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| A.D.K.2. 10. 2017 09:36:27 |
...how clever we are again...
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| Dr.ejči2. 10. 2017 10:54:44 |
"Let's start with the basics, what are ferratas?
These are climbing routes or paths in mountains or walls secured with steel cables."
"After World War I, various alpine associations started building ferratas. In Slovenia, they were built under the umbrella of the Slovenian Alpine Association. They enable more mass visits to mountains, as steeper and exposed places are secured and thus summits are more accessible."
https://vsebovredu.triglav.si/zdravje/ferata-plezalna-pot-plezanje
...but I agree with Drago that it's just an "unloved" abbreviation for a difficult secured mountain path.
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| MarkoNG2. 10. 2017 20:31:49 |
The arrogance of some on this forum annoyed me a bit. A person in good faith passes on path info as soon as possible the same day to others who might really care about path conditions. And gets in thanks a bunch of superfluous opinions on unimportant namings of very demanding mountain paths or secured climbing paths or ferratas.
The Alpine Association of Slovenia defined and described the terminology according to various authors (Mašer, Hüsler, Fleischmann) long before this beloved portal hribi.net existed, namely before 2006.
For all eager readers I recommend taking the book: Safer on ferratas and guide to Dolomite ferratas (PZS) from 2002.
Another interesting read I recommend is Guide to Carnic ferratas (PZS) from 2011.
By the way in Italian ferrata is written as ferrata...
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| garmont2. 10. 2017 21:24:49 |
Marko, no need to change your posts, because then the whole debate ahead looks pointless.
Nothing wrong if you called secured path ferrata, it's true that there always is someone who just lectures.
You keep posting....
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| Dr.ejči2. 10. 2017 22:28:15 |
That's right, Dolfi...Marko, it seems to me that we all, well at least for myself I can claim, commented in your favor and not "the calf's"... good luck further... on ferrata or on secured path...
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| dprapr3. 10. 2017 00:11:04 |
This debate actually doesn't belong under Jalovec (let Tadej move it to the right place), but I'll comment anyway.
I'm among those who don't agree with this kind of foreignized, in my opinion, inappropriate naming of ordinary secured paths in the mountains, which are routed more or less along natural passages to the summits. I also don't agree with this aggressive approach of those who hike in the mountains with "helmets", as my Gorenjec colleague would say. They want at all costs that we all are equipped like that and name paths like that, although for now, luckily, there is no ferrata in the proper sense in our high mountains. What it's like on Kanin, I don't know.
For a long time it was held that there are only three ferratas in the Julians on the Italian side. Now almost all paths are ferratas and we should use SVK on all. If you don't have it, they already look at you sideways, like what is this guy up to. Wasn't it said recently in basketball, don't bring your name, bring your game?
I was quite unpleasantly surprised last time when we descended Via Amalii, which they equipped almost entirely with steel cables. It was already equipped on harder spots before, in between it allowed some freedom of movement, which gives the path its charm, nothing compromised on safety. I notice more and more that everything is going that way, that even existing paths are equipped so you don't need to think anymore, but just switch carabiners from peg to peg. What mountain experience is like that way, I can't imagine.
But the "experience" of those dealing with selling that gear is probably very emotional.
Marko, arrogance up the mountain or down, we'll still be glad for every one of your trip reports, even more for photos of current conditions.
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| BT883. 10. 2017 01:00:06 |
For example to my buddy from Trieste this info came in handy as after Saturday talk I told him conditions are not ok. He doesn't understand Slovenian so I forwarded him this message or let Jalovec wait a bit. Marko for this info Fabio thanks you nicely and buys you a coffee in Trieste.
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| lukec_skorec3. 10. 2017 11:34:34 |
Dear all,
returning to the topic of this discussion (CONDITIONS).
On Saturday 30.09.2017 from Kotovo sedlo. Already before the turn to the west side two notable snow patches, knee-deep wading. On NW a mix. Bare rock sections, patches of wind-blown snow hip-deep. Snow after 11am veryyyy rotten, can't trust it (it was really hot). A couple of traverses very tricky. Up-down from Kotovo sedlo 6 hours.
Until better conditions, I wouldn't venture on this route again.
Best,L
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| mirko12312. 10. 2017 16:22:58 |
maybe someone knows what the current conditions are like regarding snow?
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| sonny413. 10. 2017 12:16:09 |
@mirko123 Attaching a distant photo from 11.10., if it helps. Judging by conditions on north side of Vevnica, where there is snow, it's hard, sometimes icy. Question is what it's like on south side.
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| MANGRT26. 05. 2018 21:46:28 |
Today's Jalovec showed in all its beauty. Chose Kotovo sedlo route for ascent, adapted to my winter approach variant. At summit enjoyed sunrise, descent through Ozebnik allowing incredibly fast drop sliding on snow.
Path nothing special, still lots of snow requiring proper gear.
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| zlatica26. 05. 2018 22:31:15 |
Congratulations, great MANGRT.
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| maks5727. 05. 2018 14:47:10 |
My respect and admiration, MANGRT! Bravo! I've been gathering courage for a year to finally conquer it. When it's dry, without snow, of course.
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| zmp21. 06. 2018 09:53:22 |
Where does the winter variant from Kotovo sedlo to the summit run, and is the marked path still under snow, but passable with ice axe and crampons?
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| redbull1. 06. 2018 12:22:46 |
If it's under snow then it's surely passable with ice axe and crampons. In any case it's passable, how difficult it is is the question
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| sonny412. 06. 2018 22:37:22 |
Today on Jalovec, from Zadnja Trenta. Planned a loop - up over Jalovška Škrbina or Goličica, down past Shelter under Špičkom. Sadly a huge gully before entry to Goličica wall crossed my plans. Snow there still cca 5m, entry difficult and didn't want to risk. But, didn't give up. Descended the iron path to Jalovškega Ozebnika, up to summit and then to Jalovec. Return as planned past Velikega Ozebnika and Špička back to valley. Winter gear needed in Jalovškem Ozebniku (of course) and before entry to Jalovec wall, elsewhere dry or didn't need. Under Špičkom lots of snowfield, but has runout, not that steep either.
Protections all good. Super tour, recommend. When possible somewhat comfortably to Goličica wall, question.
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| redbull13. 06. 2018 06:28:27 |
Good, especially useful information
Good luck
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| lijaneja13. 06. 2018 07:52:38 |
This is how you describe and document a hike. Not twelve selfies.
Thanks, Marko and good luck.
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| TamaraTP13. 06. 2018 08:41:06 |
sonny4 thanks; nicely described, visually shown path that shows current conditions for visiting these parts.
One can decide more easily with such reports to visit wonderful peaks. I've really missed writings like yours (agree with lijaneja here).
Good luck
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