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| jbs26. 12. 2018 21:04:49 |
Today is our country's birthday, lots of people celebrated on the father or under it. My son and I too. At 7.30 barely parked at Lesa. More cars than in summer, lots loaded with logs. Path through forest icy, higher dry snow, great for walking. At Kredarica barely got in, so many people. Son waits in the Hut (and socializes ), I jump to the top. Conditions very good, almost all protections out, except on the tricky vertical at the traverse. Return from Kredarica to valley really quick, to the forest sliding on dry snow, then a bit sliding on ice . We were at the car at 16h.
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| janez.novak27. 12. 2018 19:57:30 |
Today in ideal weather conditions to Triglav - first winter ascent, fulfilling my long-yearned wish. Quite a few people, but less than previous day. Wardens friendly, quick service and tasty food. Parking at Pri lesi is real ice rink, but possible to park at wood storage.
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| dprapr27. 12. 2018 20:07:06 |
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| janez.novak27. 12. 2018 20:08:02 |
You know, I'm really happy, thanks for the praise.
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| sg828. 12. 2018 15:47:57 |
Was anyone on Triglav today? Is the cable out so you can clip with via ferrata set? Is additional rope needed? Thanks
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| janez.novak28. 12. 2018 16:25:13 |
Seems to me the cable is out. No need for rope, just a bit of caution and it'll be fine without problems.
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| nteam28. 12. 2018 17:28:54 |
Hello Janez.
We were together on the summit yesterday - I'm the one who had the number added to the self-portrait .
We chose an incredible day. I was also there for the first time in winter conditions.
Congratulations and I wish you safe paths ahead!
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| janez.novak28. 12. 2018 18:17:41 |
And you were the one with number 150? Yeah it was really nice, a person lives for such moments. We met many from early morning in Krma until return several times. It was completely different from summer season, more homely, more friendly. And also - what is first time once, isn't forgotten, repetitions are just repetitions.
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| knap422728. 12. 2018 18:44:56 |
Regarding rope there are certain sections where no possibility of protection with self-belay kit and only winter technique needed. If that's a problem then at least 10m rope can come in handy - at least for the 'leader'. Otherwise congratulations to Janez from me too. We were together on summit. Best, Matej
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| nteam28. 12. 2018 19:07:18 |
Yes, Janez, that's me.
It really is more homely, since at this time there really are only true enthusiasts there, which is hard to say for the summer season for all in those crowds.
A few more pics - showing conditions - if useful to someone.
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| keglevich12. 01. 2019 19:43:34 |
Yesterday (11.01.) from Zadnjice valley via shorter path (over Komar) via Dolič we summited Triglav. Snow starts at 1600m height, up to there no issues. At exit to Mulatjero at end of Komar path conditions become quite different. On Mulatjero itself under Dolič wind-blown snow in places (frozen), winter gear mandatory there. Passage over Dolič difficult, we searched possible passages on the spot, classic summer (Mulatjero) passage not possible. On slabs no issues, much less snow than around Dolič. Wall entry not hard, pitons out, Bovška Škrbina nicely filled, before Škrbina a few very dangerous meters - steep frozen ground. On south slab to summit conditions mostly ok, two places below summit very exposed passage, ground very hard, icy. For safety descent to Kredarica (whole path nicely trodden, much less snow than Bovec side, cables mostly out, over Mali Triglav all aids out, traverse nicely passable) and descent to Krma valley.
From Zadnjice we were first in the last days, no footprints in snow anywhere, obviously for a reason. Ascent via Dolič in current conditions due to lots of snow very hard in places. Recommend only to very good terrain experts, some places almost require two ice axes, due to wind (yesterday summit -19, Kredarica -15 at 3pm and fairly strong wind) conditions even harder. Definitely recommend path from Krma via Kredarica.
Since descent to Kredarica for safety almost necessary, two pairs of trekking poles left behind us. Left them at ca. 2500m on scree below wall. If someone despite described conditions path takes them by and can pick them up, I promise at least symbolic reward.
Best regards to all and good luck! Tomaž.
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| j.13. 01. 2019 13:17:57 |
Guys, you've really pulled this off! Congratulations!
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| skalaš7020. 01. 2019 23:06:23 |
Bravo team and good pics OF COURSE .
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| cason10. 02. 2019 18:23:56 |
Here's my little bit from yesterday's ascent (9.2.2019). Snow is forecast for tomorrow and conditions might not be the same, but if anyone's interested I'm attaching a video clip and blog (photos there too) Dejan has already said everything else.
BLOG
YOUTUBE VIDEO
Best regards!
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| cvalenti10. 02. 2019 19:49:29 |
Matjaž and Dejan on descent!
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| TamaraTP10. 02. 2019 19:53:50 |
Great descriptions, nice, congrats to all and thanks!
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| Rabraminca14. 02. 2019 11:10:29 |
And who knows how far you can drive into Krma towards Kredarica.
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