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Jalovec

Kozorog8. 05. 2011 14:54:32

lijaneja... really nice views around there and you captured almost all of them in photos... super... But I'm also interested why it wasn't ideal.. (wind, postholing, ice... or something else...).

Panda sorry if you're allergic to someone asking questions.. then I can't help you... I'm also interested why it wasn't ideal and hope to get an answer..

Lijaneja thanks!

velesa8. 05. 2011 17:15:50

Lijaneja, thanks for the nice views and peak names! Nice and I think also bold tour.
My soles are itching to go up there. But since I don't have much experience with winter tours, more detailed info on the tour itself and conditions would be welcome.
Thanks and all the best!

lijaneja8. 05. 2011 17:21:53

Ha, a trifle.
Visibility excellent, summer sun, complete calm, even at the summit, in the couloir just right hard snow and no slush.
Until Thursday, when I planned the tour, mornings were cold and ascent on frozen snow is pure joy. But Saturday's thaw and strong morning sun partly spoiled this pleasure on an otherwise very short section, not even worth mentioning.
That's about 80 meters horizontal and 20m vertical above Loški žleb (see penultimate photo). This ascent part faces exactly south and since the sun was strong and snow little, ice axe and crampons didn't have optimal support, so a bit more caution was needed.
That's all about the "ideality" of this ascent that raised so much dust.
Let me mention that Jalovec in spring time is my regular repertoire, but conditions and circumstances are different every year.
best regards Tone

JusAvgustin8. 05. 2011 18:07:12

nice tour, congrats! if it's not true just ask around a bit... mežikanje

, once again praiseworthy tour to the crystal

IgorZlodej9. 05. 2011 16:28:50

As my rescuer colleagues told me yesterday there was quite some stuff flying in the couloir on Saturday, so a cold morning alone means nothing if you return through the ozebnik in the afternoon or later. Basically you need pretty good luck if you can't assess the dangers.

IgorZlodej12. 05. 2011 15:34:29

After Triglav and Mangart today also to Jalovec, because Jalovec is the king of our mountains.
From Flori in Zapodnu to TNP hunters' hut, then to Mali kot (Jalovška škrbina), over Goličica wall which is mostly dry to Ozebnik summit, above Jezerca to the ridge and summit. Descent to Jezerca, and through Jalovec ozebnik to path entry to Jalovška škrbina, lower part snowy and partly icy, and over Mali kot back to hunters' hut and to Zapodnu. Upper part still quite snowy, no bergschrund yet under SE wall of Goličica, crampons, ice axe, helmet very necessary, even more experience and knowledge. Otherwise very good conditions for this time and these conditions.

near the hunting hut two century-old spruces were felled, pity

SE wall of Goličica, behind Jalovec summit

in Goličica wall mostly only grippable pitons, self-belaying not feasible

Veliki couloir, yesterday it was skiable

area above Loški žleb towards Jalovec ridge

summit part of the ridge was snow-covered, lower rocky

at Kotovo sedlo there is still quite some snow

from Ozebnik a secured path leads to Jalovčeva škrbina

to the valley still about an hour, otherwise ascent and descent in 6:30 hours

MaticP20. 06. 2011 14:08:18

I'm wondering if anyone has any info on conditions (snow, amount) on Jalovec?

MaticP24. 06. 2011 09:44:05

Here, I'll give myself an answer! There's still snow on Jalovec and without crampons no go!!! nasmeh

JusAvgustin24. 06. 2011 15:03:21

nice tour you made. Congrats, otherwise fact is that jalov`c is crystal and most beautiful in winter... nasmeh

sergejjj24. 06. 2011 16:10:55

I must add to MaticaP's comment that visibility was occasionally almost zero!!!
To the ridge visibility satisfactory, on the other side approx. 3 meters!!

cupkovic9. 07. 2011 20:19:29

Today on Jalovec there were quite a few of us (I counted 10). I started before Erjavčeva hut on Vršič at 5:00 and it took me less than 5 hours to the top. For the ascent I chose the path (turnoff Mali kot) over Jalovška škrbina and wall of Goličica. There is still plenty of snow (snowfield approx. 250m) on the exit part of Goličica - scree (or that exit part of Ozebnik). For the crossing I used ice axe and crampons. When you reach the saddle between Jalovec wall and Loški žleb you need to cross a small steep snowfield (without ice axe you are tempting fate). Those going from Špiča side will have to cross only that short steep snowfield! Jalovec wall crumbly with faded marks. Where there are no marks there are cairns (marks at key points renewed). On the ridge it blew like a hundred devils. If you hid on south side no wind, then on ridge very dangerous gusts. On descent still beer at shelter under Špička and finished circular tour at Vršič. Path from Špička to Vršič drags on angry