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Jalovec

Klepar12. 03. 2014 18:29:13

As for avalanche beacons, I can't imagine people going without. That's mandatory gear in winter, besides crampons, ice axe and helmet!

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JusAvgustin12. 03. 2014 19:00:48

"Such conditions as now I haven't remembered for a long time"... but no, Kucler will still spout his. Well written, Klepar!

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jedriličar12. 03. 2014 19:17:11

@Klepar: you say you went up the normal route. How does the winter chimney seem to you? Is it filled? Would you put some pic up, please ... winking

viharnik12. 03. 2014 19:32:02

Yes, sad mountaineering awareness. Today despite settled snow I was probably one of the few with full avalanche gear + ice axe and crampons, helmet, goggles... weight up or down. You fly e.g. into some gully then without gear you can't climb out and can only freeze overnight.

ljubitelj gora12. 03. 2014 19:43:22

Klepar or GRS, conditions were not bad, not super though, as you wrote to me.

redbull12. 03. 2014 20:57:06

Doing snow profiles is great,, but everywhere you go to do it, there is snow cover that won't be stable,, so you can stay home all year.

Klepar13. 03. 2014 08:21:49

The pics will stay nicely with me, because I don't want anyone to decide wrongly based on photos.
Kucler, theory is one thing, practice is another... You also need experience to come to certain conclusions.
Have a good time, I just wanted to give a reply to that offensive writing. Otherwise, such forums are really useless to me and often harmful.

ljubitelj gora13. 03. 2014 10:07:52

Already many very experienced people have been carried away by an avalanche (because it has no timetable), what and who I won't write so it won't be offensive writing again by you. Just on Sunday there was a whole mess right near that location where you were, that two ski tourers were supposedly buried. redbull, I also encountered excellent conditions, snow profile or better said couldn't do it, because snow was compact, that was December, January and I won't tempt fate, nor search for detours, limits where one could still go or. where snow would hold. jezik

Rok Šilc13. 03. 2014 10:58:04

All who have so much experience... can you advise me based on weather conditions if it would be worth going to the top early Saturday morning? What's the path like? Has anyone been up there these days?

peter4613. 03. 2014 12:04:40

What Klapar wrote is the best post on hribi.net in more than a year on the topic of conditions for bomreku non-hiking path: "Anyway you need experience to come to certain conclusions ..Otherwise such forums are just useless and often harmful to me." exactly that!!!

juš goes alone into the wall and gully and drives people who are self-taught, have no knowledge and no experience and are his personal choice. ok everyone can do that -but then forum posts are pure hypocrisy because here only counts the one who was once in AO etc. those he drives are no AO but he gives them what Klepar writes about: firsthand experience!!! and that's much much more than any AO where you theorize and do exams on paper. the mountain isn't on paper anyway and you need experience and experience and experience to come to conclusions when yes what and when no.

LG is self-taught without those who would drive him along and in that sense he is for me one of the most tragic figures here up. but his paths are hats-off level also in the sense of what all he learned himself- and instead of understanding him, that he is what he is you constantly put him down. that's very not ok

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ljubitelj gora13. 03. 2014 12:48:21

If, despite the pictures, I titled it, there would again flare up the debate about how irresponsible I am and that I went to dance with a symphony of avalanches.

Rok Šilc13. 03. 2014 12:55:10

Conditions???

ljubitelj gora13. 03. 2014 12:55:42

2nd degree

Zebdi13. 03. 2014 12:59:05

peter46, what exactly did you want to say? That it's hypocritical because Juš sometimes takes someone along on a tour, while on the forum he refuses to give misleading info and stresses safety? To me that seems responsible zmeden

As for LG, let him do whatever he wants in the mountains for all I care. That's totally OK. But it's really not OK that he misleads others with his posts. Or is it?

Oh, about the AOs; would you tell us which AO you were in? When I was in alpine school, we had group tours every weekend and tons of field exercises. To me that doesn't really fit into theorizing and paper exams?

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Supersport13. 03. 2014 13:02:00

Is Juš some star-pro on the totem forum who's already circled half the Himalayas, I feel.

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jedriličar13. 03. 2014 13:09:17

Now I'll write in Croatian because peter46 and klepar got me a bit annoyed.
First klepar: look, if you don't want to post summit pics so that we, somewhat less or more experienced, can see and draw our conclusions based on them, that's OK and it's your right, but then you shouldn't have posted at all, anyway such forums are useless and harmful to you, it seems you posted just to settle scores with lg ??? zmeden

peter46: I'm not a top alpinist, but damn I'm not a novice either, I almost always take someone with me on a tour or some alpinistic ascent, because I know that's the only way people gain experience, unfortunately in my AO I didn't have that chance, the elders didn't share even half a percent, it was finish school and fend for yourself buddy. That's why when I post summit pics on the forum I don't do it to brag where I've been but so that other less experienced see that it's not all Himalaya and no need to make an elephant out of a fly, and that with some experience, technical knowledge and self-confidence you can do it yourself, not wait for some old experienced fox to lead you, because you mostly won't meet one. So if that's misleading others, less experienced, then fine, I'll keep posting summit pics and misleading them, and it's up to them to decide if they'll go or not based on my posts to some tour or ascent.
That's it, nice regards mežikanje

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redbull13. 03. 2014 13:16:55

bravo jedriličar,

JusAvgustin13. 03. 2014 17:08:31

Today on Jalovec through the winter chimney, the only one trodden. Conditions, well it's hard to get better ones. Haven't approached Kristal in winter in such conditions yet. Early hour is a must here, but what when after 10am everything softens. Track for hikers done, touring ski track too. Ozebnik is skateable, approach below Ozebnik hard with some slush. Sunny Ozebnik only place where ice balls form, so attention needed! Winter chimney never been so made, normal route NOT trodden! For novices belay recommended from entry rock to Jalovec roof. Ridge hard, no crampons! Depart at 4am from Planica recommended. With me Andrej and Matej. Cross-sections by Ljubitelj gora on path irrelevant, made in depressions and flat terrain. Hard for conditions to be better than today. Maybe smart to wait for next cooldown, Ozebnik full of projectiles.

Best, Juš and Co.