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Jalovec

Jernej96829. 07. 2024 16:21:39

With son we climbed to the top on 27.7.2024 via Kotovo sedlo, descended via Jalovška škrbina back to Tamar. Path via Kotovo sedlo is pure pleasure. Varied, in interesting setting, with views and climbing addition in upper part. Path is fully dry. Descent to Jalovška škrbina without issues. Just couple easy steps on snow. Secured section from Jalovška škrbina to glacier is officially closed. Right at the end, just before exit from wall to scree there is one pulled peg, making safe exit difficult. Need some free climbing. Additional issue is snow in glacier to cross, as secured path continues along opposite glacier wall. Snow height here currently over 3m, narrowest point around 1m width. We made to other side through natural tunnel under snow with ice axes. Crampons not needed. Descent continuation on known scree back past Dom in Tamar and on to ski jumps.

(+8)

lijaneja29. 07. 2024 16:54:49

For passage through that hole you really don't need an ice axe. But you get your pants a bit dirty from the dirty snow. zadrega

(+1)

Jernej96830. 07. 2024 09:39:14

Lijaneja, I agree. Even just with dirty pants it would work. nasmeh

Coko31. 07. 2024 22:08:00

Hello.
Has anyone gone to Jalovec recently from Vršič-Jalovec (past the shelter below Špička-Jalovec-Kotovo sedlo-Tamar)? Any peculiarities on this path? Is the hut/shelter below Špička operating?
Thanks for the reply,
BR

bongo1. 08. 2024 09:36:22

Hi,
the path according to all info in recent days is without peculiarities (even if there's still some snow patch, no problems), the shelter of course is operating.
BR and good luck

(+1)

Coko1. 08. 2024 13:25:47

Excellent,
Thanks for the reply.
BR

Tomco11. 08. 2024 11:07:23

Yesterday 10.8. on Jalovec from Planica over Kotovo sedlo and back the same.

Unfortunately I don't have such an interesting report as the predecessors (once again, hats off Lukito), but let me say that I enjoyed every single step up and down!

Since I'm relatively still a "new" mountaineer (since 2019), this was my first Jalovec. What to say, definitely a tour I won't forget easily. Terrain configuration just right, ascent to the bivouac nicely "warms you up" (haha), exposure in the climbing section always respectful, passages natural and interestingly routed, not tons of iron everywhere, views from the path down to Loška koritnica divine.

At the summit there was a huge crowd, all faces satisfied and smiling, atmosphere fantastic.

Descent back towards Kotovo requires huge concentration, but wasn't overly demanding. After rest near bivouac descent to Tamar flies by. As much huffing in the morning on ascent to the scree, that much easier downhill on descent - height is "lost" easily there, though again a bit more caution needed on exposed parts. Last part on gravel path to forest very knee-friendly. I don't remember when I last returned to the starting point with such pleasure.

We only saw two descending over the scree (don't know if from Kotovo or directly from Škrbina) and it didn't look like they were enjoying it. nasmeh

So thanks to all predecessors for the reports, for the first time we were extra satisfied with the route choice. Next time around here I hope for a loop over Škrbina, I'll figure out which direction suits us better. cool

Food and beer in Tamar excellent, service quick and prices very fair.

Nice mountaineering regards.

It was worth getting up early just for this. :)

During the ascent, behind right the summit of Mangart in clouds. Unfortunately, we had them at the summit too.

(+5)

Tomco11. 08. 2024 11:20:09

If I may ask one more question for the more experienced.
If ascending without any aid from fixed gear, could the most difficult passages on the climbing over Kotovo sedlo be rated higher than II.?

(+1)

jax11. 08. 2024 12:02:46

I doubt it.

Tomco11. 08. 2024 12:32:06

Or rather, I would rephrase the question - whether any of the more difficult passages could be rated with more than II. I would rate them laymanly (!) at II myself, but there was at least one part where curiosity plagued me if it could already be III. If not even one such right visible above in picture 4 - after crossing the gully there is a completely vertical part, cca 5 m, leading to the ledge higher. In the picture there are two hikers behind right under it.

Not very important question, but so, a bit for the feel... nasmeh

(+1)

dprapr11. 08. 2024 18:03:30

Why rate difficulty on a marked path? Join an AO and you'll learn difficulty ratings in the walls.
And walking on a secured path and deliberately not using the protections, is dangerous and irresponsible. To yourself and to possible companions.

(+5)

Tomco11. 08. 2024 21:55:59

@dprapr: You're right, safety must always come first. I didn't intend to promote this practice and it's by no means a regular thing from my side. Least of all on even more demanding paths like this one we're talking about here. I agree and can only endorse your comment.

But still. nasmeh

There can be exceptions. Specifically here on the path from Kotovo sedlo the rock is mostly very compact and super featured, it was a real pleasure to grab it. I also understand people who sometimes comment that on some ZPP there's more iron than necessary. What "necessary" means is of course often completely individual, so I think it's no sin to grab good rock instead of a peg on ZPP sometimes. Of course as long as you don't endanger others' safety. I can say I didn't do anything that was outside my own comfort zone, nor would I do something like that on such a path if I were in a more "beginner" phase.

But yeah, not to philosophize too much, in the long term I'll have to think about joining some AO. Before I actually start doing any bigger stupidities zadrega

(+3)

dprapr12. 08. 2024 06:17:57

In Austrian mountains there are beautiful paths that are only marked and rated for difficulty. But they are equipped with bolts for possible belaying. Just yesterday I was on a beautiful hill, Admonter Reichenstein, which has only such a path to the top.
I miss such paths with us. With us they over-iron every path and deprive you of the pleasure of climbing. That's why such behaviors and questions similar to yours appear then.
I wish you safe on the paths.

(+3)

turbo12. 08. 2024 06:42:43

Same in ITA, say Karnics. Bolli rossi, red marks for orientation, on harder spots anchors, either for belaying on ascent or rope descent on return. In between scrambling up to solid grade II, sometimes a bit more. But these are "pathless paths", so not listed/marked/numbered as CAI paths. Real treat, at least for me better than secured paths, klettersteigs and ferratas.

(+2)

Lukito12. 08. 2024 09:25:23

If you really wanna try it somewhat "responsibly", take a via ferrata kit and clip in. Then once clipped climb without using pegs or cables. If you fall you won't go to the bottom, consequences just a bump or... worse. Of course own responsibility.

Trobec12. 08. 2024 13:24:48

Visoka Rezjanka is such example of "marked pathless" (just marks no protections) and this one's at least half ours...main part along the border velik nasmeh

Or from Bavški Grintavec over Brdo. Still in path register, but no protections, almost no marks anymore.

Lukito12. 08. 2024 13:29:14

Isn't the path closed at B. Grintavec?

Trobec12. 08. 2024 13:37:02

Over Kanjo. Over Brdo, as far as I know, no... unless something new.

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darinka412. 08. 2024 13:37:59

From Bavšica over Vrh Ruš, Vrh Brda and over Mali Grintavec the path is long but open.

(+1)

lijaneja30. 08. 2024 15:48:23

This year's winter ascent went down the drain, so yesterday I replaced it with a summer one.
Now I'm used to getting up early jezik

, even in the dark I step onto the white road towards Tamar. In front of the hut peaceful silence, so I don't disturb the idyll and immediately shift into second gear. Wonderful walking in morning coolness, in Mali kot I turn right into steepness, where sun soon greets me. At bivouac I don't stop but rush past, in first rocks above Kotovo sedlo I put down poles. Almost to the top I enjoy shady climbing. Up top I meet three, four people, no hurry down. Some wire ropes very loose, one piton dangling, huge rock leaning on one wire rope, so it's tense like a string. Since I had plenty of time, weather showed no changes, I visited Mali Jalovec and Špica v Planji too, at fresh bivouac stayed good hour.
After feast in hut then looong hike on white road. mrk pogled