|
| editorgo1. 07. 2015 11:49:17 |
Hi! Miha, my opinion on your question: in my opinion the easiest, if one can say so, is Hanz's path to Mojstrovka, but I'd agree that the paths to Vrbanove špice and the traverse of Dolgega hrbta are similar. Neither allows vertigo and both offer boundless pleasures in climbing - traversing. Just one more thing: at one or two exposed spots between Spodnja and Visoka Vrbanova špica there is no cable, so you'll have to manage there without a via ferrata kit. Only pegs and pitons. Safe steps! LP
| (+2) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| BT881. 07. 2015 12:03:19 |
Can someone briefly describe the course of the ridge traverse? If I understand correctly, the starting point is Kot valley below shepherd's left? Thanks for the answer.
|
|
|
|
| lynx1. 07. 2015 12:19:11 |
Which (part of the) ridge?
|
|
|
|
| malimiha1. 07. 2015 12:25:35 |
OK, thanks for the information. Can the difficulty of Vrbanove špice and Rjavina be compared to Kopiščarjeva on Prisojnik or are they even harder?
|
|
|
|
| panda1. 07. 2015 13:05:55 |
Kopiščarjeva: a bit demanding only the entry and later the chimney.........through the window doesn't seem hard to me.........ridge as ridge, quite a lot protected. In my assessment harder than Rjavina...........and easier than Špice.
|
|
|
|
| malimiha1. 07. 2015 13:07:38 |
OK, thanks. I've already gone via Kopiščarjeva, so I can imagine the difficulty of Vrbanove Špice and Rjavina.
|
|
|
|
| ms_primoz1. 07. 2015 13:20:37 |
In my opinion Vrbanove Špice are "harder" than Kopiščarjeva on Prisojnik. On Kopiščarjeva only the chimney is demanding, the rest pure classic 
Rjavina also has an exposed ridge, but incomparably shorter than Vrbanove Špice and Dolgega Hrbta, plus studded with pitons
Regarding vertigo - whoever has it doesn't even talk about Mala Mojstrovka or Stol  Dolgega Hrbta ridge is much airier than Vrbanove Špice. Good luck, otherwise nothing so terrible and scary. Just prepare your head for the path and all will be OK.
Oh, ridge to Prisojnik? A walk compared to Rjavina.
|
|
|
|
| dprapr1. 07. 2015 14:09:00 |
Since you're already at this ridge, which I haven't been to at all and will have to visit sometime - does anyone know the difficulty of the Požgana Mlinarica - Vrbanove Špice ridge?
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin1. 07. 2015 14:18:00 |
They say it's a five and a full-day mouthful. According to Prlet. According to "kerlci" it's a Swabian four. Now, who knows. You have to try it...
One doesn't ask healthy people that...
|
|
|
|
| dprapr1. 07. 2015 14:40:53 |
Yes, I read Prlet's description, and I wanted a "second opinion"!
|
|
|
|
| Guest1. 07. 2015 22:07:39 |
Around Vrbanove špice there's also a nice PP section. Start in Vrata, ascend toward Za Cmirom valley, but only until we turn left to Mlinarci. In saddle between both Mlinarci descend in notch about 100m and find passage right on ledges to Požgani Mlinarci. If upper ledge to end, maybe "abseil", but if halfway upper to lower ledge, small path awaits to scree under wall, where in cave find logbook. Then ascent to Debel kamen partly off-trail, higher marked path to junction where right turns to Špic to Stanič. Can turn left to Rjavina summit and descend ridge to Stanič. Or just continue to Stanič, from there recommend descent Za Cmirom back to Vrata. Descent Za Cmirom not well marked, but path visible, careful at Cmir branch and lower at jump climb. Scree system brings quickly back to Vrata valley.-Good luck-
| (+7) | | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin2. 07. 2015 05:35:32 |
And you didn't sign the book? Anyway, I wouldn't take the descent on ledges to Kot lightly. Know several who didn't find it or abseiled at least 60m... Orientationally tough for first-timer, cairns not abundant.
| (+3) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Guest2. 07. 2015 07:39:29 |
Hi JusAvgustin,
we signed into the small notebook wrapped in PVC.
I fully agree, the descent on the ledges to Kot is not to be taken lightly, but for someone who likes off-trail hiking or has done PP stages, such hidden corners are wonderful. With my buddy we had rope, helmet and extras, luckily no abseiling was needed except belaying in the notch. I'm not misleading anyone that this PP section is easy, but it is one of the easier ones. On the other side of Kot PP continues across to Luknja Peči and Rjavina, which is much harder and longer stage.
In the mountains not enough good weather, gear, knowledge, fitness. Often luck is needed for safe ascent/descent.
-Frane Milčinski Ježek-"Mother Luck's Phone"
Quit when ahead
and not when it's the last time.-Good luck-
| (+6) | | |
|
|
|
|
| matzaj2. 07. 2015 10:19:24 |
Hi.
I have two questions, about route to Rjavina. From Kot two routes described - climbing and ridge. Which do you recommend up and which down. Haven't been to Rjavina. Difficulty compared to Prisank through window, or Triglav via Plemenice? Done those several times. Can I manage?
Same question for Vrbanove špice, route past Staničeva and Lojze Rekar route - which up and which down?
Thanks a lot
|
|
|
|
| lynx2. 07. 2015 13:39:13 |
Ugh, read this and maybe the previous page.
en-goldy, do you have maybe a photo of Rjavina from below, after descent from the ridge or from Mlinarci?
|
|
|
|
| Janez Seliškar2. 07. 2015 13:49:55 |
To Rjavina and the traverse of Vrbanove Špice: start from Kot and descend to Stanič hut.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Guest2. 07. 2015 19:01:38 |
Hello, Janez and lynx have already said everything. I agree - up from Kot to the climbing route to Rjavina and descent towards Stanič along the ridge. And crossing Vrbanove Špice from Kot towards Stanič seems better to me, as you have the harder part behind you when you take a break at the hut. Attaching some photos ....lynx maybe there's something for you too. -Good luck-
| (+4) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.