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Jalovec

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dprapr1. 07. 2013 10:51:38
In what way should the path be closed? There has never been any secured path there!
Logically it would be if on the sign it said that this approach due to friability and falling rocks is not recommended in summer time.
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Daaam1. 07. 2013 10:56:57
..as far as I know it was marked... and it should still be drawn on some older maps.. (there is a possibility that I'm wrong).. let the one who knows more about it correct me..

quote from Austrian hikers
On the map they saw that the path leads also through Ozebnik, however on the lower sign it says that the path is closed, but unfortunately only in Slovenian,

link:
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/80898/

and also a quote from Wikipedia:
The marked path through Jalovec ozebnik is closed, however still marked on older maps.

http://sl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jalovec
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dprapr1. 07. 2013 11:09:01
I mentioned secured path, not marked! Decades ago the couloir was usually in snow even in late autumn. Not like recent years when there is just rubble and scree. Maybe this year something different when there is more snow. But I don't remember noticing any peg or loop in the couloir ever!? And if the couloir is bare, it's really not safe to stay there. Falling rocks (from Jalovec roof) are anyway almost always present.
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ljubitelj gora1. 07. 2013 11:10:38
Rocks can fly down anywhere and anytime.. When someone reads this they don't decide for Ozebnik. That Ozebnik is closed only then when it's no longer fully snow-covered from previous winter and consequently going on half-bare Ozebnik is dangerous, already due to triggering rockfall and that someone gets it in their lap, gets "lost" and can't return safely anymore, rescuers have already rescued such. I know that under Jalovec summit there's a bunch of scree waiting to trigger during/after snow melting, but as I said flies down not only on Jalovec, but everywhere else. Last year's Razor eek but there no sign for warning. Yesterday Trenta-Prehodavci, those rocks like "slate" as if someone glued them with chewing gum and more and more, landslide Prisank-Hanzova, pours on marked path... Austrians close Cjajnik because of landslide even though that landslide was something between tower and Cjajnik and onto the path itself nothing poured.
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ljubitelj gora1. 07. 2013 11:14:55
dprapr: So as long as Ozebnik is snow-covered you can "easily" go up regardless of what the sign says. You two beat me a bit while I was writing the previous comment.
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dprapr1. 07. 2013 11:21:33
LG - if it says on the sign that the path is closed, it is closed!
Just commenting on the matter!
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Daaam1. 07. 2013 11:22:54
If it was marked (since it's not a condition that it (was) a secured path) and they stopped maintaining it due to objective dangers - then it seems logical to me to put up a sign that the path is closed. The mountaineering society surely doesn't intend to take responsibility for possible accidents.. Everyone decides for themselves whether to go through the couloir or not since it's not forbidden.. Where the dangers are, in principle lots of people know, for those who don't there's the sign nasmeh ..
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urbancek1. 07. 2013 11:26:18
Whether Jalovec couloir is snow-covered or not, that has nothing to do with dangerous falling objects... Temperatures are more important. It seems to me safest in deep winter with stable snow conditions. In spring, when it's already warmer, there is still plenty of snow (and according to you, as I read this, it shouldn't fall if there's snowzavijanje z očmizavijanje z očmi) and this May it was falling from walls non-stop, be it ice chunks or rocks... mežikanje
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dolenjka&primorc1. 07. 2013 11:37:20
We two also yesterday did the route to our king Jalovec via Jalovec couloir and descended to Kotovo sedlo then via scree or currently still snowfield back past the hut in Tamar to the ski jumps in Planica. Up to the very entrance into the couloir is possible even without crampons using ice axe or poles, then with crampons. Only if you're not like yesterday's hiker whom we met descending the couloir without crampons and tempting fate. He dared eek
At entrance to the wall on south side crampons are no longer needed, because path to summit is dry. On descent to Kotovo sedlo need to cross 4 snowfields (redbull cool ), where we recommend ice axe. It was nice nasmeh
...in the morning it was still shyly hiding1
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..up there :)3
:)4
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..below the cornice summit8
..view downwards9
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..view where we were wandering around Staničev dom the day before...11
..entrance into the wall on the south side..12
..from here onwards winter gear is no longer needed to the summit13
..at the summit :)14
neighboring Mangrt15
 the crag :)16
..descent to Kotovo sedlo along cables17
..first snow patch to cross on descent18
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jezičnik1. 07. 2013 13:29:01
With wife this summer (when there'll be no more snow in mountains too) we're planning ascent to Jalovec. Since all paths to it are marked as very demanding, please those who know the approaches advise me which is the easiest. We have some mountain experience already (Storžič, Skuta, Planjava, Kočna), but would rather choose the easiest among paths. As I gather from posts helmet is definitely necessary...
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dolenjka&primorc1. 07. 2013 13:54:21
From Vršič past the shelter under Špička...
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IgorZlodej1. 07. 2013 14:22:55
Without a shred of doubt from Zadnja Trenta to Špička and to the summit. From Vršič it drags like guts, and quite some height is lost too, so...zavijanje z očmi.

As for warnings about closure, it's not just falling rocks that are the problem, much more dangerous is slipping into the couloir, especially in summer when snow and ice are hidden under scree. Otherwise similar rules apply as off-trail hiking, in case of accident everyone bears their own responsibility, actually it's the same on marked and secured paths too, unless third-party liability.
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urbancek1. 07. 2013 14:28:28
Exactly so, fully agree with all written above... I also recommend from Zadnja Trenta. Regards!
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wildjj1. 07. 2013 19:25:35
From Vršič it's not that devilishly long either, plus nice viewsnasmeh)
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tslok12. 07. 2013 09:25:36
Hello. I'm interested how it is with snow on Jalovec and which approach would best avoid the snow?
thanks
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ljubitelj gora2. 07. 2013 13:43:10
If it helps you, photo 30.6 south side. Not yet snow-free.
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dolenjka&primorc2. 07. 2013 15:18:22
Currently you can't avoid snow on any route ...
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urbancek5. 07. 2013 18:53:33
Today before five in the morning I park at Velikanka in Planica. Day slowly breaks, the path through the rain-soaked valley passes as if in a blink. At Dom v Tamarju I gaze at Jalovec in morning light and continue towards Kotovo sedlo. Since the path was damp, a bit more caution wasn't superfluous. From Kotovo sedlo I continue towards Jalovec. Soon thereafter I had to cross the first snowfield, several more crossings followed. With putting on and off crampons (on straps) I delayed myself quite a bitjezik, then at some spots I needed to make a couple of steps with ice axe for safe crossing of steep snowfield where cables were properly under it. I decided not to go over snowfield there (poor rigidity of crampon-boot system and large frozen steepness) and bypassed all on the right as I knew I could join marked path up there. Then followed just a couple less dangerous snowfields and summit was reachednasmeh. For early hour I was rewarded even with some viewsnasmeh. Weather then started worsening but as seen from valley later no issue. Returned same way. Lp!
It always enchants me :)1
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Towards Kotovo sedlo, the weather will obviously be good...4
Here it blew quite strongly5
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First snow patch before entering the protected section7
On the summits it was quite windy in the morning8
Summit9
View downwards10
:)11
Last larger snow patch below the summit (photographed it only on the way back)12
From another perspective as well13
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View during the descent15
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Up and down I climbed this terrain and avoided the most annoying snow patch17
This snow patch from afar...18
Neighbor :)19
This is the snow patch which I circled on the right20
Maybe it would even be possible under it, but who knows how it could end...21
For crossing I carved steps for myself22
The neighbor has classically put on a cap :)23
On the return24
And even when I was already down below...25
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tslok16. 07. 2013 10:36:28
Yesterday I was on Jalovec from the rear tente, past Zavetišče pod Špičkom. On the path you need to cross still 2 snowfields, so still can't go without using ice axe.
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muša9. 07. 2013 14:11:29
6.7.2013 we led a club tour to Jalovec. From Tamar to Kotovo sedlo - summit - descent to Špičko and to Soča source. My predecessors already more or less described here that from Kotovo sedlo to summit and down to Jezerc there are some snow patches.

I warn not to go on the tour without crampons and ice axe, because you must not slip on these snow patches.

At one spot we also set up a fixed rope, so caution is advised.

p.s.
for those who neglect to bring hat and gloves in gear, from Kotovo sedlo to summit conditions were wintry.....

good luck, vpzs Muša

more pics on fb, marjan kastelic-muša
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