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Vrtača

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pikec110. 03. 2011 20:50:27
Hi
I'm wondering if this ,,gully,, already has a name? and if anyone has gone up here? difficulty?

Thanks for info.
Grega
1
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JusAvgustin10. 03. 2011 21:33:31
This is the southern gully and it's also skied; ascent not recommended, because it has J exposure. I recommend the eastern chute, conditions in it are excellent... http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=11&id=782&stran=3

Cheers! Juš
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rozka21. 04. 2011 18:18:36
Today I finished the "trio" around Zelenicavelik nasmeh. Start at Ljubelj, past the hut at Zelenica, to the top of Vrtača. As for conditions, it's dry, where there are still snow patches (on upper ridge) they are no obstacle or can be avoided.
Day was again a real fairy tale, warm, no wind at top and today ravens were resting, none there!!!nasmeh
morning, view towards the Košuta ridge1
Vrtača and Stol in the background2
path to Begunjščica from Zelenica still partly in snow3
I like such traverses the most :)))4
Vrtača ridge5
the summit is already visible6
view back7
from the summit8
gully9
and the big slab that is just waiting to ......10
Stol and Julian Alps11
Vrtača ridge12
instead of snow there were rockfalls here today13
Košuta ridge and behind shines the roof14
view upwards where the summit is visible15
Zelenica16
spring17
here well-deserved lounging:)))18
on the return someone was climbing the central route to Begunjščica19
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JusAvgustin21. 04. 2011 18:23:17
Y is for skiing... bravo rozka, see that you still don't have to be at grandma's!mežikanje
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ljubitelj gora21. 04. 2011 19:12:37
I turned back on Vrtača ridge last year, this year going up again but later, summit has to be conquered sometime, for me everything is first time.
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KristinaG21. 04. 2011 19:48:32
I too had to turn back last weekend. Went over Suho ruševje and planned Y. But it was blowing so piggishly that I turned back a bit further from Žleb raje. jezen
But was up there the weekend before - on summer path or my variant of summer path - and it's OK already, just snow on upper ridge.
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rozka21. 04. 2011 20:31:24
Ooo, I too turned back years ago before entering Y, it was really blowing Siberian cold...then did a repeat a week later in sunny weathernasmeh
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KristinaG21. 04. 2011 20:54:38
For me the weekend before last didn't work because too much thaw (at Ljubelj at 5am 12°C), wind only to Zelenica. Then attacked the summit via summer path.

Last weekend temp OK, almost no wind to Zelenica. Over Suho ruševje as you say - Siberia. And I got the feeling this Y somehow doesn't like me. zmeden

So I have enough of this Vrtača for a while... velik nasmeh

But noticed in several "posts" that this wind has screwed more people already...
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JusAvgustin21. 04. 2011 21:17:10
there is also variant ascent to vrtača over little head. it's pathless anyway. description available in lesser known paths of Slovenian mountains... we with matej descended this way in winter. nice ridge climbing...
briefly: in suho ruševje before first gullies eating into S wall of vrtača, turn left up, find poorly trodden path and approach over crumbly head to forepeak of vrtača... From little head to summit rock is crumbly and extremely brittle, climbing doesn't exceed 2... If it does you're on good way to get stuck! Ascent takes good hour (in dry conditions), in winter much faster...

Regards; Juš
descent1
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rozka21. 04. 2011 21:24:29
Hey Juš... well, that repetition in sunny weather was then along the ridge, namely right at the start of Suhega ruševja to the left and then a bit up, a bit down along the ridge to the top of Vrtača and then descent via the gully... conditions were super then, winter of course, but my friend after that trip doesn't go to the mountains with me anymorevelik nasmehmežikanje
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Boštjan MK21. 04. 2011 21:54:06
Rozka, how are the conditions on Palec and Zelenjak?
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heinz21. 04. 2011 22:04:34
They looked like this yesterday from Begunjščica - quite dry (apparently).
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ljubitelj gora21. 04. 2011 22:33:10
Incredible, 21.4 conditions like 21.5 last year.
When I went to Vrtača I also crossed some snow patches, just below the ridge the snowfield was bulging and dangerous but I crossed it anyway, turned back because of the shower on the Austrian side.

@rozka: Nice pictures.
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Zalas21. 04. 2011 23:09:15
Yeah yeah this year everything a month early! But afraid winter might wag its tail once more! Don't forget ice saints!
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Boštjan MK22. 04. 2011 05:21:24
Great, thanks Heinz!
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lijaneja24. 04. 2011 18:05:19
Palec and Zelenjak climbable without snow issues. Snow tongues cover just three small gullies on Palec lengths two, five, ten meters, but crossed them no problem. That's how both two-thousanders looked yesterday from Vrtača summit.
1
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tomko27. 04. 2011 16:02:38
On Monday via the marked path to Vrtača. Weather not the best but path in good condition. Below the summit still quite some snow. On the way back before Zelenica it sprinkled a bit. Question: can one get from Vrtača to Zelenjak and then to Palec??
my today's goal1
Ice axe visible but need to go around some more2
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lijaneja27. 04. 2011 17:21:21
Via Y. One post before yours tells all.
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lijaneja27. 04. 2011 17:25:09
Here pic of that gully from Palec same day (23. 4. 11)
Vrtača from Palec. Y-ka still nicely snow filled1
And even closer.2
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kema27. 04. 2011 17:58:57
JusAvgustin
Not south gully...too close to ridge
A bit over the head.
South gully much more to the left (if looking at pic from pikec1)...
Don't mislead!!!
Rgds.Klemen
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