| benjamin79. 02. 2011 09:18:22 |
Ha, ha, Juš, you're right! But on the other hand, I understand Sabina and Tona too. They're not role models for many young people, but as experienced mountaineers they know what that clambering is for... That they are locals who know the conditions in the mountains from childhood onwards is an extra plus for them. It's hard to be wise now and say that the only salvific climbing is the one that possibly started somewhere in an urban block, where rich parents bought all the best gear (preferably from the same brands, now we attack all couloirs, notches and other virgin walls, so we can happily announce to the public which approach we picked... The truth is always somewhere in between. Of course I agree that the helmet is basic, but I'm also not a fan of general spitting on those who enjoy it without one too. Common sense is more important, and if it's in place, it often saves more than some gear that we possibly don't even know how to use properly. A telling example is when last weekend (I think Janez) saw a mountaineer on Triglav without crampons and ice axe, but with skilled technique he coped with the conditions even better than some with full gear. Of course it can be different next time, but... Above all, let's be responsible towards life and think three times before judging.
Maybe just my example. I too was on January 20th (years ago) - directly from the bivouac towards the summit - on Kočna. Likewise years ago I literally soloed (just 4-point crampons and helmet, but without ice axes) directly from Vršič to Mala Mojstrovka. I followed a group of young climbers who then went directly into the iced-up wall, I, almost naked and barefoot, followed a middle-aged couple more to the right. But we too soon encountered an icy slab hidden under a thin layer of powder. The man managed it, but she stopped, got scared of the ice, she was on the verge of tears. But he urged her, begged her to step forward... That "torment" lasted several minutes. Then my heart started pounding too. I got scared and turned back from the exposed ledge to a slightly more comfortable snowfield. I pondered, but the next moment I searched for a snowier passage directly towards the summit. I found it a bit further right and very slowly literally rode along the wind-blown ridge to the top. The couple was already there on the summit, who had stopped earlier. I think they were quite happy. She still a bit under the impression of the icy slab, but at least outwardly more cheerful too. Then I got an interesting, certainly juicy comment: "I've never understood kamikazes. They knew they would die, but still wore helmets...". Of course it was justified aimed at my lacking gear, but I still thought: "What good is all that gear to him when he's literally forcing his wife onto the knife edge..." What or when is the right measure? Life teaches us many turnarounds, returns back. Which are really our maturations. And I believe that Sabina and Tone are very mature mountaineers. I realize that I should have turned back then too. But later I luckily did it several times. So, let's not conquer summits at any cost! Man is definitely a very limited being. Of course something (N) will always drive us higher...
And what do I do today? In winter I avoid harder routes, but instead go to Snežnik, Smrekovec, Velika planina, scenic Stegovnik, Goli vrh, maybe also to pilgrim Viševnik, Deblo peč or Zasavska Sveta gora, in summer higher up... Of course obligatorily to mass locations at times when there are no people there. Like also in summer to Triglav to overnight (or up at night, wink at the sunrise), then down when there are still no processions. And of course I wear a helmet. And safety kit. Helmet thus for both scrambling, cycling and piste skiing.
Juš, no hard feelings, your routes are worthy of all respect, just our views are and will always be a bit different - unique. And I think that's quite right.  Above all, let's protect our lives as well as the lives of our loved ones. 
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