| jax19. 07. 2012 21:01:26 |
Today finally to Kočna (actually both). Standard route: Suhadolnik-Grdi Graben-Dolci-bivak-Kokrska Kočna-Jezerska Kočna-Dolška Škrbina-Dolci-Kokrsko Sedlo-Suhadolnik.
What can I say about the path? Grdi Graben is, with due respect to the upper rocky part, in my opinion the hardest part of the tour. Nomen est omen. The crossing is on the edge of suicide, the grass is monstrously steep, the path barely exists. Luckily not very wet today and it somehow went. Highlight definitely the few-meter descent down almost vertical muddy gully. Hello? Luckily there's a cable there, otherwise I really don't know how it would go. In defense of Grdi Graben I can say only that it's really that bad only in the shorter central part, the rest is manageable. Somewhere there when you steeply descend into that gully, the hardest is more or less over.
Further: Dolci are one of many high mountain corners that almost exceed kitsch border. But still nice when you get there and think that not everyone can ... (though not too bad over Ovnov Čir).
Ascent over scree still strenuous. Up there clouds caught me and I was in small trouble, because on scree the path is of course very hard to mark and hard to follow in poor visibility. But luckily lots of cairns, so it went.
Path to Kokrska Kočna pure pleasure. Really, almost unsecured, but extremely nicely routed and nowhere really hard. Real gymnastics.
On Kokrska Kočna hurricane wind. Didn't even linger, though summit nice and spacious. Terrifying gusts followed me practically the whole tour almost to Suhadolnik.
Ridge path nicely routed and mostly well secured, at two spots pegs worn, but with some care it goes (harder in the other direction). A bit harder that passage over chimneys just before Jezerska Kočna, where I uttered some curses and was grateful for some climbing experience. On (or under, to the top grill I jumped just for a moment) Jezerska Kočna conditions calmed for a moment, still no special visibility. But I was very satisfied with the tour so far, though the belly passage hung over me like Damocles' sword.
Descent to Dolška Škrbina like this: overall easier than path over K. Kočna, that little chimney under summit is secured (admittedly somewhat awkwardly placed pegs and loose cable, but usable), with some sober head it goes. Then mostly no problems, belly passage totally overrated (as for difficulty). I understand problems of those very plump or maybe claustrophobic, but really no problem to squeeze through there. And I'm quite stocky. Before I was afraid my rucksack might tumble into abyss, but not very likely. No need for cable here in my view, since passage neither demanding nor dangerous. But interesting, something special. There's also something else that stuck in memory. Overlooked in description (and at Stritar) steep chimney just above Dolška Škrbina. Already after turnoff to Češka Koča, when one thinks all bad is over, marks go straight down. I thought hello, surely bypass, but path goes there. And not couple moves, but about twenty meters almost straight very steeply down. Here, my opinion, HERE a cable would be needed. Not in belly though. Quite some nerves needed to downclimb that. Reward was scree under Dolška Škrbina. Then I decided not to go back to Grdi Graben and rather crossed over Ovnov Čir. That's some extra elevation, path nice and scenic. Still not to underestimate - though much easier than Grdi Graben, basically still same thing - crossing very steep slopes on narrow path where slip is basically forbidden. But ok, sure footstep goes. Day ended with beer at Kokrsko Sedlo, must admit very satisfied with the tour. Beautiful, varied, demanding, strenuous, actually all that (at least marked) hills can offer. Kočna definitely not for everyone, but highly recommend to those who can handle it.
Oh, and one more: even when you descend to Kokrsko and watch all those coming from Grintavec, you feel good 
By the way: some pics taken. If I judge worth posting among all pro photographers, maybe I will.
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