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| klm7. 08. 2012 12:26:39 |
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| snežinkica7. 08. 2012 12:51:27 |
Cebelca, books nicely describe definitions of climbing grades, sometimes if it interests us of course it's good to read something, I think it's well explained in the book Proti vrhovom, otherwise there's plenty of such literature...
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| Keko7. 08. 2012 13:34:19 |
Climbing difficulties are defined roughly like this. I. easy, minor difficulties: Simplest form of rock climbing. Wall is fairly gentle, strongly fractured, many holds and footholds, hands used only for balance, rope not necessarily needed. II. medium difficult, moderate difficulties: Wall already steeper, must follow three points of support rule when climbing. Rope and pitons recommended at belay stance. III. difficult, medium difficulties: Wall steep, requires mastery of various climbing techniques. Vertical spots or overhangs require arm strength. Pitons used at belays and intermediate protection on exposed parts. IV. very difficult, considerable difficulties: Start of serious demanding climbing, climber needs significant experience. Longer sections require more intermediate protections. V. extremely difficult, very great difficulties: Climber must be physically and mentally prepared and technically skilled for ascents. Number of intermediate protections increases. VI. extremely difficult, exceptionally great difficulties: Requires excellent physical and mental fitness. Great exposure in wall, small stances. VII. exceptionally difficult: Difficulties rated this grade overcome only after special training and best gear. VIII. to XI No definitions yet for these grades. Wall difficulty mostly depends on overhang, number and placement of holds/footholds, rock firmness, protection options. Climbing on edge of fall, requires acrobatic skills. Three points rule often impossible.
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| cebelca8. 08. 2012 08:13:04 |
Snežinkica, it would help me more if you simply answered my question, since definitions we probably all know, right? I asked because I was surprised some think Škrlatica doesn't involve grade 1 climbing. To me personally it seems it does. That's why I asked, to know for future when reading a description what to expect.
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| snežinkica8. 08. 2012 08:29:46 |
About expectations on forum descriptions or otherwise we can't speak of objectivity, but we get a subjective assessment, so I still claim that to get info you need to reach for literature.
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| Marky8. 08. 2012 08:43:20 |
We need to distinguish between hiking and climbing. When talking about hiking there are easy, demanding, very demanding and extremely demanding paths, while in climbing everything is marked with numbers and letters. It also needs to be mentioned that climbing grades I and II are no longer mentioned, because they fall under hiking or are covered by very demanding path. We start talking about climbing only from grade III onwards. But, this is a topic about conditions on Škrlatica, so we can say more in the general debate. Otherwise Škrlatica is considered quite a demanding ascent, as besides technically demanding terrain we also need to consider that there are no huts on the path itself and only one bivouac, and even that in the middle of the path. Recommended daily elevation gain is 1600m, while on ascent to Škrlatica from Aljažev dom we do cca. 1900m (all ascents and descents). Stay safe in the mountains all together 
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| ljubitelj gora8. 08. 2012 09:09:43 |
When the path is marked and secured, one cannot talk about any grades, but around Škrlatica there are peaks that are not marked and secured, there one can talk about grades, very demanding pathless terrain... enjoyable reading. http://atumraasar.tripod.com/klasifikacija.htm
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| Zebdi8. 08. 2012 09:28:24 |
Official UIAA scale still includes I. and II. climbing grade ; description of both grades we can read in Kek's post. Even on some marked path we can face easier climbing, it is true though that it probably won't reach X. grade  And yes, mentioned part of path to Škrlatica matches I. grade description... even on Mrzla gora we could calmly talk about climbing, because I'd like to see the one who walks over summit part with hands in pockets...
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| jožka8. 08. 2012 09:56:29 |
When will hikers finally start evaluating themselves and not the paths that are already evaluated by professional criteria. (Here every amateur evaluates every path by his own in-/capability and thus confusion arises) Your Jožka
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| jprim8. 08. 2012 10:06:00 |
Well, Jožka appeared again to spice up the debate, provide smart comments, so we are all amateurs.   LP!
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| merkur8. 08. 2012 10:14:14 |
Amateurs have been, are and will be, only before paths were mostly rated in taverns and mountain huts, today more and more on forums. In every period among the crowd someone is found who simply looks into professional literature; there aren't few and mostly offer satisfactory level of objectivity. But I agree that marked unsecured Skrlatica ledges of upper path part are suitable for gaining feeling what I. "climbing" grade actually is ...
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| ibex8. 08. 2012 14:45:33 |
6.8. Aljažev dom-Skrlatica
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| pohodni8. 08. 2012 17:02:54 |
With my older son we decided today to leave all women with sore legs from previous tours at home. So we could let off steam, turn on turbo and check what we can still manage. Sun didn't bother us at fast pace as it was hiding behind clouds all the time. But sweat flowed in streams anyway, as a bit of breeze appeared only in upper half of path. But fog appeared there too and deprived us of views. It cleared a bit only at top of Skrlatica, but just enough to peek a bit to north side. If I compare a bit the path from Vrata to Skrlatica with path to Triglav via Plemenice which we did a couple days ago, I'd say this to Skrlatica is at least in climbing part somewhat easier, as for scrambling in rest of path they are quite comparable. Steel cables where self-securing is possible are few on both paths. Experienced mountaineer who has enough condition to hike such path in one day shouldn't have problems with path difficulty either, beginners should practice on easier shorter paths. Lp.
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| ibex8. 08. 2012 18:49:55 |
Pity the weather isn't better these days, just for the views... congratulations on the ascent
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| jannika8. 08. 2012 22:10:05 |
Bravo "pohodni"..well written. I'm curious how much time you needed up and down, as I have Škrlatica planned this year too to know a bit. I already went up and down via Plemenice to Triglav. lp
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| pohodni9. 08. 2012 07:51:41 |
First, thanks to both for the congratulations. As I wrote in the post, we set out also with the intention to go a bit faster, so our time (3 hours up and 2 hours down) isn't the most relevant. If you add approx. 1.5 hours each way, then it's normal pace, still above-average fast. In any case, the path to Škrlatica is time-wise a bit shorter than the path via Plemenice to Triglav, though the elevation gain is almost the same. Safe journey.
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| _katja_19. 08. 2012 08:33:20 |
Yesterday, 18.8., I did the tour. Vrata was lively already at night, so you need to be early for parking. The tour was nice, the climbing part at the end super. The rock has big holds, so there's always something to grab. Luckily we were among the first, so we only had to wait a bit on the descent for everyone to line up. Safe steps!
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| -i-7. 09. 2012 12:39:15 |
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