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Jalovec

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JusAvgustin18. 08. 2021 06:14:42
Snow field below wall entrance, wall wet and slippery, lots of dirt from melting snow. Path over Kotovo sedlo passable no problem.
Better up Škrbina and down to sedlo, not reverse. As of 14.8.2021
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Naprosyn22. 08. 2021 23:25:14
For illustration, photo of the remaining snowfield from 18.8.2021 - the bypass is not problematic, but staying clean will be hard.
On the circular path Škrbina-summit-Kotovo sedlo everything is ok, except that I stared into the fog for one hour at the top and after three hours (and onwards through the whole day) watched the sunny inversion from the valley.
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mikkeni1. 09. 2021 17:42:53
Hi, where do you recommend going up or down from Jalovec (up Škrbina and down past the shelter) or reverse? Thanks
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redbull1. 09. 2021 18:05:53
If you have to start from Vršič, definitely up Škrbina first, for the descent you'll decide; if the wall seemed hard to you, then better descent past the shelter. In the end you'll see it's the same bore, just longer past Špicka.
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mirank1. 09. 2021 21:23:02
I don't see Vršič mentioned anywhere, but Dean is right. Today from Flori in Trenta up over the notch to Špička dol. And everyone in the team agreed with the choice of order.
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geppo2. 09. 2021 07:25:41
1.9.2021 Jalovec
With mates from Tamar over Škrbina and down to the start via Kotovo sedlo.
No issues over Škrbina. Snow patch in gully no problem. Wall dry, just pegs and rock cold, warmed fingers with breath. Quite a few visitors on top. Descent started very carefully. Wall full of scree and slip risk. First part without protections!! Faster in second half where there are protections.
Meanwhile a group of three visitors from Ormož overtook us, if I asked them they would probably say it doesn't matter which side you climb or descend. Me, at least 40 years older than them, would say easier down Škrbina - that's my opinion! On ascent over Škrbina the rock is not so littered.
Otherwise no other features on the route!
lp
Descent from the scree field to the wall where the ascent begins.1
in the wall2
Exit from the first section.3
Now on the sunny side.4
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towards the ridge6
Ridge and summit of Jalovec.7
Jalovec summit8
Descent to Kotovo sedlo begins.9
Everything is strewn with scree and there is slipping hazard.10
Tone takes a moment of rest.11
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The descent is quite demanding.13
The path leads along broken ledges14
Need to descend carefully15
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Before the bivouac, we meet again with friends from Ormož and have a short picnic17
They stay in the sun, we descend into the shade18
One more moment of sun19
View back20
and for a beer21
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lijaneja2. 09. 2021 08:42:34
Not one pic of surrounding peaks from 'crystal'?
Roughly what time at bivouac?
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geppo2. 09. 2021 09:56:49
Tone, we were at the bivouac at 15:40.
Here are more photos.
lp
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lijaneja2. 09. 2021 13:42:03
Great, Zlatko. Just at that time I was at Lopa (right at the bottom on your first pic) and occasionally heard talking from that direction. From there you prob don't have any shot towards Šit!?
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djimuzl2. 09. 2021 13:49:27
Wow, am I really seeing snow on the side ridge of Travnik and below Šite? Or optical illusion?
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geppo2. 09. 2021 14:03:39
This is all I have
lp
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and also for you djimuzl - a bit closer3
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lijaneja2. 09. 2021 14:26:28
Thanks for the effort, Zlatko.
It's probably just optics, Marjan. But there's still one patch of snow on the scree below Kola.
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greg832. 09. 2021 15:31:27
@geppo: Super pics of the descent part from summit to Kotovo sedlo.nasmeh Those who haven't gone down there yet can see from pics that this descent ain't no joke mainly because of loose stuff on slabs and poor pro in upper part.
I went up myself with buddy a week ago down through Kotovo sedlo then Škrbina. It's true that the Goličica wall ain't easy descent either, only pitons and few of them. velik nasmeh
Real kingly tour that sticks in memory. velik nasmeh
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mirank2. 09. 2021 15:37:36
Nice day yesterday up there, others have already written enough about the pathsmežikanje...
before the hut left and then shortly right,,,1
the clouds over the notch disappeared later2
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in the wall of Goličica4
above the glacier5
on the ridge a little below the summit6
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the sun's reflection from the bivouac on Špik was visible above the nose8
a slightly different view of Jalovec and Mangrt9
and to the shelter10
almost 4 decades ago Franček described a pile of boulders11
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Grive25. 09. 2021 20:18:43
Hi,

does anyone know if access to the Vršič-Špička Shelter path from Limarica (path start in Limarica) is possible?
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lijaneja25. 09. 2021 20:44:21
Super third picture. Lopa and Šite.
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redbull16. 10. 2021 21:16:11
Kristal (16.10.21)

Snow started a few hundred meters below the glacier and surprisingly held us up there in places. Snow on the glacier was hard, annoying crust in some parts. Full layer of ice in the chimney, so we could climb over it, of course more with the help of rocks (hands). Over the roof to the ridge, where a wonderful continued ascent to the summit awaited us. It was great footing. Sun on top. Descended the normal route (middle softened snow) back to the glacier. Climbed a bit towards Goličica for a better view back, no proper gear for more. Across the glacier, especially the upper part, utmost caution due to icy base. No one in the direction of our today's hike, but Dom in Tamar was packed, of course outdoors.
Start of the white base1
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Small jump7
Chimney, made just for us :)8
Start of the roof worse with snow9
A bit higher more white10
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Jalovec14
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On this section poor footing (soft)18
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Goličica21
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lijaneja16. 10. 2021 21:42:54
The 29th picture shook me againnasmeh.
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redbull16. 10. 2021 21:50:51
But there are anchors made for abseil, if I'm not mistaken Tone (from Lopa)
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lijaneja17. 10. 2021 09:13:50
I think not, Dejan. As far as I know, anchors are in Šite, not in Lopa, since apart from dangerous scree and Mačja police which Jovan mentions, there are no major difficulties.
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