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Viš/Jof Fuart

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gandalf10. 08. 2015 22:01:55
I have to admit that Vis has tempted me for a long time and when I got an offer from a colleague, I didn't think twice. The offer was to go to Viš via pathless terrain past positions from WWI as described in PV May issue. Early Sunday morning promised a nice day. From Jezerska Valley to Viška Planina the road passed in pleasant chat and suddenly Rif. Corsi was in front of us and behind it the mighty walls of Vis and its neighbors. From the hut we head towards Škrbina Zadnje špranje and approach from afar the well-visible Mojzes. At Mojzes we turn right and via some cables reach the grass under two prominent towers in Vis summit part. Here we leave the marked path and continue kinda in the middle of the slope towards both towers. On our left or ahead behind the edge we spot the tower where we see a cavern or military position from 1st WW called Pagoda. From Pagoda right up goes a wide gully with good rock and two II degree spots. Description recommends left, but also other ways. Now we reach the spot in PV description where I'd slightly correct the author, or maybe we just see differently. Why go to the top of the notch to see the window on north, when access to notch is so scree-covered and there NE ledge of Vis doesn't stand out but nothing there except very tough descent on approach path dozens meters back to right shelf. From above down you see three shelves all looking good and right. Easiest is pick middle shelf and from it downclimb good rock few meters up to higher shelf avoiding "passo del gatto" which is really narrow and scree. Soon after that passage start ascending right up, cuz if continue on shelf you hit precipice wall of one previous towers. Continuation very nice good rock and great views. When step on ridge keep right to narrow gully full of debris with visible beams and wood from upper positions. Climb beside gully on II degree and exit on ridge right at "grajska stražarnica" military position, highest WW1 war post. Then just right on ridge til you spot Marija.nasmeh
Viš and neighbors1
views2
summit towers3
direction of descent4
Mojzes or. the last notch5
young snow along the path6
panorama from the last notch7
to the right along the path from Škrbina following markers and secured path section8
in the direction of the towers and Pagoda9
in the direction of Pagoda10
position of Pagoda11
Gully to the right of Pagoda by which we ascend12
Oversight of events in the gully13
Above notch, on the other side window, difficult descent, right ledges and passo del gatto14
in direction of ridge above towers from image no. 315
beginning of ridge, then right to gully16
last II. by the gully below the position17
Slovenian mountains with Rombon right, Svinjak to Bavarian Grintovec, before them Loska stena18
position castle guardhouse19
team20
overseer from the vineyard came to congratulate on the accomplishment21
direction off trail22
(+4)like
ZoranV30. 08. 2015 19:49:40
Forecast for Saturday was hot but promised nice views. My benchmark for nice views became Snežnik. And that I'd see it so clearly from Viš I didn't think. Ascent via path past Viška Glavica to Corsi and from there through preduh to summit. More I'll add under photos...
Not a picture of the waterfall, but I'm photographing her and the waterfall :)1
Suddenly a beautiful view opens onto the Kanin side, Hudi vršič and company.2
For the first time we see koča Corsi and Viš, on the left Koštrunove špice3
The shade was over, from here on it went in the sun.4
Beautiful landscape above koča Corsi.5
Krniška škrbina, my last via ferrata tour of the previous season.6
Lone hiker on Krniška škrbina.7
The lad was hopping over the rocks.8
Through the preduh, below koča Corsi and Viška planina are visible9
To Viš leads a real thorny path. So many thorny plants as I have seen here I probably haven't seen in my whole life :)10
With the altitude more and more peaks of the Julijci appear.11
Zoomed from Koštrunove špice.12
Home sweet home - i.e. to me the most homely Snežnik. Peski in the foreground.13
Višarji are somewhere far below.14
To the hut15
Finally on the summit and an exceptional view to Montaž appears. On its left in the background Pelmo and Civetta recognizable where I wandered a month ago.16
Everyone values a good view.17
At the top.18
Marija and Montaž.19
Phenomenal view ...20
Alps as seen by Marija21
Little beauty with amber eyes.22
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Path back ...24
On Viška planina we wave one last time to Viš, Marija and the cows.25
Today instead of Višinci plus, Višinci in minus :)26
(+4)like
bagi24. 09. 2015 15:33:21
*Gola Nord/Est* or our northeast couloir... that gloomy narrow WW1 military passage is now surely one of the nicest approaches to Viš nasmeh. But no mistake, it's not just a walk. When starting from Zajzera this approach is more demanding and tiring than to Triglav. This time I just managed to outrun the September snow shipment. Hard to believe the new white carpet will last long, so description of conditions might be useful to someone this year too.

Path to Pellarini renovated and additionally secured. Water plenty till there. Signs for N/E route entry unmistakable if a bit attentive. But right before entry obstacle named snowfield zmeden. In current conditions better call it icefield. In the gully where path goes extremely hard to cross without proper gear. Can try, maybe turn midway but either way tough without rope down chopped surface eek. Fairly safe crossing lower, few meters above snowfield end, then left on rocks to route entry.

Further no major issues. Some torn cables mostly replaced by ropes except passage to Božje police. With some caution not particularly dangerous. Passages through hole and over infamous slimy rock tamed for some years but still not easy. Especially slimy rock was subject of constant *bitching and moaning* velik nasmeh.

Marks higher up successfully hide from eyes so route not everywhere obvious. Follow carved steps in rocks and easier right away. At Viš summit nothing new. All as always including all add-ons obvious to Italians zavijanje z očmi.

For return chose Anita Goitan, passage over Trbiška škrbina then over Žabniška back to Zajzera. Goitanka without issues, descent to Trbiška krnica for years much lower than older abandoned passage at chapel named Giorgio Cavalieri. Far visible *NO* passage ban obviously not enough so maintainers removed path sign too.

Newer path no problem till point where it breaks to Trbiška side. There nature very intensively does its thing mrk pogled. Every wrong step causes some cubic of scree to join you downhill. Great maintainers fixed good 50 m ropes on edge rocks for descent aid and they come in handy nasmeh. If route lost in scree, visible on opposite bare side below Lastovicami. Mainly keep left side of scree slope.

Continuation over Žabniška škrbina then to Zajzera no issues. Just road walking not too exciting and I won't praise it nasmeh.





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(+17)like
JusAvgustin24. 09. 2015 15:59:27
You are the king of ZPPs!mežikanje
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redbull24. 09. 2015 16:06:58
Congratulations, unique tour

Good luck
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bagi24. 09. 2015 19:40:27
Thanks for the congrats, it was really fun all together nasmeh
(+5)like
dprapr25. 09. 2015 07:58:17
One of the better tours in this massif. It made a bigger impression on me than Via Amalia on Montaz. The descent on this path drags on though. Son said back then, an elementary kid, that next time he'd rather bike than such a tour.nasmeh
(+2)like
IgorZlodej2. 12. 2015 19:59:44
To Viška planina by road, then from cable car to hut on "direct", continuation to Škrbina Zadnje Špranje, no one ahead, not much snow, higher above Škrbina even less. Continuous snow cover only from junction with path going up through Preduh. Snow south-facing on sun, dry in shade.

Descended on "direct" through Preduh, above Corsi hut under Beljaški stolp and under Kapna stena to Viška planina and road to valley.
from the direct.1
Corsi hut empty.2
towards Mojzes3
above Škrbina quite bare4
Koštrunove5
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on the descent7
preduh8
snapshot9
below Beljaški10
(+15)like
redbull28. 12. 2015 07:02:30
SV Deber/Gola NE to Viš. Conditions much more normal than expected. Descended towards Mojzesova škrbina and continued to Koštrunove špice. From there to Prednja Špranja with nasty descent on it to bivak Mazzeni. Saisera not far anymore, just had to get over waterfalls. On flat at that planina nicely sugar-crusted spruces awaited me at least to half.

Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2015/12/sv-deber-visa-kostrunove-spice-261215.html

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CRwQn2mcJQ

Good luck

D
Bare NO1
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View towards Montasio from Koštrunove špice5
Forc. Del Orso6
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(+7)like
Ninđa29. 12. 2015 12:32:47
On Sunday (27.12.2015) Bojan Ambrožič and I visited Viš. Up the usual path, down the Anita Goitan path.

Report from Bojan:

http://bojanambrozic.com/

Video follows.

Regards, Nino
(+4)like
mukica30. 12. 2015 07:38:45
We two also headed out on Monday to the Viš I've wanted for so long, which has been on my wishlist for a while. We parked by the road to and turned into the forest, where we walked with headlamps on dry leaves and climbed towards Corsi hut. Soon we turned off the lights and started admiring the sunlit peaks above the hut, after an hour of walking we spotted Viška planina and other beauties... after over two hours we reached Corsi hut.
In front of the hut we had a little snack and then past Mojzesova škrbina to the summit where we treated ourselves to a looong rest, enjoying heavenly views, summer weather and no wind.. as if it were summer... We returned via the Cave del Mole path to the hut, where we again took a break in the sunshine and then towards Viška planina, so Damjana could see this part too.. boring path from the pasture to the starting point... Both enjoyed it and we'll surely returnnasmeh
when you come out of the forest the sun and beautiful views greet you1
Koč a Corsi is already waiting for visitors... closed but enjoying in front of it is still nice2
When you don't know what you're looking at, which peaks you're admiring and choosing new goals3
Here we take time for a snack and enjoying the views4
past Mojzesova škrbina towards the summit5
Mojzes with the guard on the right side6
we were supervised and warned that we are here only on a visit...7
protections in excellent condition8
heavenly views9
everywhere beauties of the mountain world10
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towards the summit, far below is the hut12
finally I can take a photo with her13
at the top enjoyment and admiration... and well-deserved snack14
on the northern side there is much more snow15
slowly it's time to go to the valley, we decide to take another path Ceve del Mole...to get stuck16
past the little window17
got stuck... then part of the path to the hut and towards Viška planina18
At Viška planina19
view from the valley to the sunlit afternoon hillscape20
(+7)like
redbull30. 12. 2015 10:37:27
It's great up there.
Congratulations to both.
Good luck
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redbull30. 12. 2015 10:37:53
It's great up there.
Congratulations to both.
Good luck
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Ninđa30. 12. 2015 21:50:47
Also a video clip nasmeh

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaoPdvIobs0

Best, Nino
(+1)like
pikpok20. 03. 2016 10:27:16
Yesterday I tried with a friend to Viš via normale. The snow cover holds human weight only for the first 200 m of ascent and from Rifugio Corsi onwards; elsewhere – also for descent in warmer hours – crampons or skis are recommended (the path was nicely packed yesterday though). When the snow is still frozen in the morning, a second ice axe is very useful too. We had to end the route at the window, which is full of snow anyway. We spent almost an hour circling, trying to find an alternative, but the ice on the left was unstable. We could have tried to climb the rock blocking the window (pics 1 and 2), but we left it in the car, thinking we wouldn't need it (that stupidity probably cost us the summit), and so couldn't belay on the fixed rope there on the right wall; without it we didn't dare, since a slip would mean about 50 m of sliding on very steep snow. Behind us, at least 3 ski tourers tried for an hour to dig snow from the window with a shovel (didn't succeed) and then climb it (the first one made it but had to return because of the other two). A bit below the mentioned point also quite a big crevasse in the snow (pic 3), so we (also considering not always a melting day) decided to return to the valley. We started hiking at 4 a.m., which by my estimate is too late by at least two hours for the tour in these conditions. At the car also this time a surprise zavijanje z očmi
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(+12)like
panda20. 03. 2016 11:07:42
What broke down?eek
(+1)like
redbull20. 03. 2016 12:07:53
and on top of that thisnasmeh
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pikpok20. 03. 2016 20:25:32
Broke down, broke down..... Didn't show up anymorenasmeh
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viharnik20. 03. 2016 23:01:51
The official Porsche mechanic said that if you have a Renault, you bought only half a car, with Peugeot it's a similar story. For my VW I don't even know that I have it, but it's been a whole 16 yearsvelik nasmeh
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redbull21. 03. 2016 01:43:59
nasmeh
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