| Lucid_Irrationality29. 12. 2013 16:05:04 |
Hi everyone!
First, apologies for my "Slovenian"; I'm reporting from Varaždin and Slovenian isn't my strong suit (but I try).
So you know right away who it is - I'm the one without helmet  Why? As a true cavalier, I gave my helmet to the girl (who unfortunately didn't have one).
Now, since you all lined up as know-it-alls, nicely explained everything to us, shat on us "with gloves" as much as possible, let someone who actually trampled snow yesterday speak up.
First, Jedrilicar: your last post says much more about you than about us. I didn't come to present myself as the man who swallowed all the world's wisdom and circled all the world's peaks, but you talk nonsense and please keep it to yourself. First, it's not true, second, you come off as stupid. The "guy" who led the team to Y has led so far extremely demanding trips, which you can nicely see on his Picasa profile. Besides, we were on Y when conditions were tougher, and we knew very well what we were doing and who we were taking with us. In the end, experience is gained when you throw yourself a bit out of the comfort zone, right? 
As for conditions: the bulletin noted avalanche danger 4, when we got there it was already 3. Before departure we contacted the hutkeeper, who told us how much new snow had fallen and what kind. He also said that avalanches had already slid, and given the temperature that night and during the day, it was unlikely there would be new ones, at least on the north side. Well, since we had already driven about 250 km, it didn't hurt to assess it ourselves, right?
It was obvious that the snow was powdery and light, the wind lifted it like dust, so there was no real danger, except near the top where wind slabs formed from the south over the north side, so you need to pass under them quickly (and quietly, not barking, which is obviously some people's strong suit).
As for Y, the left branch is as filled as the right (in the pictures), but near the top on the exit you'd have to tool through frozen rock full of holds, so, considering the rest of the team that was with us, we skipped that and took the right exit to the ridge, where there's only snow. Snow sinks in places up to the waist, but it holds well.
Unfortunately, there was no view because the ridge was battered by extremely strong wind carrying clouds.
Anyway, I have no desire to argue about this or that. We've climbed all routes with shaky spits (about anchors, no need to talk), soloed stupidities, climbed wet rocks, and even gone to the hills when avalanche danger was 3. That's the sport we do, whether we like it or not. It's risky, it can be terrible or it can be beautiful when all risks are reduced to the most rational minimum. Now, for some it's staying in the hall and for some it's breaking through a fallen avalanche. Whatever, I don't call you stupid, so don't call me that either. You weren't there, you didn't see the conditions, but we WERE and KNOW what we saw, and in the end we passed everything that needed to be passed.
Otherwise, the whole team follows this forum because it's extremely useful and up-to-date; we'll continue to follow (if I don't log in again and comment), best mountaineering greetings to all and lots of luck further!
Pero
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