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To Triglav?

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brencel28. 11. 2011 20:47:37
Igor,
congrats, and safe steps ahead
regards
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skalaš7028. 11. 2011 23:42:41
Safe steps to all!!!
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zvončnica29. 11. 2011 07:36:42
@vusko, congrats to you and mom for summit ascent, wonderful you two nasmeh, wish you luck ahead and lots more such joint tours in mountains, regardsvelik nasmeh
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Alpski Slovenc30. 11. 2011 20:20:11
Ascent to Triglav by Croatian guys. (Added video but don't know when it'll be up).
Video:
Ascent to Triglav1
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Navihan2. 12. 2011 17:10:46
In wonderful weather I visited Triglav yesterday. From Vrata via Luknja and Plemenice to the top, descent to Kredarica and via Prag back to Vrata. Snow starts a bit before the flat part of Plemenice, when views drift to the left towards the mighty Sphinx. On the other side snow recedes or starts on the scree just above Prag-Tominškova junction. The rest of the path is mostly in snow with some dry sections. I was alone at the top, although there were quite a few mountaineers at the top yesterday.
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Tomaž 753. 12. 2011 14:53:40
I was on Triglav a week ago, first I went to check out Peričnik waterfall (it was all frozen) and Vrata valley, then back and via Krma to Triglav. Started from Triglav only at 16:30, so I still caught the sunset. Crampons and ice axe are obligatory. At some places the fixed ropes are under snow and the snow was sun-softened, so I had to be extremely careful. Otherwise it was wonderful and inspiring, weather beautiful, just a bit too warm towards the top.
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IgorZlodej20. 12. 2011 19:02:48
On the radio they forecast: Kredarica -17, yeah, the best, finally some frost, I say to myself as I drive towards Mojstrana. Road is drivable to the end, wheel tracks somewhat icy here and there, but not annoying. At the parking lot three cars, two are just gearing up. Slightly in dilemma whether to take skis, but in the end leave them in the car. Short greeting to those two and off I go. Didn't feel cold at all, yeah of course, air is dry, humidity at Kredarica only 40%. Snow at the start really little, 2-3 cm, almost nothing, but at top of Bukovje already good 10 cm, then it increases, at Prgarca good 40 cm on some hard base. Track is quite good, just here and there goes around a bit, no problem, still thanks to the first who trampled it. Below Arnova glava I meet the sun shining from behind VDV. Drink a bit, then continue. Above the "streets" of the old track no more, yesterday's wind did its thing. But there's some new track, but it zigzags strangely, so I go a bit my way, higher, west of Rž I spot 4, pushing up somewhere. "Gully" still untouched, I also go more on the right wind-blown rib, then finally decide to cross left to "winter route". Those four go further up somewhere between Rž and Kredarica. Somewhat loose slope I tame quickly and already above Vrh snežne konte. Those four spot me and immediately descend to my track. From there to Kredarica not far. In between I check the rockfall on SE side of Kredarica, luckily off all paths and threatens no one. Frenk with shovel is making summer beach, which should be ready for the weekend with inversion. Says no one has been to the top yet, currently -14 degrees, but I feel warm. Look around a bit and decide to try. Crampons, ice axe, helmet, wool gloves and go. Snow is excellent, lots wind-blown, I kick up first steep, first traverse fully wind-blown, only hard old snow, excellent, second surprises me with lots wind-loaded snow, quickly check layers and traverse, further OK again, snow old and hard, some pitons out, third traverse fully snowed, snow deep and soft, with ice axe scratch rock, go more left, snow around 80 cm, push it left and right with hands, then ridge barely dusted, below Mali Triglav big cornice reaching SE side, along ridge here and there quite loaded, even to knees, fixed ropes frozen, shake snow and ice off with ice axe, actually no special problems to top, just wind from SW occasionally pulls. Tower still up, but even if not, I'd come again and again, today see to the sea, well I've had plenty such views. Descent follows. At Kredarica short chat, then to valley. This time walking where optimal winter route is, also down the "Gully". Nowhere slides. Krma still far, but before 2 hours at car. And just there I catch up my "acquaintances" from morning. They kindly offer me a good drink and together conclude we had another nice day.
Also info for those who would ski. Possible from Kredarica to Malo polje, still quite some powder, but need to watch out, because sometimes no snow base. Groomed track not yet done today.
when the sun kisses the mountain tops1
when the bushes are under snow, it will be the real scene2
already quite regular stops at Arnova glava3
yeah where are they going4
it will go, of course it went, conditions stable, behind MT5
when Poles see that I'm across, they come down to my track6
rock fall, Janko R. said he saw it from helicopter and it was already there on Sunday7
Frenk was diligent, he was clearing in front of the hut and later also the entrance to the chapel of Mary of the Snow8
well let's go9
under the wall large slab avalanches have slid10
in the second traverse there was a lot of wind-packed snow11
it was a day, blue sky and white snow12
fixed cables thickly covered, but that idyll is no more13
someone covered it from the south side14
in the distance the sea, which doesn't tempt me at all anyway15
yes Triglav, above the land to which there is supposedly no equal in beauty16
down there someone was walking, and the hut is visible even lower17
scattered clouds18
from Mangart to Razor19
through Žleb dol20
snapshot21
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JusAvgustin20. 12. 2011 20:15:32
Nice Igor! Bravo!nasmeh
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BRAZONIK20. 12. 2011 20:30:46
Nicely described, illustrated, also experienced, congrats Igor.
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Hribovc8820. 12. 2011 20:36:19
Wonderful, hats off, kudosnasmehmežikanje

Do they maybe need another weatherman up there, tell them next time I'll replace someone up there right awayvelik nasmehnasmehmežikanje
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otiv20. 12. 2011 20:45:53
In winter reaching Triglav summit is no joke, so to you, Igor, full praise and may that luck hold for you further.nasmeh
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100jan20. 12. 2011 21:24:23
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IgorZlodej20. 12. 2011 21:55:40
Stojan, you're welcome, but I was wondering all the time who is that so fastnasmeh, we just missed each other a bit, I was also in dilemma about skis, left them in the car, but there was some powdermežikanje. Thanks others for congrats.
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lijaneja20. 12. 2011 22:01:02
Fine. Track is groomed. Hope it holds till Saturday for us workers. Stojan, on the pic you're a bit ahead.
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majčica20. 12. 2011 22:12:15
Igor at -17 I wouldn't even poke my nose out, let alone jump for joyeek
so really hats off for such a nice description and even nicer picsnasmeh
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mukica21. 12. 2011 07:59:48
Igor, all congratulations for the ascent and pics, which are wonderful.. a real treat for us who don't take on winter ascents.. Also in Rateče it was -15, towards Tromeja though you didn't feel it so cold... sun and walking do their magicnasmeh
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petruša25. 12. 2011 15:24:19
Hello, first I'd wish everyone merry Christmas. Something interests me, maybe someone can help. Yesterday on SLO there was a program about Alojz Žakelj. He seemed a nice person to me, interests me where he has those bivouacs. One seemed to us above Morbegno. Hope I'm not wrong. Where is the one he made himself??? Maybe someone knows. We'd gladly go see it in summer months, because kudos for what he made, well maybe someone disagrees, if someone knows where the other bivouac is, can write me. Thanks in advance and best regards...
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rs75625. 12. 2011 15:44:53

Petruša, one Žakelj bivouac is on the edge of Podmežaklje above Jesenice, left side above motorway direction Hrušica. Well
visible from Lidl center in Jesenice. Just look up, see rocky promontory and on it blue painted bivouac. The other he set up is at Jerebikovec by Mojstrana. Go road to Kot valley and soon signpost left by road.

That's it and best regards.
Štef
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Swiss25. 12. 2011 21:43:17
Yes Petruša, you guessed right, it's above Morbegno. "B.Z.T.P."
Best regards and safe in mountains!
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Bojan_A25. 12. 2011 21:59:13
You can always watch the documentary here: http://vimeo.com/16630621
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