| VanSims28. 08. 2013 19:46:32 |
Night from Saturday to Sunday (10-11.8.) I slept at the parking lot in Vrata. Because of the parking fee collectors, I turned to that one down a bit off the road. But in the morning when I wake up and head just after seven towards Aljažev dom, I don't see them anywhere. Not even at the main parking lot! Weird! 
From Aljažev dom I continue past the junction for Tominškova to the junction of the path over Prag. After crossing the stream, climbing on pegs starts right away. That's good!  But after about 20 min. it stops. And a path begins that at first isn't so steep. Then it rises and again you have to grab with hands here and there. Here I meet three young guys, foreigners - the last one in sneakers! 
Then slowly I reach Medvedova skala. There I put on the full gear and into it. It didn't cause me much trouble but for a beginner it can be quite unpleasant. Because of it, I'd mark this path as 'very demanding'. The difficulty of this part can be compared in my opinion to those staples before Pipanova ladder on Montaž.
Further on there are a few more climbing sections that at least on ascent don't cause problems and I'm already at the junction with Tominškova. I go past Begunjski studenček, which was dripping symbolically which was probably the result of rain two days ago otherwise it would be completely dry in that heat wave.  From the junction to Staničeva koča towards Kredarica the arduous Triglav ledges begin, then before it a few wire ropes. There wasn't much crowd on the path but all the more at Kredarica. I quickly pass this most notorious hut in Slovenia and towards Planika. On the path under Konta I didn't dare because of the snowfield I saw, well maybe there wouldn't be problems. So I go around which extends the path by about 10-15 min.
After arriving at Planika, where the crowd was considerably smaller, I no longer follow the masses. I branch off to Gorjanska pot or Path over Noga or over Triglavska škrbina. But who knows any other name?  After about 10 min. I reach a scree that was still snowy. There were some tracks over it but still the ascent was quite laborious. Especially then it was a problem to get to the right path on the marks. Once I break through to the entrance to the climbing part, I sigh with relief regarding that.
Well, the climbing part itself, given that I heard it's not so hard, that this path is even easier than the one from Kredarica, surprises me. The lower free-climbing part (if I subtract some pegs) reminds me of the NW ridge of Gartnerkofel, where at the beginning it goes maybe even a bit steeper into the wall. There the rock is a bit more structured (here some driven pegs simulate it), on the scree on the path you have to watch on both paths. Then the wire ropes start slowly, which become more frequent. There it's a bit easier but still steep. The views down are quite magnificent too!
The transition from wires to the scree under the notch seemed a bit messy to me, well after about 10 min. I'm there - a view opens to the north side (Mangart, Jalovec,...). From Planika to Škrbina I was alone on the path. That's already comfort for Triglav in season! From there the path is no longer difficult, neither technically nor fitness-wise. But I have to admit I was already quite tired and it started to drag a bit. So I don't have an exact feeling if from there to the top I used only half or a whole hour 
At the top again full of people who e.g. again showed their ignorance of the surrounding mountains. So my indispensable Dobrač was first declared Višarje (which maybe due to relative proximity isn't such a blunder) then even Obir!  I take a short break and then I dash off, because I reckon I might still get back to Vrata by evening. On the ridge to Mali Triglav I self-belay and that allows me to practically run down! Some lady complains and even hints to me that I'll have to go down (what she exactly meant by that I don't understand  ) but her problem. Let her belay herself too otherwise tie her tongue! 
At Mali Triglav I realize it won't work out and I'll have to sleep up there. To Kredarica, the most vulgar-plebeian hut in our mountains I didn't feel like going and so I descend towards Planika. When I get there, I still get accommodation. How sleeping went there I described under the topic 'Hut keepers'.
In the morning I wake up at six, have breakfast and head back towards Kredarica and down to Vrata. I have a feeling that the times on the signs around Triglav are a bit too optimistic. To Vrata instead of two and a half hours I need four, if I subtract two stops. After Medvedova skala it was a bit messy, on the lower pegs it went fine though. In Vrata where I arrive around 12:00 again no one bothering for parking money. So where are these notorious parking fee collectors?
With the car I drive to Mojstrana, to the local Mercator for a snack then on vacation towards Austria...(to be continued - of course under another topic).
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