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To Triglav?

kungočan29. 04. 2011 21:53:58

I also think that some would like to get Aljaž's tower into the museum in that way, but I think they won't succeed. They must not succeed!

slavi090229. 04. 2011 22:04:45

Igor, congratulations also from me. I wish you many more such and similar ascents........ As for damaging Aljaž's tower, it was done by people who don't care about anything or anyone, whether ours or foreigners. What matters to them is only satisfying their appetites by damaging property that is not theirs but ours.

pavaonurmi29. 04. 2011 22:58:52

Master, all honor. You really are the king. Alpin has already expressed the same opinion as mine; I just add: leave politics at the bottom, there is its place. To the mountains only positivity. Carpe diem.

IgorZlodej9. 05. 2011 18:49:41

Yesterday morning with colleagues I attended Kofler's memorial in Vrata or a bit higher under the Wall, in the afternoon I set off from Kot towards Kredarica. To the snow I needed a good hour. The thunderstorm front approaching from the east I successfully held off until I reached Stanič hut, then I took refuge in the winter shelter, outside it poured something between rain and hail. So I waited less than an hour, the wind blew away the fog and I continued to Kredarica and overnighted. This morning at -6 and with S wind over 20 m/s I headed in excellent conditions to the Summit, descended back to Kredarica, said goodbye to the friendly weathermen and skied down on just right settled snow to Režka plain or almost to Apnenica. Initially I planned to ascend to Dovška vrata, but since good conditions were promised also behind for Rž, I went up under the eastern part of Rž well above the altitude of Stanič hut and skied to Stanič hut, then looked for the nicest passages to Pekel and further to Debeleg kamen. Snow just right settled for pleasant zigzagging. From Debeleg kamen onwards it was still hard in the shade, otherwise skiing on more or less torn avalanche debris. I stayed right under the wall and thus skied down a gully just 50 m to the spring. Followed descent to Kot, which due to the path itself in the initial part is not very pleasant but has to be taken into account. Overall nice tour that will be relevant for another 14 days, of course for the most persistent.

nothing indicated that there would be a shower in 3 hours

weather change can be a real experience for a good observer, especially below Triglav

on the south side below Kredarica it was nicely sloughing

some snow passages are already quite narrow

with water it will be possible to hold on

MEHOVO11. 05. 2011 09:30:38

Igor, whoever is a true mountain soul is, and that's definitely you who knows how to share all those beautiful relived things that happen to you on your mountain wanderings nicely with us. Thank you and may LUCK never turn its back on you.

Rok Šilc14. 05. 2011 08:13:53

Hi,
do you maybe have some info on what the conditions are like on our father?

best Rok

Nix14. 05. 2011 10:09:24

I haven't been up, but from the webcam it's clear it's foggy today. Tomorrow a front will hit Slovenia, snow line dropping to 1000 m.a.s.l. So this weekend ain't promising, surely quite some new snow will fall. nasmeh

ljubitelj gora14. 05. 2011 14:00:08

, but it'll be gone quick by next weekend.

rozka21. 05. 2011 22:00:23

Well, today there was the path and the summit too velik nasmeh

...but this time in company of a connoisseur of these parts, of course Igor, so success was guaranteed mežikanje

. Start around 6.30 from Zadnjica, where morning was already coloring in dawn and blue hues, we were already trudging up the mulatier towards Dolič, which we left somewhere above Skok, turned left and straight up the long snowfield, where we emerged on Western Triglav Plateau, below Morbegno. No Lojze, so we decide to continue over Triglav Notch to Triglav summit. This time no crowds or jams mežikanje

and as weather starts worsening, after obligatory photos, we start descending. At T. notch we spot Lojze from afar hurrying with umbrella to his highest hut so we visit him, he serves us tea, but since path to valley is long we continue quickly. This time towards Dolič on winter passages that don't trouble Igor. At hut we refresh a bit, then awaits descent over Komar back to Zadnjica.
As for conditions, ideal winter ones, some remains of last precip, in entry to Triglav notch extra caution needed as it's mix of rock and snow. Weather despite forecast that partially held, held up except graupel on top and few rain drops, given dark clouds around us. But for ascent good fitness needed as winter passages are usually direct and steep...and in mountains still real winter with loooots of snow.
Another nice day in mountains with great company nasmeh

still bare path on the mulatier towards Dolič

already off the marked path above the jump

Pihavec, part of Razor and Prisojnik in the middle

view from the highest hut in our country:)))

We were diligent too, some more some less :)))

urross22. 05. 2011 00:13:14

congrats to both, nice tour and nice pics nasmeh

otiv22. 05. 2011 06:00:54

One feels rejuvenated by this and remembers one's own hiked paths.
Good luck to both and may your mountain passion last forever. nasmeh

Jany23. 05. 2011 08:28:04

I wish for many more such ascents and descriptions so that we others can relive at least a bit that crazy force that pulls a person into feats.
Safe steps!!

atomsic23. 05. 2011 16:39:32

On Sunday 22.5 my colleague and I set off from the Krma valley towards our Očak. The day before I inquired about the conditions.
Around 8 a.m. we arrived at Kredarica, where we made a short stop, refreshed ourselves and headed to Triglav. The weather was phenomenal at first, then it slowly started to cloud over and fog rose; according to the meteorologist's forecast there shouldn't have been a thunderstorm, so we set off nicely towards the summit. The snow was southern, so walking with crampons was quite unpleasant. During the ascent there was already quite some bare path, so it was also more awkward to walk with crampons. During the ascent we met 2 groups, one larger and one smaller, all foreigners whom we later learned had come up on Saturday and slept there. At the summit we had wonderful weather and a beautiful view of Austria, sadly the view of beautiful Slovenia was covered by fog and clouds.
At 11.15 a.m. we arrived back at Kredarica. For the descent to the Krma valley we took a little more time, as it didn't look like it would rain. We stopped at the shepherd's hut where there was a waterfall right there, took some photos there, drank excellent water that was flowing (hope I manage to upload the picture).
It was very nice.

IgorZlodej23. 05. 2011 20:47:52

To Rozka's Saturday description I add some pics. Oh, and we had a nice tour. And if anyone by chance found Leki pole in the first gully of the Čez Komar path please contact me via ZS, it was lost about a month and a half ago.

on the section there was a marker (junction of Luknja-Dolič paths)

we did the ascent along the gully above Skok

crampons, ice axe and helmet are mandatory part of equipment for high mountains

when we reached the sun everything was just breathtaking

ascent from Zadnjica via Skok to Morbegno is one of the most beautiful approaches to Triglav

for a few short dry sections we didn't wear crampons

during descent some graupel and styrofoam balls fell

almost a bit too little snow on the ledge

farewell to the local from under Triglav

zvončnica24. 05. 2011 07:58:58

Congratulations, nice tour you two did, many more like that, nice pictures, lp

peakson25. 05. 2011 11:34:19

Hi! Yesterday I was at the summit from Krma. Snow starts approx 30 min from the shepherd's. Somewhere it's hard, elsewhere it sinks a bit, but not hard to advance.
Started at 4:15. At 8 I headed from Kredarica to the summit. That's the latest time in my opinion - nothing wrong if went up at 6 or at least 7. As atomsic wrote, it's a mix... quite a lot bare ground in between - hour of crampon grinding guaranteed. Weather insane, if had time, could easily nap on summit for an hour. On return snow even softer, especially watch on remnants of snow patches in traverses that base doesn't disappear under foot. On way up met one mountaineer, we were probably only ones on summit yesterday. Conditions for descent to Krma still top at 11h. nasmeh

And also: on upper part of Kalvarija found two-part blue pole, atnishock. Can't see brand name, quite scratched. If someone misses it, report to ZS.

IgorZlodej30. 05. 2011 18:56:18

Wasn't in the plan, but anyway. Today I finally trim bushes and branches on Čez Komar path (if done well users of this nice path will tell), since already up there, I also jump to the summit. Snow starts soon above Komar, this time via summer path variant past hut at Dolič, without crampons and ice axe no way, further still all under snow except first part to Bovška škrbina, where on ascent it was still nicely frozen, over the slab more or less bare, so walked without crampons. Returned same path except bypass around Šmarjetna glava, descent also via Čez Komar. Weather excellent, snow conditions couldn't be better.

when I put down the saw, I stepped on snow

in the gully below Dolič there is still a lot of snow

below Očak there is still a lot of snow, I hope it holds for a long time

mirank31. 05. 2011 16:55:41

Oh thanks a lot, surely now better than it was on Sunday around 8h when I struggled through there. Conditions on the path were as described in the previous report. I went only to the west wall of Triglav and turned back there. On return via Morbegno I see the local is not home. I would add only that on the mulattiera there are about 5 larches of approximately the same thickness (cca 120mm) as the one Igor sawed on the Čez Komar path a week ago.

BGODAR8. 06. 2011 09:25:55

Hi, I'm interested what the path to Triglav is like or if there is still lots of snow. I would also ask for better orientation if someone has new pics let them upload them.

IgorZlodej8. 06. 2011 19:04:53

And what's the snow problem? zavijanje z očmi

Given the rainy weather expecting newer pics at this time is illusory, nor would they tell anything really essential. In high mountains, especially above 2000 m there is still lots of snow and for safe ascent proper equipment is needed.