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Mala Mojstrovka

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Parkeljc31. 03. 2011 19:11:07
Today we climbed the preparatory couloir towards Mala Mojstrovka. Conditions below (at Vršič) were not encouraging at all, as it had sunk practically to the entrance of the couloir. In the couloir conditions were changing, from slush, packed and hard snow, to slightly icy crust, finally just below the summit also wet snow. Right at the top a massive snow slab looms frighteningly into the couloir. After summiting, descent via the classic southern path through the gate, where we were surprised by fairly large ice slabs that flew from the wall opposite Grebenec. In the lower part you have to be very careful, as the snow sinks in places up to the waist and it can be very unpleasant when your foot hits rock.
up the preparatory gully to the top1
entrance to the gully2
left of the Prisojnik gully3
entrance to the gully4
towards the cliff at the end of the gully5
view back6
another one right below the summit7
before exiting the gully8
our group is stepping..9
so steep you'll faint10
cream
11
had to hold her a bit so she doesn't fall..
12
Velika Mojstrovka13
one last look back14
towards Vršič15
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sin narave31. 03. 2011 23:41:15
I join Parkeljc, as I was there too. Otherwise the narrowest part of the couloir was good in my opinion (hard snow). And those planning to go up this route in the coming days, while the weather conditions are still quite good, I recommend starting from Vršič no later than 8 am, because after that the sun already softens the snow and it's all slush to the entrance of the couloir. Nice greeting and good luck. nasmeh
In the gully.1
On the top of Mala Mojstrovka.2
Under the Triglav face. 3
A little below the top of the gully.4
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ladko7. 04. 2011 18:22:38
On Saturday I'd go up the preparatory one, has anyone been up this week, is there still enough snow to go normally up the couloir?
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JusAvgustin7. 04. 2011 18:36:23
check the forecast temperatures for the weekend. zero above 3000+
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ladko7. 04. 2011 19:03:40
Thanks Jus, I know that. Last weekend I was on duty but it didn't go, hope by Saturday it won't take everything, and the snow slab worries me a bit. If anyone was there this week or goes tomorrow to check, let them report how it is.

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sebanakis7. 04. 2011 19:13:01
on Saturday they had glacier ice over the opast, and it held nicelyvelik nasmeh
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ladko7. 04. 2011 21:02:53
Yeah hope the opast stays where it is, on Saturday then I'll go up.
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u2anja8. 04. 2011 10:55:19
This morning apparently the opast gave way and avalanche carried off my boyfriend and father, right below the top of Pripravniška grapa, so they slid down the whole gully to the end!
They lost all climbing gear, so I'd ask the honest finder please to bring the found gear to Koča na Gozdu, or call 040/200-336(klemen) or contact via email: nemelknezre@gmail.com - lost items are: Fischer Tour X-treme skis, 2 Petzl Quark ice axes, 2 Cassin ice axes, helmet, poles, gloves,...maybe more...mrk pogled
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pikec18. 04. 2011 11:07:55

Hi
Just wondering if at least everything is okay with them?
Best Grega
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u2anja8. 04. 2011 11:25:28
For now I don't know exactly what's with dad, the guy is (besides pains) okay - both are in Jesenice... so we're waiting...mrk pogled
the only luck is that they survived at all, given they went down the whole gully to the bottom!! I think our winter climbing in the hills is over... well, at least mine...mrk pogled
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mukica8. 04. 2011 13:26:48
I wish both the quickest recovery and as little pain as possible (physical and mental), as I assume you don't forget such an experience easily.zmeden
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Gric8. 04. 2011 13:37:01
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that everything is okay!

Sin_narave on the third picture a bit higher: did your legs shake a bit at this news?
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heinz8. 04. 2011 15:25:54
This morning I learned about the rescue action. I hope it'll be as good as possible with them! I have to say, when I looked at the upper pics yesterday, I thought: hopefully no one is near when it collapses - very soon. Sadly, as we hear, it wasn't so.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed for them too!
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ladko8. 04. 2011 17:17:54
I hope it's not worse, I'm crossing my fingers for both too. Tomorrow I planned to go via the preparatory route but I'll see what's up now, probably I'll take the normal path. Still I'll check for some piece of gear.
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JusAvgustin8. 04. 2011 17:53:35
Sooner or later it had to break loose, accident for two climbers... otherwise it's not for high-mountain people... it's too hot!
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sin narave8. 04. 2011 19:22:16
I wish both a speedy recovery.

Gric - I felt awe from the start of the gully. We were already wondering back then exactly about this hazard, how long it would hold. It gave way just today when they went to enjoy the mountain world. Thanks to the mountain gods for releasing them from their embrace so they'll be with family and friends for many more years. Once again, I wish them a speedy recovery. Best greetings to all and safe in the mountains.
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JusAvgustin8. 04. 2011 19:29:52
With this photo there's definitely no bragging; otherwise, the more we write, the more it seems like we're talking to a wall! But do you realize the outside temperatures?! Do you think they're suitable? Some climb, others bash their heads! Any gullying and flank grazing is discouraged... oh, I forgot, we're talking to a wall! I wish them 100% recovery. Otherwise, I'm convinced that someone among you will go gullying tomorrow... now that the slab is down, charge!
1
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strelec19548. 04. 2011 20:19:51
Jus, when reading your comment I can't pass by without responding. Believe me, after 30 years of hiking and climbing in the mountains I don't need your advice and... If nobody has told you yet, this portal is for informing and discussing current conditions and state on the routes, not when someone can go where. Believe me, almost all know that current conditions are not suitable for ice climbing and gully climbing.zmeden
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edokrnic9. 04. 2011 07:59:30
Unfortunately, every forum has some know-it-all, who in my opinion can be one too, but he must share it with others while insulting everyone indiscriminately. One day he might realize that his behavior was at least inappropriate, but... I'm trying to ignore it, but if his handwriting is in every single post, then...
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ladko9. 04. 2011 13:25:17
I went up already at 6, snow was sinking, it was rotten; I got to the preparatory couloir and a bit into it, then I decided for two good thingsnasmeh - turned back, and on the way I also found skis, ice axe, gloves and took them to the hut in the woods. From the couloir to the parking loaded, I sweated more than on the way upvelik nasmeh. Otherwise I turned back because on top there's still a dangerous and big cornice, not everything has collapsed yetzadrega.
Here I found some equipment1
This ledge is hanging dangerously2
Equipment that I found3
Too hot today, probably the end until next winter or frost.4
5
6
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