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To Triglav?

redbull25. 05. 2017 10:50:04

Great video-Bravo team

janez.novak25. 05. 2017 17:43:37

Nice

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j.30. 05. 2017 10:32:45

Yesterday I went via Tominšek route, at one snow patch I took the ice axe in hand (snow will be there at least three more weeks). On the slings there are one or two pulled pegs, but it still holds well.

From the spring onwards there's snow, but it sinks only to the ankle, here and there (especially near rocks) a bit deeper. Access to Triglav summit is somewhat schizophrenic (regarding winter gear). On Mali Triglav you need crampons for easier ascent on the entry slope, the traverse is completely dry, then there are on two or three spots shorter sections covered with frozen snow remnants, but slings are visible. At the approx. 5m long snowy traverse across the gully with deep footprints no slings visible, use ice axe. On the rest crampons are more hindrance than help. The ridge from Mali to Veliki Triglav is more or less snowy, but fixed protections are also visible. I took off crampons before the traverse on MT and didn't use them anymore, not even on descent. Maybe sensible to wait till end of ridge (for safer walking on snowy ridge) and then remove them, as not needed for summit ascent itself. Ice axe is mandatory though!

From summit a paraglider flew off, at Kredarica there were two or three guides with clients, some pleasure seekers came up in shorts. Don't know why, but with the friendliness of meteorologists I feel at home at Kredarica in winter! Weather in morning was gorgeous, in afternoon a veeeeery strange black cloud appeared over Triglav, but disappeared soon. No thunder heard.

Descended via Kredarica summit and further along ridge towards Rž and then via middle of three gullies towards Staničev dom and further along Za Cmirom valley to Vrata. From Cmir onwards only short snow patch under the jump and some snow tongues, so descent except right under the jump entirely on scree.

Škrlatica with its satellites was also bathing in the morning sun.

This gully has an unpredictable exit, so I took the ice axe to the river. The snow will remain here for at least three more weeks.

This snow patch and all others except the gully are passable without an ice axe.

The Sphinx sniffs and gapes around for three days straight.

The path is covered with icy snow at two or three spots.

Typical situation on the ridge. Cornices and varying amounts of snow in places.

Ridge of Mali Triglav. Once or twice the snow sank deeply under me.

The path to Veliki Triglav is almost entirely snow-free.

But on the summit the snow doesn't want to melt.

View from the top of Kredarica towards Staničev dom and Begunjski vrh. There is still a lot of snow, but it is melting quickly.

From the ridge towards Rž I descended the middle of three gullies.

(+12)

and130. 05. 2017 11:45:36

j.excellent description of conditions, thanks.

(+1)

redbull5. 06. 2017 10:06:43

03-04-06.17
Over the weekend we moved to Velo polje. On Saturday twice to the summit from the Planika direction. The weather was fantastic, especially during the second evening ascent. It was unbelievable, further spiced up by two chamois between Mali and Veliki Triglav. Both ascents in sneakers. Winter gear is no longer needed. Next day once more with a nice group and first approachers. Snow only at the start in the first steep section to the wall and a little on the Mali Triglav ridge (can be bypassed). No gear needed anymore from this SE direction.

Good luck

palček plezalček5. 06. 2017 10:13:56

Nice camp. Just don't get that first approacher...

(+11)

redbull5. 06. 2017 10:18:36

Me neither what you meant mežikanje

palček plezalček5. 06. 2017 10:24:17

As far as I know, the first approacher is a mountaineer who first reaches a peak, or alpinist who first climbs a route on a hill/mountain. With you there was probably someone who was on Triglav for the first time.

(+18)

redbull5. 06. 2017 11:08:03

Exactly so.
Correct answer

PFranci5. 06. 2017 13:19:31

But isn't the first approacher the one who first settles it and does not first arrive at some yet unconquered peak? mežikanje

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palček plezalček5. 06. 2017 13:21:53

PFranci, that's exactly what I wrote.

(+6)

PFranci5. 06. 2017 13:37:18

That's meant for Dejan, that there was no first approacher with them.

(+6)

Maemi5. 06. 2017 13:51:34

"Don't let them get to you on the forum", once said I.Zlodej.

Please let live, climb peaks, respect nature & animals (that's all in Deyan's nature too)...not all in words, also in actions.

Thanks,
Anja

palček plezalček5. 06. 2017 15:15:45

Maemi, nobody denies anyone the right to live according to their own choice. Someone knows something and someone else knows something else. That's right and it's also right to let ourselves be taught.
Triglav is an important symbolic label of the nation, but every nation determines and enables precisely its language. So it's good to preserve it and be aware of its importance at least to the extent of the importance of preserving the nation's symbols, among which Triglav undoubtedly belongs.
I'm convinced that Dejan didn't take my question and comment as provocation, as they weren't meant that way.

(+17)

Maemi5. 06. 2017 20:57:38

You're right, palček...

Otherwise, we're under the heading "conditions in the mountains", not under "conditions of proper language".

Foreigners read us (o.p.), it's already not easy for them in the first place...

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palček plezalček5. 06. 2017 20:59:48

(+3)

zvončnica7. 06. 2017 13:01:51

oh ohhh ohhhh eek

(+1)

redbull9. 06. 2017 18:43:05

08.06.17
For my colleague's b.day, we had to make a surprise on the summit. After a few cm of snow the previous day, it was even more interesting. Temperatures dropped below zero, so the old base was frozen and hard as concrete a bit higher than Planika. We went from Krma. We didn't use crampons, as there was no need. On the descent to Kredarica, I put them on under Mali Triglav, but took them off already on the ledge. Great day, but we had to go to work.

Good luck

(+5)

bos9. 06. 2017 21:32:14

Today was a beautiful day on the top of our homeland. I didn't feel at all like we were going to Triglav, as on the path Krma - Konjsko sedlo - Planika - Mali Triglav we met only two hikers. Only on the ridge were there some people, and they were mostly foreigners. On top we enjoyed solitude or. beautiful views for half an hour.
The whole path is normally passable, over Kurica there is one snow patch on the path, which can be bypassed on the left or right side. From Planika onwards there is a bigger snowfield, but the snow was already south-facing in the morning, and the further path to the top barely touches snow worth mentioning.

Mali and Veliki Draški vrh, between them Viševnik, and Tosc

(+8)

dprapr9. 06. 2017 21:48:31

Today was a really beautiful day, after a long time a day to visit the highest. Good ascent for building (or maintaining) fitness and for tasting coffee at Kredarica.