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| GregorC17. 12. 2016 18:04:36 |
What if you went to the mountains a bit more and philosophized a bit less? Accidents are unfortunately part of mountaineering, but some of us see negligence and sloppiness in every one regardless of how and why it happened. And they always start spinning the same crap about the need for charging.
I'm convinced that if we introduce paid rescue, the number of serious injuries and even fatalities will increase sharply, because many won't dare call for help due to fear of costs. They'd rather try to solve it forcefully themselves and cause an even worse situation. It's still cheaper for rescuers to bring an uninjured person down to the valley than the same person injured because they didn't call for help in time. Treatment costs in that case exceed rescue costs several times.
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| KUKI7717. 12. 2016 18:35:54 |
I think they should add a sentence and a picture or two.. for proper view of conditions.
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| slavojka17. 12. 2016 19:30:08 |
Come on, stop it already, the forum is for current conditions, not for philosophizing!
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| IgorZlodej20. 12. 2016 20:30:17 |
I haven't hiked from Tamar in such dry conditions yet. But when snow starts, right uphill looking, about 15 min. past Brkica turn-off, it's completely different. Snow hard, partly frozen, crampons grip well. Similar through couloir, just some windpack in places. Nothing flew down. From Jezerc onwards I expected good tracks, but none in hard snow, predecessors went higher. Since "grapca" didn't seem snowed enough I stuck to marked path. All way to ridge on 2-4 front crampon points. Ridge beautifully snowed, rarely so this time. Drank enough, usual stuff, no calf cramps, just great views all round. Despite constant warming sun snow didn't soften at all, if it had big trouble, rocks deep under snow stayed put, descent to Jezerca fully safe.
Shady dark couloir didn't attract much, but ascent ends reaching valley, the one started in.
Conditions actually not easy, need proper psychophysical fitness, less experienced need alpinist or guide.
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| Mark Avrelij22. 12. 2016 23:42:51 |
Bravo Igor!
Did you see any poles on the path maybe; 3 pairs?
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| IgorZlodej23. 12. 2016 15:44:54 |
No, didn't notice any poles anywhere, but it was well trodden to Jezerc, much less ahead, or rather nothing after you.
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| Mihc00726. 12. 2016 20:23:29 |
Yesterday we were on Jalovec. Snow starts only at bivouac height under Kotovo sedlo, hard, frozen, only in Ozebnik partly "wet". But we were early. No idea what the snow was like later.
Report.
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| Mihc00731. 12. 2016 13:26:02 |
Congratulations, wonderful pictures!
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| j.11. 01. 2017 20:22:46 |
Today at minus 15 or something like that up and down Ozebnik, no time for Jalovec. Snow is hard, above Ozebnik there are patches of wind-packed snow in a few places, nothing serious. Almost nothing flying, just a few small pebbles. On the saddle above Jezerci surprisingly sunny, warm and calm.
Problem is the descent from the point where there's no more snow, onwards. Already loose scree sugared with a centimetre of snow, so everything creeps and slides. Almost on the flat I barely caught myself a few times... Annoying! But day after tomorrow it will be different already...
Ah, and one more thing in this Siberian period: on return frozen diesel was waiting for me in the car..
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| lijaneja16. 01. 2017 16:00:49 |
...when there was a bit more snow...
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| simonerjavec27. 01. 2017 09:40:41 |
Not much snow, but more than last week in the Karavanke, so I decided to go check.
Classic approach - along the ski trail to the hut, then through the forest and onwards along the scree - as soon as you get out of the forest, the minefield starts. The middle part is quite windblown, so on the ascent I went there on foot, then onwards on skis. Below Ozebnik some settled powder, mostly crusty snow, some icy crust too.
Across Ozebnik maybe possible with crampons, I went on foot. The exit is icy and sprinkled with mines, to the cornice above it's hard and partly icy.
Skiing though... up top fight for survival, central part windblown but much better than the rest, so OK.  lower part hard again. On the scree be careful, don't get too relaxed because it can pin you quickly.
If necessary, you can ski something, but I'd recommend "scree" skis, or the next snow dump.
More on the blog:
http://www.simonerjavec.com/2017/01/prvic-letos-v-ozebniku.html
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| redbull29. 01. 2017 14:56:43 |
28.01.17
Conditions to the middle of the Ozebnik were soft. From there on hard. No thaw at all. We climbed through the chimney where there was just enough ice for the ascent. Over the roof to the ridge and to the summit. Return via normal variant which was also hard. Southern neighbors and two of ours turned around a little above Jezerci. We also visited Veliki Ozebnik and another interesting gully. It was a nice, great day.
At the end I can add once again that this is not an easy climb. If the ascent to Triglav in current conditions is hard for someone, then don't even think about Jalovec.
Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2017/01/jalovec-in-veliki-ozebnik-280117.html
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| mihajlovich11229. 01. 2017 17:59:51 |
Dejan, awesome! Congratulations!
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| janez.novak29. 01. 2017 19:55:10 |
Dejan, how do you manage all that, and from so far you have to drive - doing hard tours and demanding ones.
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| BT8829. 01. 2017 21:31:54 |
Yeah, guys are prepared as needed for such feats: young and good, no doubt. Hats off. Wish you safe steps as you surely need them.
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| sonny422. 02. 2017 14:29:37 |
On 20.2. I went through Ozebnik to Jalovec summit. I turned before summit due to bad weather. Snow soft but tracked. From Ozebnik summit I didn't go through chimney but followed summer path.
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| redbull22. 02. 2017 18:43:04 |
Almost no new snow, it was blown away
Good luck
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| IgorZlodej22. 02. 2017 19:00:21 |
There will be more snow in the next days.
Otherwise on 20.2 weather wasn't bad at all, from Mangart Jalovec looked really nice. From the spot under that cable to the top it's still a nice stretch of path.
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