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| monter16. 01. 2009 17:02:07 |
yeah, this viharnik and triglavski are really a bit too smart.
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| triglavski16. 01. 2009 17:44:00 |
Usually in winter you belay on ice axe, so smart guys up or down.
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| viharnik16. 01. 2009 17:44:13 |
As for me regarding mountaineering, I'm still far behind Triglavski, but 27 years of experience in the mountains and some visits and courses with alpinists are not foreign to me. I say what I know and ask what is sometimes a bit unusual in the summer season. Monter, it makes me laugh! Lp-Rok-electro monter.
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| geppo16. 01. 2009 18:15:05 |
In the mountains you learn throughout your lifetime, as long as you're able to visit and observe them. Neither of them is too smart - they just observe and warn / describe in their own mountaineering way - which is also what this website is for.
Best regards
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| ugn16. 01. 2009 18:36:52 |
The winter approach to Trglav is an alpinistic ascent, so the use of mountaineering protection techniques is not appropriate.
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| strelec16. 01. 2009 18:47:37 |
Dear mountaineers, I sincerely apologize to all of you for this because we had self-belay kits on us, we also had ice axes, crampons, helmets, I had Tarok cards in the backpack pocket too - so much about that - we safely got to the top and back too - we didn't need harnesses - Tarok cards neither and we had a nice time despite your polemic about safety gear.
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| fpetel116. 01. 2009 20:26:25 |
I will also take everything with me (with self-belay etc., ice axe no.2 someone will lend me for the top, if there's any need at all) - and to gather some fitness, if nothing else. There will be alpinists with us too and some rope to belay if needed. In case of lack of courage or will for the top, I think Kredarica is a nice goal too and enjoyable spending of free time with view on the Highest. And best regards.
Franci
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| monter16. 01. 2009 22:02:13 |
viharnik, what did you mean by that when you wrote "I also feel that it's still winter". Probably a bit perceptive, j... you. Strelec had all equipment and even a bit more.
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| triglavski17. 01. 2009 06:28:14 |
I think viharnik didn't mean anything bad, but it's true that an excess doesn't hurt the head, just makes the backpack a bit heavier. This involuntarily reminds me of two hikers who last summer with similar gear headed from Soča village to Bavški Grintavec. Up still went okay, though they had no place to clip even a cm to belay, down they got helicoptered out. The point isn't what you see and what not, but what you know about the route and what not and how you prepared for it, if at all. Good prep means half the trip is done. Hope this doesn't turn into unnecessary polemic again.
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| husky17. 01. 2009 07:49:50 |
I see nothing controversial in the self-belay kit. Triglav has fixed ropes anyway and if they're not everywhere under snow (as seen from pics), then I don't know why not self-belay on those ropes. This ice axe belay seems a bit Czech to me and I haven't seen it live except climbing steep gullies and waterfalls, where it has completely different purpose. Can't imagine well how ice axe unless buried to head in hard snow holds a faller.
Usually on such paths ice axe is for balance and nothing else, as fall arrest theory sadly has little in common with reality....
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| viharnik17. 01. 2009 08:21:17 |
I think Triglavski with mountain rescuer license taught us vividly enough how to do alpine approach in winter conditions. Use of belay kit is on just a few meters of entire ascent route useless and sometimes annoying because belay line changes (ice axe or rope). Such belay isn't practiced in winters. Best is solo or in twos (with always taut rope) so in case of slip there's not too much force on belayed. Strelec shouldn't apologize at all. I as teen with buddy did stupid stuff too (unprotected ascent over then '88 torn rusty ropes straight up open wall NW wall Prisanka-Hanzova right above Lojtra-shelf). Deep below feet I saw only spruces! Anecdote pupil-master; Pupil apologizes to sage for mistake (spiritual growth). Old man says he's not resentful and yesterday is past for him... PRESENT=spirit.ascent. To Strelec wish many more nice ascents. Rok
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| fpetel118. 01. 2009 19:48:30 |
At Kredarica a group of 15 from Brežice and 4 from PD Koper slept over. Today's weather was very windy from the morning (gusts well over 100km/h), so only two summited out of 7 who tried and turned at Mali Triglav. The route from Radovna is long because to Štala where you park in summer it's a good 7km walk. Today's conditions for descent weren't great either. Too much wind (especially upper part) and lower down the wind brought down quite wet snow.
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| damjan95. 02. 2009 12:34:02 |
I'm curious how it is in winter to go to Kredarica and from which direction. Start from Pokljuka early March.
Curious what I must have as winter essentials besides (crampons, ice axe, helmet, rope,?) and if the timing is appropriate.
I'd prefer to join some group.
Can you give me some advice?
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| Klin5. 02. 2009 15:08:30 |
If avalanche conditions are favorable you can go to Kredarica or Triglav any month. Recommend ascent from Krma.
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| perci21. 02. 2009 13:36:32 |
Yesterday I was at Kredarica. At 7 I started from Krma - park 1h walk from barrier.
Total to the top took me a bit less than 8h (including the flat).
I put on crampons for the last 100m up because otherwise it's hard to walk - slippery. Buddy who went with boots for automatic crampons didn't put them on.
Calvary drags on until 3pm.
Hut at Kredarica cold as a pig, so we decided not to overnight and headed back same day. Four stayed up and slept over, we started down at 4pm and were at the car at 7pm. We jogged down a bit, on some parts (calvary) even slid down on our butts. You sit down, easily stick the ice axe and slide  .
Damjan, besides proper clothes and shoes for Kredarica you need:
-gaiters
-ice axe
-crampons
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| Bojan_A22. 02. 2009 08:12:38 |
That you took 8h means the snow must have sunk really deep.
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| perci22. 02. 2009 16:45:57 |
It sank on the calvary. The problem was the steps weren't nice and fell apart when you stepped into them. So I preferred to put on crampons.
Anyway I'm not among the fastest, first time to Kredarica in winter, not much fitness .
Of the walkers we met, two up in 7h, two in 9h. So we were some golden mean. The 4 who went up with skins were much faster. Twice as fast I dare say. But that's a completely different fitness category. If I'd sprinted all out, maybe up in 7h but then I couldn't get down .
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| Bojan_A22. 02. 2009 19:24:22 |
Aha. Triglav tempts me too. Been to Kredarica in winter already but not solo.
Hope to find someone to go with me.
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| pikec122. 02. 2009 20:06:52 |
Me too it's tempting again, last year I turned back at Mali Triglav, so need to complete the ascent
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| UROS11. 04. 2009 08:29:32 |
LET'S GO TO TRIGLAV THIS WEEKEND, IN ONE DAY - ANYONE JOINING??
Best regards, Uroš
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