| VanSims27. 08. 2013 20:48:46 |
On Saturday (10.8.) I went to Montazh. Due to preparations for vacation I arrived at Pecol only around 12 pm. The weather forecast was good after a few rainy days; when driving towards Rateče the sun was still shining, but when driving towards Na žlebeh and Pecol clouds had already appeared. At Pecol firefighters first didn't let me through, then when I returned to the junction after about 10 min., they told me to go but to hurry.
At Pecol of course full of firefighters, Italian and Austrian. I look towards Montazh and the summit ridge was in fog. Hmm...  I reach Brazza and see that no one continues further. Usually crowds roll along. Well, OK, to wherever I get. I head towards Forca dei Disteis pass. On the way I meet one marmot.
At the pass I rest a bit then continue, maybe the fog will dissipate. I go past memorial plaques at the start of the climbing section. There is also a plaque of a deceased Triestine mountaineer from two years ago who came to Montazh to scatter the ashes of his also deceased brother (who died in unusual circumstances too) and lightning struck him on Pipan's ladder. Mom left without both sons...
I start climbing the gullies and soon enter the fog, which meanwhile had descended lower towards the saddle. Continue or not? Visibility was about 20-30 meters, markings were well visible but I feared the fog would thicken. Can't see the valley either, only hear helicopter sounds dumping water on the fire. After gullies and initial climbing and past the branch to Leva towards Pipan's ladder, I run into a goat with kid standing right on my path. Won't move. What now? If I approach it might react defensively right away. Could bypass it on the right but in fog couldn't see well if safely (when descending and fog gone I saw it would be easy) so I go left into scree which was just sufficiently dangerous for slipping. Well, but it went.
After about 10-15 min I see PIPAN written on a rock and then after approx. as much I reach the pegs leading to the ladder itself. This section with pegs seemed to me on the way up the most tricky, the ladder itself not so much. Just before starting up the ladder, two Croats come down. Those were the only two mountaineers I met that day. At the start the ladder looks short (didn't quite imagine what 60 meters means). When I reach about a quarter and look over I see it rises steeply further, though due to fog the whole wasn't visible. Ladder shakes slightly but not too much. I suspect they made it like that on purpose for a bit more adrenaline.  For the ladder really recommend self-belaying, especially on descent.
After the ladder, I climb a few easy gullies and I'm on the ridge. Technically not demanding but exposed with deep (and also beautiful as I see on return) views. The ridge path drags a bit, finally reach the cross with bell. I ring mainly for safe return. While snacking mountains start appearing in distance. For a moment Kanin shows too. Then blue sky.  
When starting descent views open more to the right to Pecol, Reklanska valley, Kanin... to the left to Zajzera, Kamniti lovec, Višarije, Viška group, Ponce, other Julijci, towards Karavanke towards Kepa. When back to gullies fog almost completely dissipated. I go down Lojtra, then starts a bit torturous descent on steep scree. Unfortunately no easier descent path from Montazh here. Afternoon tilting into nice clear evening. On the way again see goat with kid (maybe same as on ascent), then do gullies and bit unpleasant downclimbing and approaching saddle.
All the way wondered where those ibex are that everyone talks about here? Didn't see due to fog? Maybe, because when back to saddle they surprise me: I count 22. Just staring at them as if posed there just for me. Maybe the two ibex clashing horns were just demonstrating! How it clangs, like hammering rock!  Start descending to Pecol but gaze keeps going back to saddle and ibex. Magnificent, nothing else!
Back then direct to Pecol and arrive just before firefighters base. Almost night already. On road to car see big barrels for water transport by helicopters beside it. When to car, drive to Trbiž, there beer and ice cream then back to Slovenia towards Sunday goal.
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