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Montaž

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snork10. 12. 2011 21:47:45
nice tourvelik nasmeh
but shame about the weather
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JusAvgustin12. 12. 2011 15:37:41
"it's not art to reach the summit at any cost, head through the wall... art is knowing when to turn back" really a shame about the weather, otherwise it wasn't favorable to "us" either, though it looked different at 7am... if only it had snowedmrk pogled
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garmont12. 12. 2011 18:59:45
Nicely said, Juš!
Regards
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IgorZlodej16. 01. 2012 18:26:27
It's generally known that it's cold in winter, but that you need cold for a certain ascent probably isn't entirely true. In Neveja it was cold in the morning, but not excessively like -15. The road to Pecol was icy here and there, but no problems at all. At Pecol everything was already in the sun and the beauty was shining brightly. I didn't like the hard track much, so I went a bit my own way, but since everything was slippery, skins and proper technique enabled nice ascent for me. If I was just going ski touring, I definitely wouldn't choose Pecol in these conditions. When I look around a bit I see two people high up, soon I stumble on a backpack and double snowshoes, below the wall entry, also a smaller backpack, ropes, ice screws, poles. Those two got equipped, I think, when I decide to stash skis under the nearby rock and equip myself too. They nicely climbed the first gully, ideal conditions I note. I go on following the predecessors' tracks and behold they misled me, the tracks went straight up somewhere, I go within the frame of the summer path to the right. Conditions excellent, snow hard, dry, no wind, sunshine. When I get under "Pipan's ledge" I watch for those two, but don't see them, when I get even higher, I see the last one who climbed through the pre-passage. From the belay I remove the ice axe and put it in the backpack, and clip to the fixed cable and climb up towards the "ledge". There's little snow, some ice and lots of bare rock, on the ledge it goes excellently for me. Quickly I'm up top, where one of them is belaying the other who's on the rope on the Zajzer side behind. We exchange a few words and I go on. Everything untouched, slightly worried about the ridge, although I know it perfectly, more in dry conditions. I know that at least at three places I need to go to the northern Zajzer side, and cornices could be dangerous. Snow on the south side mostly hard, on the ridge and north side loose, but base is hard. It goes nicely for me, the summit is getting closer, the Italians are still far behind me. I reach the cross, and a couple steps further. The view reaches to the end, so perfect. Good feeling. I go back, slight pull from SW, find shelter in the sun, drink, normally I never eat on tour, this time a piece of chocolate. Then the Italians arrive at the summit, of course we congratulate, Andrea and Riccardo, Triestines, also cavers, know all the pits on Kanin. We chat a bit, look around a bit, I see they don't know many mountains, especially not those in nearby Carnia, but they know Mangart, Jalovec, Krn, Triglav...The valley is still far. I start the descent first, they behind me, they also belay down on the rope, it goes nicely. Well under the ledge they stop, I go on. Soon I'm down at the skis. Although the sun shone all day, the snow didn't soften even a mm. But I don't care, I ski down, making long traverses. The snow doesn't break through even once, I watch for rocks. I stay high, so I nicely reach the Brazza hut. I sit a bit, look up to the summit, to the other shady side of Kanin, down to the Friulian plain. Nothing, have to go on, sun setting behind Žrd, flying down the road like a mad axe, in Neveja cold again, but not too cold.
among spruces it hides1
is already closer2
the gully is snow-covered, snow excellent for ascent3
towards lojtri, right preduh4
the gully is long and bare like mid-summer5
but summer is over, Andrea belays the second6
I already see the summit, but ahead is still the entire ridge7
Triestines are behind me, views indescribable8
what decoration on the mountain9
snapshot with Krn in the background10
untouched, crystals sparkle in the sun11
what a beautiful day12
Riccardo secures the photographer on the rope13
Visoke Ture, the entire chain as if on the palm and more besides14
descent15
towards Lojtra16
Nothing was slippery :-))17
Already under the bushes18
Still a nice stretch to the skis, I was careful not to break the ski pole, don't know about the other two19
Nice view of Montáž from Brazze20
The sun bids farewell behind Žrdjo21
(+28)like
Janez Seliškar16. 01. 2012 18:36:07
Igor, this is nicely and vividly written!

Montaž is worthy of all respect and admiration from those who climb it in winter conditions!

(+2)like
rozka16. 01. 2012 20:44:53
hey hey Igor
yeah, again one of those of yours, where only few dare in winternasmeh...CONGRATSnasmeh
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ljubitelj gora16. 01. 2012 21:04:43
Super Igornasmeh, keep it up like that, you can see you love going to the mountains just as much as I do, you simply love them, feel them on your skin, fill your inner peace, alone up there in the endless whiteness.nasmeh
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Irina17. 01. 2012 00:15:05
What a luxury the camera allows us. While I trudged through the dry grass around St. Trinity, Vražiček enjoyed Montaž. He took his share on the mountain, dedicated views to me/us that we'd never have been granted. At least not me. Thanks, it was divine.
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majčica17. 01. 2012 08:18:27
These are pictures that excite - congrats on this beautiful winter ascent in such magical weather!
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urbancek17. 01. 2012 15:34:45
Nice, as always..
Cool, best regards!
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rogi21. 06. 2012 16:59:05
I'm interested if anyone has been to Montaž in the last days via Pipan's ladder. On July 1, Štajerci plan to go on this tour, I've unofficially heard that the path to Montaž is damaged?! Thanks for information
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vik1. 07. 2012 00:03:18
On Friday we were there, from Pecol pasture, grassy slopes to the mountain full of flowers, marmots and higher chamois, one of which greeted us right on the summit. Path and protections all in excellent condition. On ledges much scree, careful step. Above ladder/upper cables marks even rarer, watch not to stray behind cairns more to the left, where climbing more demanding. If early and plan to return same way, from ridge can go right on traverse (pathless) towards Zabuš, view of mighty west walls of Montaž. A bit late info and reply, because today we also ascended Viš and just home. Nice day and safe steps.
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Gorjan992. 07. 2012 13:27:24
Yesterday we headed to Špik nad Policami. From Pecol across grassy meadows, over Pipan's ladder onwards to the summit. At the summit there wasn't excessive crowd. On the way back we visited neighbouring peak Vrh Brda and then descended back down to the entrance of ferrata Leva. We continued the path along the ferrata to Špik Hude Police. We had beautiful views. We looped the path back to Pecol, where we had the parked car. The tour was nice.

Lp Gorjannasmeh
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Vrh Brda6
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PV6. 07. 2012 14:39:01
Looking at various weather forecasts, looking out the window... but can't decidemrk pogled... When will the weather be nicer (less chance of cloudiness and storms) around Montaž... tomorrow (Saturday) or Sunday? Is anyone nearby at home who can recommend a day based on experience...
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IgorZlodej6. 07. 2012 16:30:39
Through the window you won't see much, have to drive at least to Pecolzavijanje z očmi. Weather forecast is good, but it's good to be on Montaž at least until 11 o'clock, because then it usually fogs up in this summer time and there are no views.
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PV6. 07. 2012 16:42:35
Igor, thanks for the reply... I hope your advice is enough so my wife gets up early enough.... mežikanje
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turbo6. 07. 2012 19:00:47
@PV

one of the better (quite reliable) forecasts for western Julian Alps and Carnic Alps :


http://www.meteo.fvg.it/SI/AREE/ALPI_GIULIE/StrutturaAlpiGiulie.php
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VanSims6. 07. 2012 21:58:53
The forecast here on hribi.net is quite reliable too. We'll see if it holds for where I'm going tomorrow. mežikanje
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PV8. 07. 2012 10:39:16
We decided to visit Montaž yesterday. Unfortunately Igor's assessment wasn't enough to throw my wife out of bed earlier and we started from Pecol only a little before half past seven. The weather was divine then, but before ten mists started gathering around the summit and when we got up we were back in the "studio"jezen. The fog occasionally cleared a bit, but there were really no views. Up and down we went via Lojtra, we had planned also the route to Špik via the tough slabs via ferrata, but then because of the fogs on Montaž we changed our mind and left it for another time. It turned out we made a mistake, as the fog cleared later and the weather was very decent.

Otherwise nice path, especially in the rocky part for the first time you need to watch quite well for the markers, there are plenty but very faded, above Lojtra great caution needed not to shower people below us with scree and need to listen well when one of the really numerous chamois above us triggers some rock slide (helmet mandatory!!!).
In the morning the weather was divine... Kanin in the background1
Soon mists began gathering above... those who were more diligent still had views then2
We two up the scree chute...3
...where the fog pitied us enough for the sun to appear too...4
...then down the scree chute again5
Company is guaranteed throughout... ;-)6
And they don't mind spicing up our photos.7
Just so you know.... and lukewarm beer 4.5 EUR.... ;-(
8
Greetings to Montaž before departure...9
And some posers too.... :-)10
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IgorZlodej8. 07. 2012 12:08:51
Early hour is very important for mountain visits, not just because of fog that hides the mountain, but also because of possible thunderstorms. Well sometimes they can surprise us already in the forenoon. Chamois though on Montaž at least in this end there aren't any, only ibexzavijanje z očmi.
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