope. Here + and - start. Hikers here most often need experienced alpinist guide. Such difficulties on rare sections of demanding secured climbing paths and thoroughly bolted.
WARNING: Same as for II, but with extra spices.
IV. grade - VERY DIFFICULT
I believe so. Characteristic of walls of this class is great exposure, holds and steps few and can be small, intermediate protection essential. Only the lowest rank "four" is accessible to the most trained hikers with hiking boots. No point mentioning need for knowledge of all climbing techniques and appropriate motor skills. Almost mandatory to ensure proper protection and/or company of experienced alpinist guide. Marked paths here rarely meet such a spot. Such spot full of steel, clear as day.
WARNING: Same as for III, but with extra spices.
No point describing more, as beyond reach of alpinistically untrained hiker. Already IV. grade more or less beyond, but added for comparison. Alpinist grades go to XI. grade, but already at VIII. grade no point talking what difficulties await alpinist. However... alpinism is a top sport where technical achievement is primary. Mountaineering is an amateur physical culture activity, where technical achievement is secondary, but cultural-aesthetic experience is in the foreground. Of course many alpinists are hikers at heart.
Source: Jani Bele: Proti vrhovom (© 2000 PZS)
Best regards! Juš
P.S. In case of any question I'm available on ZS!