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Jalovec

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janezs7313. 05. 2019 12:18:24
hello,

regarding the pics of Jalovec ridge, check under Jalovec this link, pics 54 to 57. The ridge is "sharp" for someone not used to open views down, for someone else to whom it's almost daily, no problem. The ridge is still almost pristine and belongs to mountaineering romance, like most of our "secured" paths, on which there are no cables from start to end, on which you'd clip your self-belay kit.

At Jalovec, like all serious high Slovenian peaks, crumbly rock is the most serious hazard, then weather variability. Overall, you're always the biggest danger to yourself in the mountains.

Maybe it would help if you go there with someone who can psychologically assist you primarily in such moments.

Safe steps!

(+5)like
redbull13. 05. 2019 13:01:21
No difficulties on the ridge, so no cable either

good luck
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redbull13. 05. 2019 13:01:22
No difficulties on the ridge, so no cable either

good luck
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barbarela13. 05. 2019 13:23:03
Nice, nice, thanks for the pics, comforting words and tips. I am very grateful to all who responded to my plea. And somehow lighter at heart because I imagined that ridge worse than you presented it to me.
Still not fully rid of the fear I carried for so many years, but I'm sure I'll beat it.
Thanks again!
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redbull13. 05. 2019 13:43:55
Who scared you so muchmežikanje
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barbarela13. 05. 2019 14:15:55
Words of some people who described the tour to Jalovec to me as one of the hardest in our mountains.mrk pogled
(+1)like
miri13. 05. 2019 14:32:00
Underestimating mountains has already backfired for some.
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redbull13. 05. 2019 14:39:17
Yes it ranks among the hardest, but what you hiked/climbed also ranks among the hardest or I'd say even a bit harder
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ejti13. 05. 2019 16:02:06
Since a new approach to the summit on Razor was routed, the difficulty has greatly increased and in my opinion is greater than anything on Jalovec. Jalovec is demanding, not overly difficult.
But the mini ferrata on Razor is very short.
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janezs7313. 05. 2019 16:24:54
Dejan, try to empathize with people who don't have as much experience, courage and mileage as you. Jalovec is no easy mountain in any conditions. For most people going there, it ranks among the harder ones. Especially due to the variety of objective dangers. If you dash it in 2h, it doesn't mean it's easy for most people. I agree excessive fear burdens people and is more harmful than not. But too little fear (respect?) also leads to trouble.
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jax13. 05. 2019 17:14:17
Jalovec from Špička is in my opinion easier than both Razor (on the new route) and Škrlatica, maybe a bit harder than Triglav. If I rate it in the context of SPP, then on Kočna there's even a spot that's harder than anything you encounter on Jalovec. The other two routes (Kotovo sedlo, Škrbina) are considerably harder. It's quite crumbly, but that's expected in our mountains anyway. As for that ridge, from my first ascent of Jalovec (I think about 15 years ago) it stuck in my memory as pretty psychotic, but when I went up again two years ago, I just shrugged. In short, nothing special. Yes, it's exposed, but in the context of terrain you encounter in mountains anyway.
Otherwise, the main question here is whether we'll even go to the mountains this summer. As it looks now, I've started wondering if there'll even be a summer.
(+7)like
darinka413. 05. 2019 17:29:43
But exactly if you go from Špička towards the summit, snow usually stays long below the entry into the wall. Last year I remember July 2nd, I needed winter gear there, otherwise I would've turned back. Further to the summit it was snow-free.
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jax13. 05. 2019 20:11:31
Of course snow stays, I wasn't talking about that. Jalovec is a classic late season tour and July 2nd is almost always too early. But I don't fully agree that the worst is on the route from Špička. Jalovška škrbina has an even more problematic spot below the entry into the wall. Maybe from that point of view the least problematic is the route over Kotovo sedlo, where there are also some steep gullies where snow stays. In short, wait till mid-August, then it'll be ;-)
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hribov.ec14. 05. 2019 11:45:07
Barbarela, hello! Normally I don't "post" on the forum, but something encouraged me to do so. About Jalovec and the route, ascent to it, others have more or less written everything, so I have nothing special to add. The reason is that I myself was last year in a very similar, almost identical situation. In my SPP booklet, I was missing three stamps, Prisojnik, Razor and Jalovec. Somehow I kept postponing them. There was also quite some awe, especially for Jalovec. For similar reasons. Let me add that in recent years I go alone on more demanding routes, prepare in various ways and go. Last year, I started with Prisojnik via the ridge route. It went well. Next Jalovec. Although I had respect, it went very well for me. It helped a lot that a few days before the hut warden under Špička had newly marked the entire route. I can say that without it I would've had quite some trouble finding the "route"! Of course, the path is airy in places, concentration must be complete. No other serious problems though. The views though....! By the way - the hut wardens at the hut, Klavdija and Vasja, are fantastic! They can be an example to all. As others have said, with what you've already... there are no serious problems. Nice weather, concentration, calm, that's it. What is easier or harder for someone is of course different opinions. Also a matter of current mood. For comparison, next was Razor from Kriški podi. That new secured part at the end - it's short, slightly overhanging in one part. Maybe for those who have trouble stretching a bit more at a few spots it's somewhat more demanding on descent. But I (at my age) had no problems.
I also suggest you head to the summit from the hut in the morning, fresh. I wish you lots of mountaineering pleasures! And safe path! Ivan
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barbarela14. 05. 2019 12:28:41
Thanks Ivan!
I'm very grateful for your encouraging words. Very grateful!

I'd like to thank once again all who understood my writing and responded to it. Mountain lovers are (you are) apparently really something special! Always understanding and always ready to help. Thanks!

In August this year I hope to make a historic step for me. I'll step on the summit of our King!
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Domch14. 05. 2019 13:24:56
Ascent from all sides to it is very demanding, but descent is even more demanding, especially down from the ridge, where it's also airymežikanje there's so much scree on the ground that you just see how you'll slide into the gully between Jalovec and Veliki Ozebník. This is definitely the most demanding spot on the whole route from this side. In short up is hard back even harder - which befits the king.
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dprapr14. 05. 2019 14:01:16
Good that it's not "science fiction" like that descent over Korošica.nasmeh
And you just reassured her and she's already decided for the ascent.
Barbarela, stick to the last decision. You won't regret it.
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redbull14. 05. 2019 14:06:30
Domch you've exaggerated this. Best that the lady in August herself tells how the path is.
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brele14. 05. 2019 14:19:09
Hello!
Let me share my opinion and also one question. Eight years ago (I was 15) I first summited Jalovec, up over Kotovo sedlo, we descended towards Špička. The ascent remained in my memory as quite hard, mainly because of crumbly rock, on descent no problems, what stuck most in memory is precisely this ridge, which is really quite narrow, but no major problems. So boldly and with a certain measure of respect. And since eight years have passed since my last ascent of Jalovec, I also plan this summer to conquer the king of Slovenian mountains. I'm most drawn over Jalovški ozebnik, but I don't know if the path is even open (I've got very different information). And if it's open, with which other Slovenian path in Slovenia could it be compared? Thanks in advance for answers and best regards! nasmeh
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hribov.ec14. 05. 2019 14:21:32
Me (only) once more. In principle down is always more tricky than up. For various reasons. As redbull wrote.
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