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To Triglav?

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Irina6. 02. 2012 18:17:27
@janez.novak,
I wouldn't quite agree with your opinion that any high mountain path in winter conditions is relatively easy.
A month ago we said goodbye to an experienced female mountaineer who slipped exactly on this path and never returned home.

On these pages we admire beautiful photos of winter ascents. And incidentally someone gets the feeling that snow-covered paths aren't so very dangerous. Actually at first glance everything looks so inviting and not at all demanding. Is it really?
Especially in winter months, go to the mountains only if you are really experienced or in the company of experienced ones.

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lijaneja6. 02. 2012 18:51:38
Irina, Janez just wanted to say that between Krma and Kredarica there are no cables, so no harness needed on this path.
The late Dr. Pirih in bad weather conditions strayed quite far from the route where a harness wouldn't have helped either. Sadly.
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urbancek6. 02. 2012 19:40:03
"self-belay harness" doesn't exist... At most self-belay kitmežikanje
And it doesn't belong to winter gear, sincevelik nasmeh in winter the cables should be under snow...
If anything, then helmet belongs more to mandatory gear along with crampons and ice axe...

Good luck!
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Irina6. 02. 2012 22:04:48
lijaneja 6.2.2012,
true, in the first sentence Janez wrote that caniggia doesn't need a self-belay kit which holds true because there are no cables and pegs on the path and as urbanček said even if they were under snow they wouldn't help ..... but, in the second sentence he wrote that the path in winter is relatively easy.

Look, that's what bothered me. In winter in high mountains there are no easy paths. That's all I wanted to say.

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janez.novak6. 02. 2012 22:24:28
I agree with Irena that in winter it's completely different than in summer. In winter I walk only those paths that I've traversed multiple times in summer and that aren't orientationally complicated. A few years ago I was descending in winter from Stenar under the Bivouac at Rušje (path to Škrlatica). Under Stenar I went a bit too far left (need to go in the direction of Cmira summit) and almost got lost - I got tangled in bushes and rocks - and this isn't a technically difficult path. Regarding relative ease I meant comparison with paths to Begunjščica (Central gully), Pripravniška gully on MM, path to VM, Jalovški ozebnik, MDV etc. In good weather, when there's no avalanche danger, a properly equipped mountaineer with appropriate gear can traverse it without major risks.
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Zebdi6. 02. 2012 22:30:51
I understood this a bit differently though. He didn't write that the path is easy, but that it's "relatively easy". I understand it as easy for winter conditions, not generally speaking - which very likely holds true. Otherwise it's very hard to compare summer and winter paths and I think it's right that if comparing by difficulty, compare summer ones among themselves and winter ones among themselves.

EDIT: Aha, I was a bit late with the post. Well, obviously I was thinking right nasmeh
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gvodopivec7. 02. 2012 09:05:36
Hello, does anyone perhaps know what the conditions are like in Vrata Valley?? How far by car? thanks and best regards
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Irina9. 02. 2012 17:25:33
caniggia 6.2.2012
And how did your intention to visit Kredarica/Triglav end?
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IgorZlodej9. 02. 2012 17:48:13
Madonca, I haven't been to Triglav yet this year I say to myself and drive to Trenta. Conditions are more or less known to me, this time the "highway" from Krma (supposedly impassable yesterday), and the one further to the summit doesn't interest me.

For the old Kugyjevo, which seems to me incidentally the most beautiful path to Triglav, there's still too little snow, so I turn up into Komar. Of course already under the "sign" I put on crampons. The gully with the boulder is nicely filled, snow packed. Whoever doesn't know the summer path shouldn't attempt such a feat. Sometimes I use fixed cables, sometimes wade to knees. Transitions from gully to gully require some concentration. Higher up I reach a wide snowfield. I go straight up and left along the rocks. My phone rings in the backpack, I know it's her, so I answer, otherwise I wouldn't. Snow holds excellently, soon I'm on the mulatiera. But where the heck is it?

Along "it" I go just a few 100 meters, then turn to winter passages, and right under Z wall of Kanjavec and straight up to Dolič. Wind from west, so I go to shelter behind the hut, drink something, then up to the plateau where the new hut should stand. Traverse left and there I see it, proudly standing above ZTP. Some places windblown to ice (in December rain fell very high), prefer walking on hard crust. Soon under the "wall". First part almost vertical, gully under Bovška škrbina nicely filled. Pleasure to walk on such snow. Soon spot Planika, sun, no wind, warm. On Mali Triglav spot two. So it wasn't that bad from Krma as they wrote yesterday. I dash to the summit. View as I'm used to for years. Sit until those two reach the top, takes them quite a while.

Wondering who they could be. I know most of the "real" ones, we meet up there for years. Meanwhile she calls, wishes safe descent.

Those two walk slowly, stop every few meters, foreign language. Finally they arrive, one is Zoltan, don't know the other's name, Hungarians, supposedly came from Krma yesterday, slept at Kredarica. What were they doing until 12:00!? When it's just a good hour up or less for fast ones.

Soon I say goodbye, down goes much easier though carefully. When I'm already far below on the slopes, AB 412 roars around Triglav, weather guys changing. Go down towards Dolič. For Miha I photo the location of the new hut. At old Dolič, short break again, drink, then back down via Komar. Descent is always annoying, even dry, more in snow. But no problem for me. In Zadnjica I stop by Vinko and Justi, they're alone there in winter, rarely go to Bovec, but it's so nice there, they seem happy to me.

Rarely possible in February from Trenta to Triglav, this time gorgeous, ideal conditionsnasmeh, and great company toonasmeh.
In the middle of Komar, a sunbeam crosses Jalovec.1
Here it's steep down.2
One of the last gullies, harder in summer than now in the snow.3
4 or 5 such crossings.4
Sun on Dolič.5
Hut on Dolič, Tržaška has been gone for a long time.6
Ice, snow, sun, yeah that's winter.7
Look, look how it's waiting.8
No poles to ease the ascent to Bovško škrbina.9
Here the view opens to beautiful Gorenjska.10
The summit is already close.11
She told me something nice.12
These two Hungarians are good.13
Going down so I can come up again next time.14
Oh, here someone walked, down from Bovška (Triglavska) škrbina.15
The old team flies to the valley, first they view Triglav summit.16
For those who forgot, no bivouac on Dolič.17
Again down through Komar.18
Still through the gully with the boulder, then I'll already be in the valley, almost.19
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otiv9. 02. 2012 18:41:35
Probably both were happy with coffee when they "sat a bit" on top of Triglav. And we're happy too when we have all this before our eyes. Bravo Igor!nasmeh
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turbo9. 02. 2012 19:23:15
What about that one who wished him a safe descent zavijanje z očmi
Wasn't she happy zmeden
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ljubitelj gora9. 02. 2012 19:32:29
Picture 96139, which mountains are seen in the back.zmeden
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majčica9. 02. 2012 19:38:56
Bravo Igor, it's nice to read you.nasmeh
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JTrogar9. 02. 2012 20:02:44
Igor, congrats on the very nice ascent. Nice photos and even nicer comment.
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caniggia11. 02. 2012 17:41:10
Bravo Igor, hats off to you, on that day I made it to Kredarica, weather super, in the hut we slept me and those two Hungarians, they told me they had quite big problems on Mali Triglav, not sure exactly where since I haven't been up there yet, seems there's a pretty dangerous passage somewhere, hard to communicate with them, they took about 9 hours, kred-trig., We did the descent together. lp
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lijaneja11. 02. 2012 20:50:37
In picture 96139, in front is the grey Goličica, behind you can see Rob of Velika Dnina, Travnik, and Zadnja and Velika Mojstrovka.
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urross29. 02. 2012 20:52:04
Today from Krma to Triglav, road without chains almost impassable. For the start of the path you'd almost need fishing boots, since everything is under water, further on it's quite icy so crampons to Kredarica are quite recommended. At Kredarica wind blowing between 90 and 120 km/h, with gusts up to 170 km/h. To Mali Triglav quite south-facing, crampons have no grip, for ice axe too little snow, later no more problems. Return on pure south snow sinks up to your ass nasmeh, down below everything under water like that nasmeh.
Safe hiking to all
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anzecokl1. 03. 2012 10:43:32
uross nice pics! Is there still any snow in Krma up to where you can drive by car on the meadows or has it all melted away?
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milpor1. 03. 2012 13:49:06
Yesterday together with Urross from Krma to Triglav. Attaching some of my photos too!
On the path from Kredarica towards Pragarca I lost my blue Acamp ice axe. If someone finds it, please contact me via private message. Thanks!
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ljubitelj gora1. 03. 2012 15:02:53
Congratulations to both for this feat.velik nasmeh
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