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Vrtača

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michael661. 04. 2014 13:48:21
Crampons from the dry scree onwards all the way up, and also ice axe in hand on descent - it would have been quite a crisis without it.
(+1)like
katja8727. 04. 2014 20:23:44
Yesterday (26.4.2014) we climbed to the top of Vrtača via couloir Y big grin

Despite the poor weather forecast, the sun shone on the summit and accompanied us down to the valley smile We met only two ski tourers.

The ascent through the couloir is demanding. Currently conditions are great, as the snow is not too icy, nor does it collapse. Making steps is not difficult, and crampons grip well.

You can view photos from the trip on the website of Planinskega društva Matica Murska Sobota: http://www.mojalbum.com/pdmaticams/20140426-vrtaca-cez-y-grapo-vzhodni-zleb/zelo-zgodaj-startamo-iz-ljubelja/21659777
Ascent through Y gully1
Ascent through Y gully2
Ascent through Y gully3
View of the big wedge on top of Vrtača4
View of the forepeak of Vrtača5
View from the top6
View of Y gully7
Descent through the Y gully8
View of the slope of Vrtača (left) and Zelenjak (right)9
View of Stol (left) and Vrtača (right)10
(+5)like
lijaneja27. 04. 2014 21:05:33
Too bad you didn't visit Palec and Zelenjak too, which are along the path, since you were early enough and the sun even showed up...
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kgregor4. 06. 2014 21:52:43
Afternoon on Vrtača, start from Ljubelj past Koča Vrtača and Dom na Zelenici. Up to the border ridge nothing special on the path, right on arrival at the ridge after steep ascent a snowfield awaits, which might be a bit tricky to cross, but doable without crampons. Along the ridge to the summit a few more snowfields, no problem crossing them, right below the summit in the last gully a short but tricky snowfield, better to bypass it from below. On the ridge and summit quite windy, despite some clouds the views were great.
Košutica and Veliki vrh Košute from the ski slope under Koča Vrtača1
Dom na Zelenici.2
Vrtača.3
View towards the border ridge.4
Nasty snowfield at the beginning of the ridge.5
Border ridge, Vrtača peak in the background.6
Snow patches on the ridge, Stol in the background7
Famous ice axe with rope8
View of the ice axe from the top of Vrtača, Stol in the background9
Stol10
Begunjščica11
View of the Košuta ridge12
(+8)like
mfilip5. 06. 2014 12:43:22
cool
(+1)like
smatjaz6. 06. 2014 10:29:37
kgregor, what equipment do you recommend for the ascent from Zelenica to the top of Begunjščica?
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kgregor6. 06. 2014 11:01:06
Hm, on the ascent to Vrtača I had ice axe and crampons in my backpack, but managed without; it's true the approach is from the south side, while to Begunjščica from Zelenica is from the north side. I'm attaching a couple of photos if they help. Still some snow, so decide yourself, personally I'd take the gear to avoid surprises. It can still stay in the backpack.
Begunjščica from path to Vrtača first time...1
...second time...2
...third time...3
...fourth time...4
...last time.5
(+5)like
smatjaz6. 06. 2014 11:57:53
Gregor, thanks smile
(+1)like
tinky7. 06. 2014 14:58:15
Before 5am from Ljubelj past the hut on Zelenica to Vrtača. Down still to the hut at Završnica spring. Near the spring Metod and I met Velkavrh, expert on alpine flowers. Snowfields on the ridge [are] no trouble, winter gear stayed in backpack. Weather great, no wind, nice in short.
our goal1
let's start then2
above Vrtača hut3
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at Može7
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Table9
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snow field17
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We went right between the wall and the snow.21
Still a few meters.22
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Middle peak27
Hut at the source of Završnica28
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Trees have knocked down the cableway, but it hasn't worked for a long time anyway33
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Two descending via Šentanc36
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(+1)like
Todi7. 06. 2014 15:51:44
I'd say finally beautiful weather for the mountains, and went with Tinky to Vrtača.
Just adding some photos.
Early at 4:421
In January we went up there anyway2
Today on Vrtača3
Zelenica, still all quiet4
Vrtača with Stol in the background.5
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Mali Gad.21
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dragon7. 06. 2014 17:15:25
Looks like you accidentally caught NLP on the fifteenth pictureeek
(+3)like
Todi7. 06. 2014 22:07:31
Bravo, I didn't notice at all, I just laughednasmeh
Good evening
(+2)like
heinz20. 06. 2014 12:52:03
Yesterday I took it from the Hut at the source of Završnica along the path through the forest leading directly to the marked path Zelenica - Stol/Vrtača. I think the latter is more suitable for descent, as scree hinders the ascent towards the top, so time-wise compared to the path over Šija saddle it doesn't represent a shortcut.
1
(+1)like
stankoju23. 06. 2014 20:53:38
We were up there on Sunday, started at the hut at the source of Završnica where we slept after Saturday's tour to Košutica, over Šija saddle to the marked path that leads from Zelenica and then to the top, where the crowd was appropriately large for nice weather and Sunday. From the top we descended unmarked path towards dry scrub and Zelenica and on to Ljubelj.
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jprim24. 06. 2014 14:22:51
Beautiful, will have to check it out, that part is really close to my heart, especially because of the flowers,
Well, yeah, and judging by the photos it's clear you're not roaming the mountain world alone anymore,nasmeh yeah you have to take the better half along. Quite serious, especially if you overnight somewhere.velik nasmehmežikanjemežikanje
Safe steps!
(+2)like
shana26. 06. 2014 21:40:49
Hi, is there still some snow up there or can it be done without crampons too, thanks...
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meta5027. 06. 2014 15:15:55
Three weeks ago there were still those small snow patches that could be bypassed without issues. Crampons weren't needed even then.
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shana29. 06. 2014 14:23:43
We went, one patch that can be bypassed without problem...
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dija7. 07. 2014 08:11:13
path from Zelenica was super, ascent from saddle just drags on and on, snow on top just a few patches (no problem)
hut on the clearing1
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(+1)like
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