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Vrtača

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Todi26. 12. 2019 19:08:44
@Lukito, nice tour congratulations, judging by the pictures you didn't go into Y, but turned up a bit earlier where it gets vertical towards the top. And you reach the top of the ridge of Mala glava, then along the ridge to Vrtača. Y is at the end where mostly the left side is used, if well filled then also the right side, where you come directly to the ice axe of Vrtača.
That's my view, from your pictures.
Anyway once again, Congratulations
(+3)like
Lukito26. 12. 2019 19:21:57
@Todi I looked once more and yeah it holds as per you. Thanks!


According to this sketch:

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=15688

Given this and what I now recall most of us climbed Levi grapa, Y left branch reaches the saddle.
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Todi26. 12. 2019 19:48:19
wink
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Todi29. 12. 2019 15:20:43
Windy Vrtača 2181m asl, 29/12/2019, since it was well iced, I took the right branch of the Y up for top summit conditions, down the left branch. At the top met three more who went up the south gully. Sunny weather, just too windy.
Happy 2020 everyone
Tinky and Barbara1
Morning2
VV3
Zelenica4
5
snapshot6
some of them are ahead of me, but turned back7
windy8
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today to the right12
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approach14
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Summit16
Vrtača 2181m a.s.l.17
snapshot18
opast towards gully Y19
Y20
jump snow-covered21
a bit icy22
23
back to the valley24
View back25
26
and also from Zelenica27
(+13)like
erce29. 12. 2019 18:57:31
Has anyone found the Black Diamond Torque right glove below the entrance to the Y gully?
best regards
(+1)like
Nejc78729. 12. 2019 20:10:01
Bravo Todi! And super pics. Good luck!
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Todi30. 12. 2019 05:10:52
@erce, yesterday it blew so hard that the glove is somewhere on Begunjščica, joke smile
@Nejc787, thanks
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cason30. 12. 2019 19:01:22
Today's sunrise on Vrtača. Up Y, down south. Super day.

Also CONDITIONS AND PHOTOS

Best regards,

Freak.si
(+5)like
lijaneja31. 12. 2019 09:44:26
Sometimes I miss the sunrise still in bed,big well, yesterday I set off with a colleague at seven from home. In winter I prefer to walk in the sun and no wind, which my forecaster 'YR' predicted.
There was plenty of sun indeed, the wind though, when it should have started to calm down, became strong in Suh ruševje, especially to the ipsilonka entrance very strong and luckily not too cold. In the gully there was no more nuisance, and it was calm all day.
Some hikers turned back below, six of us headed to the top. Views divine, snow on top, as it overhangs to the south side completely icy, so a young guy slipped, piled snow stopped him just before the drop. Still he sustained some injuries, helicopter took him.
We descended to the southern gully and back towards Zelenica. The hut is cheerful and preparing for today's New Year's Eve. With colleague slowly to the car at Ljubelj.

My well-meant warning.
Holidays, nice weather, snowy mountains are tempting, can turn into an accident instantly. New gear, youth, theory not enough. Need to know how to use gear, be aware of current dangers and have enough mileage in easier, less demanding and dangerous slopes.
To all mountain goers, especially forum participants, I wish healthy, above all happy new year 2020.
Tone
Vrtača ridge towards the east...1
...and towards the west.2
Left: Mali Stol with Prešernova koča. Right: Stol, directly behind it Triglav.3
Dolkova špica, Škrlatica, VR, Oltar and VMP.4
Ovčji vrh 20245
Just above the exit from the Y-lonka.6
Očak, with Stol in front of it.7
Palec 20268
Second highest in the Karavanks9
Joy on the summit. Unfortunately not for everyone.10
Work of the wind.11
Zelenjak 2024...12
...and Palec.13
And both together from the predvrh of Vrtača14
Košuta, KSA to the right.15
Eastern, highest part of Košuta16
Descent to the sunny, southern side.17
View towards the summit18
Middle peak 179619
Begunjščica20
Its summit21
Grinta and Kočna22
View back23
In the sky first NLP-ji...24
...then also a helicopter.25
Descent of the rescuer,...26
...in less than five minutes already hoisting the casualty.27
He took him away...28
...to the Jesenice hospital.29
Veliki vrh and Na Možeh30
KSA31
Košutica 1968 and Veliki vrh 2088.32
(+19)like
gps3. 01. 2020 14:17:19
Today Vrtača via Y-couloir, some turned left, some the right branch. Very nice. Wind today practically none, pleasant temps and wonderful view.

Successfully lost sunglasses somewhere on the upper parking behind Kompas Shop. Nice black sunglasses with diving flag on the side.

Will be happy if someone found them and would even return them.
Otherwise may they serve the lucky finder well.
1
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3
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reduktor4. 01. 2020 15:51:46
Conditions for Vrtača still super, both in Y and southern gully, nicely filled and good steps kicked in. It was great.

Short video from the trip: here
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Trobec4. 01. 2020 20:30:24
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9
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Bojan_A4. 01. 2020 22:44:27
1
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Sebastijan202010. 01. 2020 07:49:32
Nice greetings!

What are the conditions on Vrtača these days?

Caution and winter gear enough? smile

Thanks.
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lijaneja10. 01. 2020 08:28:53
I think you've nailed it. Conditions in the mountains have been practically unchanged for two weeks already.
(+7)like
Michel12. 01. 2020 18:39:56
Hello,

with mates we planned to climb Y gully from Vrtača, when already walking towards it, we decide due to lack of snow to rather "climb" along the ridge from Begunjščica. Before starting to climb, I see ice axe missing from backpack. If anyone finds it please notify me 030 458 300.

Good luck,
Michel
1
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parenzo17. 01. 2020 08:49:08
On Wednesday to Vrtača via Right Gully (Right Y), descended via Central Gully.
Current conditions in Right fantastic. Central iced over, with high "candlesticks", just right for downclimbing.
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horvie12. 02. 2020 07:34:51
Hi.
By chance does anyone know how it currently is in Vrtača - mainly Y and Southern Gully?
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parenzo12. 02. 2020 08:24:34
@horvie, 23.01.2020 conditions were: Central iced with candlesticks, Right fantastic – nicely trodden, in Southern deep candlesticks and churned from last wind-blown snow - underneath iced.

Entry to Central from left side of scree and after few m you're on ice, so great caution needed, especially well-sharpened ice axe picks. From fork to Right to summit (directly to summit box) mostly crusty snow.
Right gully good substitute for Lenuhova, which is currently "dry".
Right one, well-trodden1
Right2
From the gully: on the left Desna, bottom right Centralna3
Still around and to the top4
(+4)like
michael6613. 02. 2020 16:03:02
Today up and down southern gully. Conditions ok, not icy. Met one mountaineer who came via y and said that y also without issues. Below summit and on summit blowing like hell.
(+2)like
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