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Jalovec

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Supersport26. 02. 2024 22:34:06
Hi, if there is some candidate/f for Jalovec when conditions are OK, please message me in PM.
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lijaneja27. 02. 2024 08:22:34
In mid-March, if there are no new major precipitations, I plan to go up.
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ton15. 07. 2024 21:30:02
Hello, I'm interested in the conditions on Jalovec, past the shelter below Špička. Is it dry?
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ton15. 07. 2024 21:30:07
Hello, I'm interested in the conditions on Jalovec, past the shelter under Špička. Is it dry?
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cen23. 07. 2024 21:33:00
Me too, I'm interested if everything is already dry (over Kotovo sedlo). lp
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Lukito26. 07. 2024 15:12:06
Tamar - Kotovo sedlo - Jalovec - Goličica wall - Šite - Travnik - Kol - Vršič - Grlo - Tamar

25.7.2024

Early in the morning I drove to Planica, grabbed another coffee and two rolls at the gas station on the way. Parked, trail under feet Lukito! Through Tamar quite fresh, then quickly up the gentle screes to the junction towards Kotovo sedlo, up switchbacks past the bivouac to the saddle, left towards the climbing section and helmet on head. A chamois greets me, I refuel a bit and continue towards the summit. A bit sorry I didn't take gloves because it was cold on my hands. On the nicely secured path I quickly reached the top... and it clouded over. A few minutes in the wind, then the sun peeks through the clouds. 2-3 pictures, sign the book (two summit books at the top - one full and one new).

Descended along the ridge and at the junction met some hikers, we exchanged some words, impressions, path condition, then past the glacieret continued towards Goličica wall. Admit, a bit annoying to descend on pegs, prefer cables for that. Ascending surely easier. After descent orient a bit, then through "Obeliksovo" land to bigger boulders, miss a bit, backtrack and cairns soon show the right pathless terrain to Šite. "Trail" sticks to the left side, then need the right moment to turn towards the summit. Here probably everyone picks their own path, but generally no major issues if you don't tumble into some pronounced rocky drop.

Summit great views, built one (amateur) cairn (read: piled some stones together), then continued diagonally. No trail... but found somehow the safest variant. Mostly scree (ankles not talking to me today), need to watch because there are also some drops. Passages can be found. Then around the bend again through boulders and advance towards Travnik. Here follow chamois tracks, logical passages... and use all knowledge and experience I have to not miss it. Sometimes good to stop and think how it would look if had to return the same way.
First reached Vrh Travnika (2251m), then descended west where spotted one very nice and largely built cairn that really helped. Past cairn some trodden path appears, and slowly advance towards Travnik summit. Look towards Mojstrovke, check supplies... tough. Decided better go to Kol and descend south side on marked trail. Well, first need to get a few hundred meters lower. Descent also quite tiring/tense. Pathless.

Lower catch hunting trail and curse one hour to marked and good hour to Vršič. There stopped, ate something, drank a lot, then through Grlo descended to Tamar, first went to hut in Tamar for some liquid, then at sunset to Planica and slowly drove home. 6l fluids, 3300vm. Not the last time, someday will connect Mojstrovke too, probably much nicer than that #*&&*&^( hunting trail.

All paths dry or without peculiarities. Parking 3.5EUR.

Lp,
Lukito
First stone1
towards the bivouac2
View of the path to Kotovo sedlo (taken later)3
Kotovo sedlo, view opens to Jalovec4
Bivouac5
Trail junction6
view to the other side7
Mangart8
Bivouac9
Start of the more difficult section10
Cables help us in the upper part11
towards the summit12
below the summit13
On the summit14
15
Down the ridge16
past the ozebnika17
view towards Vršič18
View back on the Golicica wall19
path (off-trail) towards Sit20
Towards Sit21
On the top of Sit, view towards Vrsic22
View back towards Lopa23
Melisce towards Travnik24
Towards Travnik25
Below passage with mozic - above Kol26
At the summit of Travnik27
Towards Kol28
View back29
Resting on Vršič30
Towards Grlo31
Throat32
Jalovec33
(+17)like
Lukito26. 07. 2024 17:33:44
Sorry, I had some trouble with the pictures, now it seems OK.
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Daaam26. 07. 2024 17:55:26
"Ornk" tour. Bravo. For me just Jalovec from Tamar is more than enough nasmeh
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2061alessio26. 07. 2024 18:42:16
Congrats and thanks for the description and fresh info, group of Italians from central Italy, mountain place "La Maiella", next week plan from Vršič to Jalovec so I can tell about paths and parking status, thanks again mežikanje
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Tomco27. 07. 2024 19:13:08
Respect! nasmeh
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Jernej96829. 07. 2024 16:21:39
With son we climbed to the top on 27.7.2024 via Kotovo sedlo, descended via Jalovška škrbina back to Tamar. Path via Kotovo sedlo is pure pleasure. Varied, in interesting setting, with views and climbing addition in upper part. Path is fully dry. Descent to Jalovška škrbina without issues. Just couple easy steps on snow. Secured section from Jalovška škrbina to glacier is officially closed. Right at the end, just before exit from wall to scree there is one pulled peg, making safe exit difficult. Need some free climbing. Additional issue is snow in glacier to cross, as secured path continues along opposite glacier wall. Snow height here currently over 3m, narrowest point around 1m width. We made to other side through natural tunnel under snow with ice axes. Crampons not needed. Descent continuation on known scree back past Dom in Tamar and on to ski jumps.
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lijaneja29. 07. 2024 16:54:49
For passage through that hole you really don't need an ice axe. But you get your pants a bit dirty from the dirty snow.zadrega
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Jernej96830. 07. 2024 09:39:14
Lijaneja, I agree. Even just with dirty pants it would work.nasmeh
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Coko31. 07. 2024 22:08:00
Hello.
Has anyone gone to Jalovec recently from Vršič-Jalovec (past the shelter below Špička-Jalovec-Kotovo sedlo-Tamar)? Any peculiarities on this path? Is the hut/shelter below Špička operating?
Thanks for the reply,
BR
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bongo1. 08. 2024 09:36:22
Hi,
the path according to all info in recent days is without peculiarities (even if there's still some snow patch, no problems), the shelter of course is operating.
BR and good luck
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Coko1. 08. 2024 13:25:47
Excellent,
Thanks for the reply.
BR
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Tomco11. 08. 2024 11:07:23
Yesterday 10.8. on Jalovec from Planica over Kotovo sedlo and back the same.

Unfortunately I don't have such an interesting report as the predecessors (once again, hats off Lukito), but let me say that I enjoyed every single step up and down!

Since I'm relatively still a "new" mountaineer (since 2019), this was my first Jalovec. What to say, definitely a tour I won't forget easily. Terrain configuration just right, ascent to the bivouac nicely "warms you up" (haha), exposure in the climbing section always respectful, passages natural and interestingly routed, not tons of iron everywhere, views from the path down to Loška koritnica divine.

At the summit there was a huge crowd, all faces satisfied and smiling, atmosphere fantastic.

Descent back towards Kotovo requires huge concentration, but wasn't overly demanding. After rest near bivouac descent to Tamar flies by. As much huffing in the morning on ascent to the scree, that much easier downhill on descent - height is "lost" easily there, though again a bit more caution needed on exposed parts. Last part on gravel path to forest very knee-friendly. I don't remember when I last returned to the starting point with such pleasure.

We only saw two descending over the scree (don't know if from Kotovo or directly from Škrbina) and it didn't look like they were enjoying it. nasmeh So thanks to all predecessors for the reports, for the first time we were extra satisfied with the route choice. Next time around here I hope for a loop over Škrbina, I'll figure out which direction suits us better. cool

Food and beer in Tamar excellent, service quick and prices very fair.


Nice mountaineering regards.
It was worth getting up early just for this. :)1
You are really a beauty. We're coming!2
Breath-taking views from the path.3
Very carefully downhill.4
During the ascent, behind right the summit of Mangart in clouds. Unfortunately, we had them at the summit too.5
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(+5)like
Tomco11. 08. 2024 11:20:09
If I may ask one more question for the more experienced.
If ascending without any aid from fixed gear, could the most difficult passages on the climbing over Kotovo sedlo be rated higher than II.?
(+1)like
jax11. 08. 2024 12:02:46
I doubt it.
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Tomco11. 08. 2024 12:32:06
Or rather, I would rephrase the question - whether any of the more difficult passages could be rated with more than II. I would rate them laymanly (!) at II myself, but there was at least one part where curiosity plagued me if it could already be III. If not even one such right visible above in picture 4 - after crossing the gully there is a completely vertical part, cca 5 m, leading to the ledge higher. In the picture there are two hikers behind right under it.

Not very important question, but so, a bit for the feel... nasmeh
(+1)like
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