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| kosenjak152221. 12. 2016 08:10:08 |
Hello. I'm wondering if the conditions on the Roof have changed at all this week since the last post? Regards
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| andrej7821. 12. 2016 08:12:05 |
A colleague was up yesterday and says the summit part of the roof, meaning the last 200m of ascent, is very icy, winter gear mandatory.
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| kosenjak152221. 12. 2016 08:17:06 |
Many thanks. Of course, without winter gear you shouldn't go to the mountains at all now. Regards
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| cvalenti21. 12. 2016 09:07:24 |
kosenjak1522, as colleague (andrej78) already said, last 200m "essential" crampons, the roof is icy! Up to there no trace of ice or snow. And of course, as you wrote yourself "without winter gear you shouldn't go to the mountains at all now"
Safe steps, regards TC
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| kosenjak152221. 12. 2016 11:48:17 |
Many thanks and all the best.
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| srfar25. 12. 2016 18:35:55 |
skymark do you think small crampons are enough for safe passage on those last 200 meters???
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| BT8825. 12. 2016 18:57:40 |
Take the Japanese ones. Or srf
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| A.D.K.25. 12. 2016 19:21:56 |
Again the same nonsense. The guy asked nicely and why can't he get a nice answer.
How much snow is actually on the summit I don't know but if it's really just 200m then in my opinion with caution small crampons like "Lesce chain" are enough... you can always turn back below the summit.
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| SamoK25. 12. 2016 19:28:41 |
Anyone who in winter time asks what equipment they need in the high mountains has no business being in the high mountains in winter. (At least not alone.)
That's the reason for sarcastic and other "useless" responses.
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| BT8825. 12. 2016 19:33:05 |
What kind of question, that kind of answer. Stupid. Everyone who has stepped on snow this year knows that it is very hard even though there is very little of it. I can tell that on shady slopes 12 teeth go right over the surface like walking on concrete. And you about Lesce chains. above 2500 meters in January
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| dprapr25. 12. 2016 19:43:13 |
No wonder there are such questions, if some who do good winter ascents also recommend crampons sometimes.
There are even combinations of sports shoes and crampons!
How is someone who reads such advice and has no experience in winter high mountains supposed to decide?
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| SamoK25. 12. 2016 19:45:47 |
dprapr, I disagree.
If someone masters it, they will use the equipment that suits them. You can't claim that everyone must use the same equipment.
The problem is if someone asks what to use. You can't seriously advise such a person, because it's obvious they don't know what they're getting into and will sooner or later do something stupid. With a serious answer you're partly responsible.
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| dprapr25. 12. 2016 19:52:53 |
"If someone masters it, they will use the equipment that suits them"
I agree SamoK, but you can't post that because it's not suitable for everyone. How is someone without experience supposed to know it's not suitable for them? If someone does it and posts it, while discouraging others at the same time, it only motivates them more to do the same.
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| alfonz12325. 12. 2016 19:54:57 |
Some just don't get it, despite all recommendations, warnings and various explanations from everywhere (GRS, PZS, numerous media) due to numerous accidents in the mountains in recent weeks, that for high mountains "ala" Lesce chain crampons are in no way suitable but real crampons. In winter ice axe and crampons are mandatory equipment and always in the backpack, period, not constantly asking if they are needed or not. You take them, if you need them you have them with you, if not you just don't use them.
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| SamoK25. 12. 2016 19:55:53 |
Yes, you're right, dprapr.
For winter it would really be safer to talk as little as possible about equipment, and only about objective conditions.
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| alfonz12325. 12. 2016 20:09:03 |
dprapr
nicely written " How is someone without experience supposed to know it's not suitable for them?"
So someone who doesn't have proper experience shouldn't even go on such winter tours, but should first go to some lower hill and gain experience there first. Because you also need to know how to use the equipment, it's not enough just to have it! Because for many such super duper equipment boosts confidence, they go on a serious tour, but with the use of that equipment complete ignorance.
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| BT8825. 12. 2016 20:10:49 |
We need to talk even more not lessbut smart things and not nonsense about Lesce crampons which my neighbor needs occasionally for the store. Alfonz said it nicely. We know what belongs in winter equipment or what to take in these conditions to the mountains. If someone doesn't know let them ask.
Given the winter with little precipitation the conditions in our mountains are very difficult and serious.
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| skymark25. 12. 2016 21:55:20 |
From first hand I tell you, real crampons are needed.
Especially for descent!
I don't know what you're even discussing, everyone knows what equipment is needed to visit mountains in December.
Regardless of weather conditions!!
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