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Begunjščica

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smatjaz12. 03. 2014 21:31:48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MU08mAZy1M&noredirect=1 velik nasmeh this one ended happily as I found out, but if there had been a ledge or rocks below then.......... eek
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Wine13. 03. 2014 08:42:44
and who knows what the conditions are like in Zeleniška gully to Begunjščica? zavijanje z očmi
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Duco13. 03. 2014 13:55:30
@Wine. Don't know about Zeleniško, but yesterday I was at the entrance to Rožičeva, which my buddy recently climbed too. There's tons of snow, so the jumps should almost be filled in. But suggest really early start, yesterday at Ljubelj it was already 5 degrees at 6am!
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Wine13. 03. 2014 15:31:52
thanks! if we climb, we'll head to the route around seven...
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garmont13. 03. 2014 17:53:42
Today up Centralna, descent Šentanski plaz. Lots of visitors, as if Sunday or some other day off.zmeden
Morning above Zelenica1
No jumps - they are filled2
The steep requires ice axe - not poles3
Below the summit4
Cream on the cake5
Wonderful views today6
Begunjščica summit already behind us7
Descent via Šentanca, which like everything else is thoroughly snow-covered8
Poetry... for the soul9
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janez.novak13. 03. 2014 22:58:00
What are the conditions on Šentanc - I mean for ascent, has it all slid already?
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garmont14. 03. 2014 05:32:16
Some debris at the top. Otherwise, early hour, golden hour.mežikanje
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sodnick14. 03. 2014 07:26:34
Yesterday my buddy and I went up late afternoon. Ascent via Y, back via Šentanc. Also in the afternoon quite a few visitors. Just a warning that on top along the ridge (from top to Šentanc) a big crack (like a crevasse) has formed and you can fall in easily. On some parts no bottom is visible, so deep. If you fall in, it could be troublesome. Obviously the south side is collapsing fast, tons of snow. Buddy fell waist-deep, it was covered by snow...
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robter14. 03. 2014 15:34:10
I too stepped with one foot inside today and barely managed to pull myself out. The crack is at least 50 m long and at least 3 m deep. One day it will slide down in an avalanche.
I only photographed from below.
on the other side of that ledge is a deep crack1
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sodnick14. 03. 2014 15:49:47
I just don't know if the south side will slide, the opast or nothing and the south side is settling more than the north....
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jurelicen14. 03. 2014 16:12:14
I'm curious if anyone has info on the length and difficulty grade of the Jesenska route in Begunjska vrtača or Begunjščica nasmeh
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robter14. 03. 2014 16:36:22
See the guidebook M.Zupan: Begunjščica.
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Keko14. 03. 2014 17:20:45
III+/2, 450 M
60/40, UIAA 5/3
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jurelicen14. 03. 2014 17:56:55
Robter, I don't have the guidebook, otherwise I wouldn't ask.
Keko, thanks.
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tagec14. 03. 2014 18:10:25
Today again lots of people at Zelenica, with Nina we turn into Y, tracks to the top made, we use right exit, just before exit we observe 2 skiers who super skied the left branch, behind them snowboarder, guys handle it, but not the group, 10min later same left branch, skier slips right away, hangs on ice axe, doesn't know self-arrest, then hand slips from loop and miraculously stops 10m lower, ice axe stays up, female snowboarder rescues it and slips... unbelievable!!! Thought rescue was needed, but somehow they managed to get down!! We exit to ridge and watch descending chaos, because that wasn't skiing! With alpinists on ridge we comment a bit on situation, this time ends happily... Don't like criticizing on forum, but this today was textbook what not to do, i.e. what experiences are!! On top quite a few people, I ski down about 300m Smokovski, crazy good around 12h, released nicely, go back up and ski central which wasn't so pleasant, shook pretty good, lower part much better... Another nice day spent in mountains..nasmeh
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janez.novak14. 03. 2014 19:14:14
robter, is the ledge in the picture above Šentanec? Is the crack before Šentanec (viewed from the summit direction), is it visible? I'm wondering if the snow on the summit is hard in the morning?
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robter14. 03. 2014 19:25:51
The ledge is above Šentanec.
The crack is more on the right side of the picture. It is visible when you get to the top, ca. 2 m from the edge.
Maybe someone photographed it, let them post it here on the forum.
I wouldn't know what the snow is like in the morning. In the couloirs it's excellent in the morning. When I was returning at 12h it was pretty south-facing.
In these conditions the saying "Early hour, golden hour" applies.
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keber114. 03. 2014 22:54:10
Evening Begunjščica is really the best.
Start at three o'clock in the afternoon1
This time choosing Šentanski plaz2
Other routes were also crowded.3
Below the top of the gully, snow frozen from the start of the gully, higher up nicely firm.4
Ice crust, higher a crevasse, looks stable.5
Crevasse6
Begunjska Vrtača7
The Vrtača.8
Summit.9
Triglav range10
Just before sunset.11
Phenomenal, and so easily accessible.12
End of the day13
14
15
Now down, the moon will light the path16
On the left still a bit of sunlight, on the right already moonlight.17
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gj15. 03. 2014 01:34:19
where is night alreadyeek
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_sandra_15. 03. 2014 13:21:24
@robter: we saw the crack today yeah..
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