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| rovka5. 08. 2018 08:48:16 |
The path from Tamar over Kotovo sedlo without any major issues, while on descent over Škrbina at the bottom of the glacier basin a larger snowfield awaits us. At the exit from the wall it covers the pegs at about three meters height. Problematic descent possible somewhat right downward between wall and snowfield, where a half meter wide terminal slot has formed. The snowfield is easier to cross some 50 meters lower, at its narrowest and somewhat flatter part.
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| jbs5. 08. 2018 14:17:27 |
If I understand correctly, you could get from the wall to the terminal gully and then cross the lower snowfield without winter gear? What about the snowfield under the Goličica wall, is it still there?
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| rovka5. 08. 2018 17:10:50 |
That's right. It goes quite tight though, just don't get scared Once through it, about 10 meters, there follows a descent on scree along the wall edge. The snowfield could be crossed right at the slot exit, but crossing without proper gear is just a bit more demanding due to the incline. There's still quite some snowfield at the top of the Ozebnika, no issue during the day, maybe in the morning. The one at the exit from the climbing section under Goličica shouldn't cause problems anymore. LP
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| jbs5. 08. 2018 21:24:32 |
Great, thanks for the info.
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| jbs13. 08. 2018 20:58:39 |
A bit delayed, but anyway. Thursday (9.8.18) with son to Jalovec. Start at 5 a.m. in Planica, to Tamar just warming up, then quickly onwards. At the fork in Mali kot thinking which way to do the loop. Climbing over scree to Ozebnik and Škrbina not appealing, knew descent via Goličica and Škrbina would be a challenge for the ten-year-old, protections sparse and widely spaced, almost no belay, exposure on Goličica extreme. Have gear for son's extra protection, decide on Kotovo sedlo anyway, also for morning views magnificent on path and saddle. Secured path ascent from Kotovo sedlo no problems, quickly at 8:30 on Jalovec summit. Surprising crowd for morning hour. An hour enjoying views. Then very careful descent along the ridge and down the other side. No special technical demands, but every step potentially deadly due to steepness and scree. At junction on saddle between Jalovec and Veliki Ozebnika descend screes above Jalovski Ozebnika towards Goličica wall. Tackled Goličica very slowly with extreme care and concentration, no issues and no need for extra protection. Then at Škrbina last break before descent into eternal shade. Descent from Škrbina relatively short and generously protected, still quite steep requiring high concentration. After last pegs descend into narrow gap between snowfield and wall and continue down along wall. I must warn, this descent is not so easy, steep and wet. For some distance still along protections, then protections end and marked path crosses to other side (cannot because of snowfield), requires some minor free climbing down. After some tens of meters descent snowfield narrows, cross it actually through a slot (probably formed in recent days), then left across scree downwards. There must cross another snowfield arm (can bypass above along wall), hard and fairly wide (15m) but quite gentle and wavy, so can cross without major problems (but no slip allowed). Descent over unpleasant scree/gravel just a formality. At Tamar a little before 14:00. Quick ice cream and beer and "fly" to Planica.
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| bos13. 08. 2018 22:30:27 |
Congrats on the tour, you have great timings.
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| jbs14. 08. 2018 10:31:33 |
bos, thanks (returning the favor for your posts with your son ). On our timings... no training or forcing, simply all weekends and free days in the mountains, so kids have fitness and coordination for such terrain. Slightly faster timings really not strenuous for them, just normal movement. Half joke half serious, the following applies. Recently read that when Marco Pantani was asked why he cycles up the hills so fast, he said he was too lazy to go slowly. If we had to hike Triglav in 6-7 hours or overnight in between, it would be too strenuous for us
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| dima14. 08. 2018 10:48:53 |
Poor kid... we don't force anything, but all weekends and free days in the mountains. I'm not saying, a million times better than PlayStation, maybe there's something else =D =D =D =D
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| simon7914. 08. 2018 11:09:06 |
Bravo, congrats from me too. You can really see from the pics that the kid is enjoying it, great. I'm going with my slightly younger one within 1 month to Kredarica/Planika and back. But I won't post it to avoid comments like the one above...
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| lijaneja14. 08. 2018 12:44:41 |
Dim always rolls slowly anyway.
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| jbs14. 08. 2018 23:52:53 |
@simon79... Kredarica or Planika from Krma is great for getting kids used to bigger elevation gains. Before their first Triglav, I took both of ours a year earlier on a scouting trip to Kredarica. In my experience, this has several advantages for kids, assuming they are sufficiently fit in advance to manage it. First, Triglav is really within reach, they are proud of their achievement, see it's not some bogeyman, and can brag that they've almost been up there, which is good motivation; second, when you later take them to Triglav, that effortful part of the path they already know, so it passes quicker for them.
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| link_15. 08. 2018 11:00:41 |
I need advice. Recently, friends with whom we went to Turska gora via Kotlice asked if I'll go with their boys (14 and 12) and their dad to Jalovec. On Turska gora I think they had no issues. They were also on Triglav from Planika and it was OK. I have concerns about Jalovec. Golicica of course is out, but from the hut...? Not sure if it's safe even with two adults? Thanks for any help.
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| SunBurned15. 08. 2018 15:38:57 |
From Zavetšče the most annoying part is the last half hour, when you ascend the very crumbly section to the ridge or summit. Kotlici are in my opinion similarly annoyingly crumbly, so if it went OK there, it will go OK on Jalovec too. Helmet is mandatory, because it really flies down a lot. Right from Zavetšče you ascend via a couple of steep cables, svk at own discretion. The slope of Veliki Ozebnik, its ridge, also requires care due to moderate crumbliness, but not precipitous.
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| jbs15. 08. 2018 20:16:08 |
Given the paths they've done, the upper part of Jalovec shouldn't be insurmountable for them, technically not demanding but very strenuous. It looks not very exposed (if you don't know there's a drop to Koritnica under the summit slope). So it's good to pick a day and hour so that the descent from the ridge isn't a thunderstorm escape, since you can't hurry there at all. Last time with my son, some foreigners were already "rolling" uphill in city sneakers, I don't know how they even got down.
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| link_15. 08. 2018 21:54:15 |
Thanks. I'll go check personally once more how it is, since I was there last a few years ago; meanwhile we'll go somewhere together, then to the "lad from the parish" and report the result.
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| cvalenti9. 12. 2018 11:00:46 |
Crazy, congratulations. Next time, if I wouldn't be in your way, I'd go with you, if possible of course? Bravo!
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| lijaneja9. 12. 2018 16:55:42 |
You probably walked from Planica already?
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