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m're 1 / Recent messages

m're 1 - Recent messages

Started topics:
m're 17. 08. 2009 19:06:45
Part of Wednesday and part of Thursday on the mentioned classic of Martuljek. From the cirque to Velika Dnina, sleeping in the one (in the canister that evening four of us slept - definitely maximum for lying position for the mentioned bivouac). Second day over the notch between Oltar and Ponca and SW ridge to the summit, descent via ''''normal route'''' past the two to Vrata.
Real, authentic Martuljek tour in every sense - slender, sharp ridges and peaks, lots of crumbly and much less good rock, red shades that especially come alive in the morning and evening, solitude, wild beauty, chamois,... in short: Great experience.
Matej and my humble self enjoyed the tour.
I won't describe it, because Habjan did that job very well, especially Brane and Mariborčan. I only add that the initial part to the notch is currently (reason recent heavy rains, harsh winter,..) EXTREMELY crumbly, recommend extra caution. We progressed from the jump to the slab in a rope team for that reason. The enjoyable part of the ridge is still enjoyable...
m're 126. 07. 2009 22:17:30
After the mountain camp for children and youth at Drežniške Ravne, another jump to the Friulian Dolomites (for me they are Carnians). Goal: the beauty Monte Duranno, company: friend and expert of Karnians and Dolomites Matija.
On Thursday in the evening hours past the village Erat to the starting point along the ''''Peruvian-Bolivian'''' exposed road above the gorge to the end of the road. Along path 374 to Maniago hut, where we slept. Second day early start, first goal forcella Duranno, where in the company of ibexes we breakfasted and put on our climbing harnesses and necessary gear. Path - direction marked with pitons - goes first under, along the ridge then turns along the long ledge into the heart of the south face of Duranno to the central ''''channel''''-gully, which cuts through the entire wall. Here climbing begins: first a couple of pitches right beside the channel then turns into the channel itself and follows it to the cirque under the Summit. Through easier slabs and quite exposed ridge we reach the top. In the summit book only a few pages are filled, although the first entry in it is from 2004.
Descent along the same route, at the hardest spots (4-5) we abseil on rope. On the long ledge we meet ibex alpha male - ''''boss'''', who calmly hops in front of us as if wanting to show where the easiest path goes.
Follows quick descent from the saddle to the hut and after lunch along the already known path 374 to the car.
Trip highlights: beautiful hills, wilderness, friendly hut staff, solitude (on the entire trip we met one person and some hut visitors). Recommend to all who are used to moving roped and/or solo climbing III. grade and rappelling. Anchors are arranged - bolts, here and there also a piton. Snowfields on the path are there, but can be completely avoided, so winter gear can stay home.
The trip is otherwise (except the initial part of serious climbing) well described in the book by A.Mašer: Dolomites - dream mountains. Whoever knows Italian can find something on the net too.
Comments:
m're 110. 06. 2010 15:56:57
Was about a week ago in these parts:
http://www.turni-klub-gora.si/~frances/razmere/ - Ledinski vrh from Belska Kočna (27.5)
Definitely still some snow in the cirque, in the gully itself - climbing part I think shouldn't be much. If it's accidentally ''snow-covered'' you still have Ledinski vrh as reserve.
m're 17. 06. 2010 07:09:17
Yesterday we climbed the south gully of Skuta. The route itself completely dry. Otherwise there's still quite some snow on Skuta. West path - steep part of the notch dry, further towards Veliki Podi softened snow, here and there ice underneath - careful. East side above Mali Podi - lower ledge, slabs still under snow, on Streža it looked dry. Definitely ice axe needed for this variant, crampons if harder.
m're 12. 06. 2010 08:55:29
Complicating things around poles really isn't necessary. Unbreakable poles don't exist - except maybe cast iron ones.
Price/quality ratio - no general rule. But it's true that more expensive brands usually give more warranty, are a bit lighter, have better grip... etc. (the catch is that warranty doesn't cover breakage and theft, which is usually the reason for buying new ones nasmeh) and availability of spare parts, which are expensive jezen.
Basically whatever you buy you won't go far wrong.
m're 123. 05. 2010 15:16:33
Not quite yet. But they are already a bit wilted, some nice ones still in the shadiest spots.
I'm talking about Plaški Rovt, higher up probably better.
m're 115. 04. 2010 15:18:15
Something similar doesn't interest me either - Does anyone have any current info on the (im)passability of the road to Planina Blato?
Thanks in advance for all useful replies.
m're 127. 03. 2010 07:32:22
Skied on Kamniško-Savinjski Komni about a good week ago. Conditions: crust, hard on the summit. Given the temperatures and humidity prevailing currently everywhere in the high mountains, except perhaps on the highest peaks, thaw and nice spring slush - hard to traverse classically on foot - skis or snowshoes almost mandatory.
I think Sunday morning will be the right time. Otherwise wait until it firms up a bit, then it will be the real thing nasmeh...judging by the pictures, it will really be hard to beat last year's
m're 126. 02. 2010 09:17:08
Problems with balls besides Easter caused by narrower and probably unpadded leg loop straps.
Problem known - don't know why. Harness basically for via ferratas, where falls less frequent than sport climbing and practically hang in harness only rests on modern hard via ferratas. If I speculate, full harnesses with padded straps much pricier, would show in price.
Agree with Mesetar - two-piece smart with heavy pack, no rear load or ultra-light lower part suffices.
m're 13. 02. 2010 15:51:43
To the summit trailbroken, both by hikers and tourers - checked by a friend.
m're 130. 01. 2010 07:52:42
On Thursday in Koritarica with Jure. Climbed second icefall and lower part of enjoyable gully - per Kresal guidebook, maybe wrong. Second icefall nice, enjoyable gully less so. Some pics at:
http://www.turni-klub-gora.si/~frances/razmere/
m're 122. 01. 2010 15:41:59
More precise description on Tk gora. If I summarize briefly:
Now both variants are tracked. Over Kofce gora also especially on foot. On the summer path on return we noticed a larger group of skiers - so ski track. If on foot I suggest over Kofce gora, otherwise summer.

Avalanche terrain here and there. Avoid gullies, bowls where there is some drifted snow. Otherwise I think there shouldn't be a problem.
m're 122. 01. 2010 08:19:51
Yesterday skiing on Great Peak. Conditions are also very good for hiking currently - hard, but not icy. Some pictorial impressions on
m're 114. 01. 2010 11:18:40
My favorite is the slightly wild approach by the waterfall in Veliki Graben or along the ridge right above it. From shady approaches, the hunting path is a real sweetie that runs ~100m below the ridge and connects marked paths between Gontami and Mah'ček.
Of marked variants, I like best the one from Sle.
m're 111. 01. 2010 13:35:29
Heated debate as there hasn't been in a long time...
Yes, most likely we would talk quite differently if it ended tragically.
My thinking would go more in the direction indicated by Geolog79 and Viharnik.
In mountains, especially snowy ones, certain rules apply. One of them is that in shady sides of high mountains you normally don't go during hard winter. Snow is usually less settled and more unstable than on sunny sides. Just the opposite in spring, when snow on sunny sides is usually more unstable, things usually worsen during the day. Along with this I don't mean that these rules are 100% and always hold true. There are exceptions, which you learn from experience, own or others', but that requires quite some mountain kilometers. But I won't bore - better read something on the topic, follow besides weather also avalanche forecast (ours, Italian, Austrian) or even better go to appropriate training (alpine school, snow avalanche safety days, etc.).
So: Equipped I believe, experienced - I wouldn't say, rather naive. Thank God it turned out as it did. I hope someone learned something from this.
I dare say yes, everyone who seriously goes to mountains and/or climbs, ski tours, boards has at some point done some prime stupidity. I have too, probably will some more, but hope as few fateful as possible. nasmeh
We must realize that there would be few of us if every mistake was punished. Sometimes you need some luck. Say whatever you want.
m're 18. 01. 2010 07:58:50
All links listed by geolog79 are useful. For avalanche conditions themselves, besides ARSO avalanche forecast, useful for our hills and wider area:
- for Julijce: even in Slovenian!
http://www.regione.fvg.it/asp/meteo_valanghe/bollettino/bollettino_sloc.pdf
-another Austrian, for Karavanke: in German, for others google translate:
http://www.lawinenwarndienst.ktn.gv.at/143249_DE-
m're 16. 01. 2010 15:47:07
Otherwise I'm more inclined to Igor's stance, but still.
Who and why needs some gear? Who when buying a car asks why all from A to Z can do over 150 km/h if max allowed speed on roads is officially only 130 km/h? Gear for the hills is currently quite fashionable. That's how it is whether we like it or not. Fact is today's average Šmarna gora visitor is in many cases better equipped than pioneer conquerors of highest peaks in Alps, Himalayas etc.
I still think it's a bit less bad if people in hills are over-equipped than the opposite.
Thing can become dangerous if the other side is neglected, which is necessary for safety in mountains - knowledge and experience. Gear can indeed give false sense of security and can't replace lack in aforementioned categories. Quarks won't help anyone if they don't master basic ice axe arrest technique and no one will dig anyone out of avalanche if beacon is off and packed in backpack - just two most banal examples.

         
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