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Jalovec

zmp21. 06. 2018 09:53:22

Where does the winter variant from Kotovo sedlo to the summit run, and is the marked path still under snow, but passable with ice axe and crampons?

(+2)

redbull1. 06. 2018 12:22:46

If it's under snow then it's surely passable with ice axe and crampons. In any case it's passable, how difficult it is is the question mežikanje

(+1)

sonny412. 06. 2018 22:37:22

Today on Jalovec, from Zadnja Trenta. Planned a loop - up over Jalovška Škrbina or Goličica, down past Shelter under Špičkom. Sadly a huge gully before entry to Goličica wall crossed my plans. Snow there still cca 5m, entry difficult and didn't want to risk. But, didn't give up. Descended the iron path to Jalovškega Ozebnika, up to summit and then to Jalovec. Return as planned past Velikega Ozebnika and Špička back to valley. Winter gear needed in Jalovškem Ozebniku (of course) and before entry to Jalovec wall, elsewhere dry or didn't need. Under Špičkom lots of snowfield, but has runout, not that steep either.
Protections all good. Super tour, recommend. When possible somewhat comfortably to Goličica wall, question.

The upper gorge under Goličica. The picture does not show the real depth.

Jalovški Ozebnik, photographed from the via ferrata from Jalovška škrbina.

Snowfield before the entrance to the Jalovec wall.

Apart from the snowfield before the entrance, the path to Jalovec is completely dry.

Goličica, Veliki Ozebnik and Jalovec ridge.

Summit, in the background probably the ridge towards Mangart?

Zadnja Trenta. Pouring like from a bucket.

(+21)

redbull13. 06. 2018 06:28:27

Good, especially useful information

Good luck

(+4)

lijaneja13. 06. 2018 07:52:38

This is how you describe and document a hike. Not twelve selfies.
Thanks, Marko and good luck.

(+12)

TamaraTP13. 06. 2018 08:41:06

sonny4 thanks; nicely described, visually shown path that shows current conditions for visiting these parts.
One can decide more easily with such reports to visit wonderful peaks. I've really missed writings like yours (agree with lijaneja here).

Good luck

(+5)

sonny413. 06. 2018 12:25:33

Thank you kindly. Yes, information is useful, but on the other hand there is greater satisfaction at the conquered summit if there's some unknown in between. Everyone can adjust the tour and some piece will be unknown.
Probably someone will climb also through the short ravine under Golicica, I almost succeeded too, and we'll know how the path is there.

(+5)

janez.novak13. 06. 2018 13:42:14

I think this forum is mainly for exchanging information, polemics should be as little as possible.

(+1)

redbull17. 06. 2018 19:34:43

Diamond from Tamar (17.06.18)

Snow starts below the couloir and as it looks now it won't melt this year. Path to summit already described by Marko. Descended the other side to Kotovo sedlo. Lent one ice axe to foreigner, still don't know how he crossed larger snowfield to top. A bit lower another snowfield, before drop to Kotovo sedlo could bypass it. Without gear the path is not passable yet. Checked direct path to Vevnica from Kotovo, survived winter well. Next time, when there is more motivation, also on it.

path towards Kotovo sedlo. From the top, first snow field

along the edge to the end and crossing the second few-meter snow field

third snow field before descent to Kotovo sedlo. It can be bypassed on the right on dry ground

path to Mangart dry, only some patches in shady slopes probably still remain from MKM onwards

from close up, second time when there is more will

(+12)

TamaraTP20. 06. 2018 17:21:45

redbull, great, thanks!

(+4)

lijaneja22. 06. 2018 17:47:15

Yesterday Akcija had issues again so drove to Gorenjska motorway. Surprisingly no traffic but in Rutah traffic light as they are repairing road. Promised nice day and hot which I fear most lately. Time 7:15, in Dom v Tamarju still bustling so head to goal without planned tea. Besides hut closure soon disappointed by some long fallen trees over path as already trodden path around them. Crampons on at Ozebnik entrance as obviously harder than at Dejan's on Sunday. Snow here really huge this year and will last to July for sure except at the very exit. At top of Ozebnik meet nice lad and go together to summit. Crampons needed to wall entry then no snow to top. Sadly mists gathering, deprived of nice views from top. Fewer pics consequently. Descent hot, over Ozebnik still with ice axe and crampons, after descent from it can slide nicely at least 500m height in boots.

Ridge of Rateške Ponce, in front Kotovo sedlo.

On the summit, only Primož kept me company, who approached from Vršič.

At two o'clock the summit of Jalovec in fog, so the collapsing building stands out more, which is not exactly a pride for the valley.

(+16)

darinka44. 07. 2018 13:33:47

Jalovec 3. 7. 2018.

(+3)

Monja_7. 07. 2018 17:06:21

Does anyone know how it is with the snow on the path? Are crampons needed?
Thanks!
Best regards

(+1)

darinka47. 07. 2018 19:50:20

I went from Zapodna to Zadnja Trenta. From Špička there are two snow fields. I used an ice axe. Before entering the wall there's another snow field. Quite steep. I also used the ice axe there. I had to make steps, although the snow was soft. To the summit it's dry. If the snow there were hard, crampons would definitely be useful. The summit book is full. mežikanje

(+2)

bogi19. 07. 2018 10:04:40

Yesterday I visited Jalovec from Vršič. I ascended via Mali kot and Goličica. Before entering the Goličica wall there is a bigger snow field, which needs to be crossed and descend into a 2 m deep hole between the wall and snow on the other side. Quite awkward, as the snow field slope is steep zadrega

.
The next snow field is a bit further from where the winter path from Tamar joins. It can be bypassed on the upper side, but the scree is even worse than the snow. Another snow field is before the Jalovec wall where paths from Špička and Goličica meet. It needs to be crossed, then up the left side of the snow field on rocks to the marked path.
Few visitors, but great views and good service at Špička, then back to Vršič.
Very nice full-day tour, it's wise to take winter gear nasmeh

snow needs to be crossed and descend 2 m into the hole

snowfield between Veliki Ozebnik and Jalovec

around the snowfield over rocks to the marked path

(+9)

sppella24. 07. 2018 16:46:01

Has anyone gone over Kotovo sedlo to the shelter under Špička in the last few days and has condition data? What's the path condition and how are the snow fields on the route? Photos welcome too. Thanks for the info. Safe steps

(+1)

tom325. 07. 2018 06:00:34

Yesterday from Kotovo sedlo to Jalovec and back the same way. One snow field that can be bypassed.