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| fpetel126. 09. 2011 13:18:16 |
The path via Škrbina is in my opinion adequately secured (better than the one via Kotovo sedlo). Over the Goličica wall however there are only pitons on most of the wall. Pitons are sufficient (no problem upwards), the exposure is however great (more than via Kotovo sedlo). Also over Goličica there is danger of loose rocks on the path and falling stones
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| Irina726. 09. 2011 17:46:07 |
I agree, mainly I just want to point out that I don't recommend descent via Škrbina (especially the descent part of the path in the Goličica wall seems uncomfortable to me).
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| Loni26. 09. 2011 19:12:04 |
Well, I managed it today, pure enjoyment in silence, views... I went from Vršič straight along "the easier" one - past the hut under Špička, which is already closed. On the whole path I met only two Czechs, otherwise nobody anywhere. Next time in company.
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| mukica26. 09. 2011 19:30:07 |
Yeah for such a tour it's better in company..Congratulations
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| BOSTJAN3426. 09. 2011 20:48:55 |
I was up there yesterday with company. We went via Kotovo sedlo up and down, that's what they advised us at Jalovec summit, they don't recommend back via Škrbina because pitons are allegedly rarer. But weather was great with views. Hut under Špička closed yesterday around 12.
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| JTrogar26. 09. 2011 23:11:12 |
Yesterday, still in the dark, we parked one car in Planica; with the other, a bit cramped , we drove to the Belopeška Lakes. To the start of Via della Vita, we warmed up well despite the cold morning. The protections in the via ferrata were all OK. At the Tarvisio bivouac, we gathered again and exchanged impressions from the ferrata in the pleasant warmth of the sun rays; there were plenty of them   . This was followed by a descent of approximately 400 m below the wall of Kotovo sedlo and an ascent to it. The protections here were also good, except for one partially torn cable at the very start of the ascent. At Kotovo sedlo, there followed a somewhat longer martini time. Since we all still felt strong enough, we all continued the path upwards towards Jalovec. The path to the summit was nice, without particular features. One can enjoy a really beautiful panorama on it, especially in such nice weather as yesterday. After sunbathing on the summit and enjoying the view, we descended along the Jalovec ridge , past the entrance to the Jalovec glacier , down the interesting wall of Goličica , and over Jalovška škrbina (another longer pause) to Tamar. The hut in Tamar was as if we had reserved it just for us , since besides two others we were the only guests during our visit. We tried almost all the goodies on offer and they were all super and not too salty . We sat there so long that the setting sun on Mojstrovka started urging us to leave. This was followed by a long walk to the car in Planica, to the other one on the Italian side, and the drive home. Nice regards and safe steps from under the beautiful Golte, Janez
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| ljubitelj gora26. 09. 2011 23:25:40 |
Commendable , I'd like to add a tip: photo two is just before the ferrata entrance; better to gear up a bit earlier, as sometimes a small stone flies down.
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| CarpeDiem24727. 09. 2011 07:20:37 |
Very innovative approach to Jalovec, super! 
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| micamaca27. 09. 2011 09:20:46 |
Janez, we could hardly wait for the pics! Just reliving the great trip again Best regards from the other side of Črnivec!
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| otiv27. 09. 2011 12:35:47 |
Triglav was in readiness to "see" you on the summit. Congratulations to all the squeezed ones, considering the morning drive and further happy steps, greetings from under Golte.
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| BOSTJAN3427. 09. 2011 19:53:48 |
Hey Trogar, we met, you were entering Jalovec from Kotovo sedlo, we were exiting towards Kotovo s...
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| LidijaJesih27. 09. 2011 19:55:16 |
It was already quite shameful that I don't know Jalovec from this side, and the path belongs to the home PD . Trogar's nice description reminded me that I can fix it, so today to Tamar, over Škrbina and Goličica to the top and back via Kotovo sedlo. No snow even in traces, but scree and rollers for export instead. On the ascent it seemed the return via Goličica wall inadvisable for those with weak nerves due to exposure (technically fine, secured), but on the return via Kotovo sedlo it seemed maybe not so bad there. Newer boots with a quite hard sole maybe helped a bit, it seemed to me that they were slipping quite a bit. The cables on the return were like a sanatorium. Well, one must be careful and it goes. Met only one, but ahead of me at a safe half-hour distance the user of this portal was walking all the time, as could be seen from the logbook entries, he had just returned from southern ex-YU places. Bivouac: clean, nicely arranged, logbook already a real novel.
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| sabina.73. 10. 2011 23:43:25 |
Well, like Lidija, I have never gone to Jalovec from Tamar either. David and I climbed via Kotovo sedlo. I thought the path was harder, but it is dangerous because of people. At the start of the last part, where the wires begin, someone above me carelessly threw down quite a lot of stones and did not warn at all. I had a helmet, but still, one stone ricocheted off the rock straight into my face. My lip swelled a bit immediately, and I also have two nice scratches on my cheek, so everyone asks me what happened. I did not spot the culprit, but...... I won't preach, but it is not right. I understand that a stone can fly off, but one must warn about it. When I saw blood on my hands, I thought I would have to go back to the valley, but it was not that bad, the wounds were superficial and we continued and safely reached the summit and back to the valley. So, with Jalovec we always have a special story. That's how it is!
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| Jany4. 10. 2011 08:18:12 |
Really unpleasant experience, Sabina. I agree, the culprit should have warned about the danger. At that time it is best to hide behind some rock and wait for those above to climb the dangerous part. This year I also experienced a shower of falling rocks in a similar place as you. In my case, chamois were dislodging them, as I found out later. Anyway, caution is needed. Otherwise, I see you had a nice day. Some photos are very nice. Hope the scrapes on the cheek heal, good luck.
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| facko4. 10. 2011 11:41:51 |
When you ... hear rolling/bouncing of rocks in the mountains or a call from above "watch out rock" don't look where and how but immediately hug as close as possible to the ground/wall and wait for the danger to pass ... Recently I got a good hit ...   
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| VanSims4. 10. 2011 12:05:52 |
'It's okay if I dislodge some rocks' or 'It's okay if I kick some gravel on the leader on the via ferrata' or 'It's okay if my dog's turd jumps around freely'. The mentality of such brainless paupers, which unfortunately everyone quietly tolerates, is the same.
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| sabina.74. 10. 2011 22:29:02 |
Thanks Jani, despite the mishap it was a nice day... the scrapes won't heal quickly either... looks like someone nicely scratched my cheeks. Facko, experiences teach! VanSims, we fully agree. Anyway, we coexist with such people on planet Earth and there are many of them.
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| gregorb13. 10. 2011 07:49:52 |
Hi, on Saturday we're heading to Jalovec and I'm wondering if anyone knows what the conditions are like up there and along the path (snow...) or which hut I should call for the best info? thanks
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| viharnik13. 10. 2011 08:17:14 |
It'll be tough! I wouldn't tackle it in current conditions, even with full winter gear .
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| frnikola13. 10. 2011 23:12:50 |
I see that people don't follow weather conditions at all. Anyone who goes to the mountains should at least keep an eye on the weather conditions with one eye. Just for info, in the last days there was mostly a temperature inversion and the snow has mostly gone, anyway there wasn't much of it. Maybe it still lies somewhere in a very shady spot, the rest is snow-free. For the weekend it looks like it will be quite cold in the mountains, so some snow patch will be the least problem. Dress warmly for minus temperatures and that's it.
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