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Jalovec

sonny413. 06. 2018 12:25:33

Thank you kindly. Yes, information is useful, but on the other hand there is greater satisfaction at the conquered summit if there's some unknown in between. Everyone can adjust the tour and some piece will be unknown.
Probably someone will climb also through the short ravine under Golicica, I almost succeeded too, and we'll know how the path is there.

(+5)

janez.novak13. 06. 2018 13:42:14

I think this forum is mainly for exchanging information, polemics should be as little as possible.

(+1)

redbull17. 06. 2018 19:34:43

Diamond from Tamar (17.06.18)

Snow starts below the couloir and as it looks now it won't melt this year. Path to summit already described by Marko. Descended the other side to Kotovo sedlo. Lent one ice axe to foreigner, still don't know how he crossed larger snowfield to top. A bit lower another snowfield, before drop to Kotovo sedlo could bypass it. Without gear the path is not passable yet. Checked direct path to Vevnica from Kotovo, survived winter well. Next time, when there is more motivation, also on it.

path towards Kotovo sedlo. From the top, first snow field

along the edge to the end and crossing the second few-meter snow field

third snow field before descent to Kotovo sedlo. It can be bypassed on the right on dry ground

path to Mangart dry, only some patches in shady slopes probably still remain from MKM onwards

from close up, second time when there is more will

(+12)

TamaraTP20. 06. 2018 17:21:45

redbull, great, thanks!

(+4)

lijaneja22. 06. 2018 17:47:15

Yesterday Akcija had issues again so drove to Gorenjska motorway. Surprisingly no traffic but in Rutah traffic light as they are repairing road. Promised nice day and hot which I fear most lately. Time 7:15, in Dom v Tamarju still bustling so head to goal without planned tea. Besides hut closure soon disappointed by some long fallen trees over path as already trodden path around them. Crampons on at Ozebnik entrance as obviously harder than at Dejan's on Sunday. Snow here really huge this year and will last to July for sure except at the very exit. At top of Ozebnik meet nice lad and go together to summit. Crampons needed to wall entry then no snow to top. Sadly mists gathering, deprived of nice views from top. Fewer pics consequently. Descent hot, over Ozebnik still with ice axe and crampons, after descent from it can slide nicely at least 500m height in boots.

Ridge of Rateške Ponce, in front Kotovo sedlo.

On the summit, only Primož kept me company, who approached from Vršič.

At two o'clock the summit of Jalovec in fog, so the collapsing building stands out more, which is not exactly a pride for the valley.

(+16)

darinka44. 07. 2018 13:33:47

Jalovec 3. 7. 2018.

(+3)

Monja_7. 07. 2018 17:06:21

Does anyone know how it is with the snow on the path? Are crampons needed?
Thanks!
Best regards

(+1)

darinka47. 07. 2018 19:50:20

I went from Zapodna to Zadnja Trenta. From Špička there are two snow fields. I used an ice axe. Before entering the wall there's another snow field. Quite steep. I also used the ice axe there. I had to make steps, although the snow was soft. To the summit it's dry. If the snow there were hard, crampons would definitely be useful. The summit book is full. mežikanje

(+2)

bogi19. 07. 2018 10:04:40

Yesterday I visited Jalovec from Vršič. I ascended via Mali kot and Goličica. Before entering the Goličica wall there is a bigger snow field, which needs to be crossed and descend into a 2 m deep hole between the wall and snow on the other side. Quite awkward, as the snow field slope is steep zadrega

.
The next snow field is a bit further from where the winter path from Tamar joins. It can be bypassed on the upper side, but the scree is even worse than the snow. Another snow field is before the Jalovec wall where paths from Špička and Goličica meet. It needs to be crossed, then up the left side of the snow field on rocks to the marked path.
Few visitors, but great views and good service at Špička, then back to Vršič.
Very nice full-day tour, it's wise to take winter gear nasmeh

snow needs to be crossed and descend 2 m into the hole

snowfield between Veliki Ozebnik and Jalovec

around the snowfield over rocks to the marked path

(+9)

sppella24. 07. 2018 16:46:01

Has anyone gone over Kotovo sedlo to the shelter under Špička in the last few days and has condition data? What's the path condition and how are the snow fields on the route? Photos welcome too. Thanks for the info. Safe steps

(+1)

tom325. 07. 2018 06:00:34

Yesterday from Kotovo sedlo to Jalovec and back the same way. One snow field that can be bypassed.

(+6)

mukica30. 07. 2018 06:11:21

Path passable without winter gear. Just one snow field crossed above it, some scree but doable no problem.

(+7)

cason2. 08. 2018 20:45:21

Conditions on Jalovec, start from Planica, over Tamar and gasa up to Jalovec. Winter gear not needed.

Video below!

Jalovec 31.7.2018

(+5)

Chaos1233. 08. 2018 12:38:52

thanks cason! Tomorrow I'll go up here too. lp

rovka5. 08. 2018 08:48:16

The path from Tamar over Kotovo sedlo without any major issues, while on descent over Škrbina at the bottom of the glacier basin a larger snowfield awaits us. At the exit from the wall it covers the pegs at about three meters height. Problematic descent possible somewhat right downward between wall and snowfield, where a half meter wide terminal slot has formed. The snowfield is easier to cross some 50 meters lower, at its narrowest and somewhat flatter part.

(+2)

jbs5. 08. 2018 14:17:27

If I understand correctly, you could get from the wall to the terminal gully and then cross the lower snowfield without winter gear? What about the snowfield under the Goličica wall, is it still there?

rovka5. 08. 2018 17:10:50

That's right. It goes quite tight though, just don't get scared nasmeh

Once through it, about 10 meters, there follows a descent on scree along the wall edge. The snowfield could be crossed right at the slot exit, but crossing without proper gear is just a bit more demanding due to the incline.

There's still quite some snowfield at the top of the Ozebnika, no issue during the day, maybe in the morning. The one at the exit from the climbing section under Goličica shouldn't cause problems anymore. LP

jbs5. 08. 2018 21:24:32

Great, thanks for the info.

Roman296. 08. 2018 08:36:37

On Saturday to Jalovec from Planica via Kotovo sedlo. When I got to Tamar the peak was just bathed in sunlight, but the idyll didn't last long. When I was still below Kotovo sedlo the mountain closed in fog and I was quite annoyed for a while thinking I'd miss the views. In the end it was good as after clearing, it scorched the neck so it was a joy. Basically the closer to the top the clearer it got and the summit greeted me in the sun. Path and feelings on the mountain wonderful, gotta go up again soon from the other side. Regards

At Kotovo sedlo it was blowing furiously.

Slowly the mountain began to open up, and my mouth turned into a smile..)))

But down here I wouldn't want to go in the wet.

There were quite a few visitors on the mountain

a week ago I looked from that side (Mangart)

larger group at Kotovo sedlo, as it was still ascending to the summit

they posed a little for me, I only noticed the silhouette in the wall at home...as if they were sticking out their tongues...)))

well, but I saw it in all its beauty on the descent..)))

here it was hidden in fog on the way to the summit

it was beautiful .. for the soul and the eye

(+7)

jbs13. 08. 2018 20:58:39

A bit delayed, but anyway. Thursday (9.8.18) with son to Jalovec. Start at 5 a.m. in Planica, to Tamar just warming up, then quickly onwards. At the fork in Mali kot thinking which way to do the loop. Climbing over scree to Ozebnik and Škrbina not appealing, knew descent via Goličica and Škrbina would be a challenge for the ten-year-old, protections sparse and widely spaced, almost no belay, exposure on Goličica extreme. Have gear for son's extra protection, decide on Kotovo sedlo anyway, also for morning views magnificent on path and saddle. Secured path ascent from Kotovo sedlo no problems, quickly at 8:30 on Jalovec summit. Surprising crowd for morning hour. An hour enjoying views. Then very careful descent along the ridge and down the other side. No special technical demands, but every step potentially deadly due to steepness and scree. At junction on saddle between Jalovec and Veliki Ozebnika descend screes above Jalovski Ozebnika towards Goličica wall. Tackled Goličica very slowly with extreme care and concentration, no issues and no need for extra protection. Then at Škrbina last break before descent into eternal shade. Descent from Škrbina relatively short and generously protected, still quite steep requiring high concentration. After last pegs descend into narrow gap between snowfield and wall and continue down along wall. I must warn, this descent is not so easy, steep and wet. For some distance still along protections, then protections end and marked path crosses to other side (cannot because of snowfield), requires some minor free climbing down. After some tens of meters descent snowfield narrows, cross it actually through a slot (probably formed in recent days), then left across scree downwards. There must cross another snowfield arm (can bypass above along wall), hard and fairly wide (15m) but quite gentle and wavy, so can cross without major problems (but no slip allowed). Descent over unpleasant scree/gravel just a formality. At Tamar a little before 14:00. Quick ice cream and beer and "fly" to Planica.