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Jalovec

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redbull1. 05. 2014 09:58:50
Is there still any snow left over the chimney, or is it all clear?
thanks

D
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JanezKog5. 05. 2014 15:59:02
This morning at the summit. Weather and conditions excellent. In the chimney there's snow and some ice, the question is how fast it will melt.
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K88. 05. 2014 19:27:18
Does anyone have info what the path from Tamar to the bivouac under Kotovo sedlo is like now? Winter gear, of course!... and other conditions? Thanks
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Janez Seliškar8. 05. 2014 20:17:57
Already at Dom v Tamarju there is cca 0.5 m of snow. Then there is even more. Early in the morning it still holds, then it all becomes soft.
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redbull8. 05. 2014 20:47:00
e.g. on Tuesday it was hard as concrete in the morning, but now it's probably different, there's a bit more thawing. For info or awareness also this: The chimney is open, so the ascent is no longer safe, except cramponing on the rock. The marked path isn't safe either, because the snow will start thundering down any time. But next week it'll be interesting, low temperatures and some new snow.

lp

D
Dad on the summit 2645m1
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K88. 05. 2014 20:50:02
Thanks. I'm more interested in the difficulty itself in these conditions, because I don't know the path. Just fighting with snow and steepness, "scree" is no problem. Is there any serious exposure on the path?
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K88. 05. 2014 20:52:37
Now I've seen also redbull's opinion and it's clearer nasmeh
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Janez Seliškar8. 05. 2014 21:00:56
Currently it's pointless to go to Bivak pod Kotovim sedlom along the "summer path". Much easier and safer is towards Jalovčev ozebnik. At a suitable place we turn right and via a moderately steep snowfield reach the flat area where the bivouac stands.
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redbull8. 05. 2014 21:04:59
To Kotovo sedlo shouldn't be a problem, just as Janez said - straight up, before ozebnik to the right, and a bit more to the right and you'll be at the bivouac. If a bit more sinking doesn't bother you, then boldly on the trailnasmeh
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K88. 05. 2014 21:07:26
Then I'll partially follow this route, thanks. I'm used to sinking nasmeh Pictures will follow shortly nasmeh

http://www.hribi.net/izlet/dom_v_tamarju_bivak_pod_kotovim_sedlom_/1/723/1302
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MANGRT15. 06. 2014 21:27:36
In ideal snow conditions today through Ozebnik to the summit. Low clouds accompanied me all the way, before the summit also wind in strong gusts. Descent in the ascent direction.

About conditions: snow compact all the way to the traverse where the path from Trenta joins, from there bare ground, only two short snowfields under the summit.
entrance to Ozebnik1
the sun appears before the summit2
Jalovec summit3
Mangart4
ridge snowfield before the summit5
snapshot6
traverse above the lakelets7
natural artwork8
towards the valley9
summer season is still far away10
11
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lijaneja16. 06. 2014 08:37:26
Ozebnik, ozebnik, ozebnik. On May 7, 2011, I survived shelling and finally decided to end spring visits to Jalovec via ozebnik. Mangrt, judging by the photo you'd be in double danger, as due to fog you couldn't check if something was approaching you on the snow. (you can't dodge an air projectile, helmet is in these cases a big joke and really minimally serves the purpose)
Therefore only in hard winter via this direction, when the sun above ozebnik (Jalovec, Goličica) doesn't melt the snow and rocks stay nicely frozen.
Over Kotovo sedlo and Jalovec notch the path is longer and much less dangerous, but takes a bit more time.
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IgorZlodej21. 06. 2014 19:01:31
Cloudless blue sky and coolness in Loška Koritnica clears the mind. Roaring Koritnica drowns out birdsong, but only until I reach the extensive avalanche debris.

I knew the resting spot under "Štengami" would be big, I advise against it, as it will get deeper every day. Somehow I got across and continued on the trail, which is locally quite overgrown. When I reached the snow under Ozebnik I put on crampons, as the snow was solidly frozen, ice axe I had in hand anyway. I go up under the Ozebnik wall and behind Veliki Turn descend to the entrance of Loški žleb. Lots of snow, hard and very comfortable for walking. I ascend quickly, the gully narrows. Almost at the top I see the crack from afar. I was actually afraid of that, because I might not get over it and have to go back. Well, it wasn't that big, nevertheless I cut some steps in the snow and climbed almost vertically 3m on the right, to the top of the gully wasn't far then. Above Jezerca opens a nice view of the Trentarske mountains. I continue to the end of the snowfields, then take off crampons, as it's bare to the ridge, and further on. Only where the path joins from Kotovo sedlo there's some snow, which I bypass without major issues. On the summit I'm alone, some fog crept around the peaks, but no problem, the view is very familiar.

For descent I choose the path towards Kotovo sedlo. I have to cross three gullies with snow. With crampons and ice axe of course, as it's very exposed here. At one point I leave the marked path. The upper part of the gully is rocky and quite broken. I scramble down, which is always harder than up, but then down the snow to Dolge prode much easier. Below I join the morning tracks and descend the trail to Loška Koritnica. The last part on the "zajle", which survived winter quite well, only some pegs are bent, but they were already previous years.

All paths to Jalovec are beautiful, also demanding. This one from Loška Koritnica is certainly one of the noblest. Ascent for spirit and soul.
Hunting passage Čez štenge, the final part steepens, not recommended.1
Behind Veliki Turn, view of Jalovec.2
In the Loški žleb.3
The only difficulty.4
At the exit.5
No crowd at the summit.6
No tracks, without crampons and ice axe it is not possible.7
Deep below Loška Koritnica and Log pod Mangartom.8
Let's be responsible to ourselves and have appropriate equipment with us for visits to higher mountains, even if only for a few meters.9
Descent via the gully to Dolge prode below Jalovec.10
They really are long.11
Snapshot.12
Already almost in the valley.13
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redbull21. 06. 2014 19:56:40
Hats off, nicely commented

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viharnik21. 06. 2014 20:23:19
This is already a solid, above-average and nice toursmile
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skof23. 06. 2014 18:15:57
Because insomnia drove me away yesterday, my report is only today:

Since the weather forecasts for this weekend were great, my colleague and I set off for Jalovec.

Start on Saturday evening at 10 pm from Planica through Ozebnik to Jalovec (our plan was sunrise).
After less than an hour of walking from the Tamar hut, we put on crampons and took ice axes and headed on the snow towards Ozebnik. Snow compact and firm but caution needed due to falling rocks. At the top of Ozebnik short break then along marked path towards summit. On this section snow present in 2 parts on the ridge which we scramble with help of ice axes. Reached summit at exactly 4 a.m. but cold chased us off before sunrise. Back towards Tamar along marked path through Kotovo sedlo. In this part snow in 3 gullies where without ice axe and crampons not possible (as Igor said). Descent of gully from Kotovo sedlo already a bit tricky in morning hours as first sun rays softened snow well. Further along marked path to Tamar and Planica.

Regards
Well, let's go1
A little more and it will be light2
And finally we glimpse the sun3
First crossing4
From Koto's saddle5
Towards Ozebnik6
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redbull23. 06. 2014 19:48:26
nice, congrats
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furioso6. 07. 2014 16:21:51
Hi, what are conditions like for Jalovec via shelter under Špica? Thanks.
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ajax6. 07. 2014 20:28:56
OPPOSITE TO THE CAMP!velik nasmehjezikmežikanje
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IgorZlodej7. 07. 2014 14:47:53
Similar to over Goličica.
Jalovec from Prisojnik 7.7.141
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